According to my haynes manual for G-S reg, 1989-1998 it goes as follows,
Stage 1:- Tighten all bolts by hand until bolt heads just contact cyl. head.
Stage 2:-Tighten all bolts to 40Nm or 30lb ft.
Stage 3:-Angle tighten all bolts a further 60 degrees.
Stage 4:-Angle tighten all bolts again a further 60 degrees.
Stage 5:- M12 x 140mm bolts ONLY angle tighten a further 20 degrees.
Hope this helps everyone, sorry it seems longwinded but that is how it's written in the manual.
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New bolts are recommended, but the following applies.
For 3.8-liter engines manufactured from 1994 until 1995, the cylinder head requires multiple steps in a helical sequence to bolt properly: first to 15 foot-lbs. of torque, then to 29 foot-lbs., and finally to 37 foot-lbs.. Loosen the long bolts to between 29 and 37 foot-lbs. of torque and the short bolts to between 7 and 15 foot-lbs. of torque. Then, tighten each bolt an additional 90 degrees. The last two steps--the loosening and then the 90 degree tightening--should both be performed on each bolt before moving to the next bolt.
Torque setting Toyota Land-cruiser 80 Series 4.5 1995-98
Engine code: 1FZ-FE, 1HD.
Stage 1: 20 Nm (Start tightening bolts from center to outwards)
Stage 2: 39 Nm
Stage 3: Rotate each bolt by 90 Degrees.
Stage 4: Further rotate each bolt by 90 Degrees
start in middle and work outwards alternately ,bolt torque 80lbs and pull down if three passes ,speed key --rachet- torque wrench .although iam posting this i never use a torque wrench i go by the feel of the bolt stretching ,make sure heads have been checked and skimmed before refitting
Remove the 2 bolts holding the grab handle ( 10mm) Remove the screw holding the pull handle plastic cover and remove the cover. Use a fork and pry the panel away from the door and you will be able to pull it off. Before refitting, check all of the plastic clips that hold the panel to the door, some will have broken off. Remove them and fit them back on to the trim panel and glue them on. Refit is reverse as removal. Hope that helps
if this is a aluminum head it will be a torque to yeild. you will need brand new head bolts and a torque to yeild wrench, torque to yeild is not a set value but the stretching point of the bolt, wich a torque to yeild wrench will tell you when the bolt is starting to stretch then you stop and torque is achieved. often the starting torque is approx 30pds then you go back through with the torque to yeild wrench. if it has a cast iron head it will have a set value determined by the manufacture which on this car i do not know off hand. I hope i at least led you in the right direction
Hope this helps, from autozone site. Curt Application:
Cylinder head bolt torque sequence
front | 3 1 6 |
of | |
vehicle | 5 2 4 |
Step 1: Lightly oil cylinder bolt threads & washers
Step 2: Torque to 22 Ft/Lbs
Step 3: Torque to 51 Ft/Lbs
Step 4: Loosen all bolts 180 degrees
Step 5: Loosen all bolts 180 degrees
Step 6: Torque bolts 1 & 2 to 25 Ft/Lbs
Step 7: Torque bolts 3, 4, 5, 6 to 11 Ft/Lbs
Step 8: Turn all bolts an additional 80 to 90 degrees
Step 9: Turn all bolts an additional 80 to 90 degrees
*** CAUTION ***
engine uses Torque To Yield head bolts (TTY) that
permanently stretch during the initial installation.
New head bolts must be used when cylinder head is
replaced or re-installed to obtain proper Torque.
According to my haynes manual for Landrover 200tdi, G - S reg,1989-1998 it goes as follows,
Stage 1:- Tighten all bolts to 30lb ft or 40Nm then
Stage 2:- Angle tighten a further 60 degrees then
Stage 3:- Angle tighten a further 60 degrees again.