Question about 2000 Ford Taurus
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: 2000 ford taurus
USUALLY, the inlet to the radiator comes of the upper part of the engine and goes into the lower part of the radiator. The outlet, or return, from the radiator comes out of the upper part of the radiator and goes to the thermostat housing, also USUALLY on the upper part of the block. It's confusing cause just cause the hose connection is upper or lower on the block or radiator doesn't tell you where the lines and tubing inside is. Look at the ends of the hoses where they connect to the block. The thermostat should be under a hemispherical dome about 2 to 3 inches in diameter with a snout that the hose connects to. USUALLY the hose TO the radiator is just a snout. The thermostat housing is USUALLY up top where you can get at it. You can just call the sevice department of any Toyota dealer and they will tell you for sure. Sevice manangers love to let you know that they know more than you do. The folks at PepBoys and O'Reilly's like to show off too.
Posted on Jul 06, 2008
If you tap it in yourself, which sould be simple depending on the location, the plug will cost you a couple of dollars. You can also put in a rubber expandable plug that you can tighten with a wrench. Your local auto parts store will be able to help you decide which one would be best for you but the actual plug is very inexpensive.
Posted on Apr 18, 2009
If it's the 3.0L Vulcan Engine (OHV), the thermostat is on the driver's side of the vehicle. Follow the upper radiator hose back to a metal area with three 10mm bolts. This is the thermostat housing. Undo the bolts, and there's the thermostat. Mark the back of it with the old thermostat in it (if you get one with a jiggle valve, it'll make it easier to put the new one in because the jiggle valve needs to be on top). The thermostat and housing aren't perfectly round, so you'll have to play with it a little to get it to line up. Make sure to change the gasket. The spring side of the thermostat goes into the engine.
The water pump is in the serpentine assembly. It's the larger pulley located toward the firewall. It'll be easiest to remove the water pump if you also remove the coolant recovery tank. The water pump pulley has four 1/2" bolts that you need to take out WITH THE BELT STILL ATTACHED. I can't stress this enough. The belt will keep the pulley in place so that you can remove the bolts. Take the pulley off, then the belt. Remove the heater hose at the top and the radiator hose at the bottom. There are 12 bolts of two diameters (1/2" and 10mm if I'm not mistaken). Tap the heater hose lightly with a soft-faced mallet to break the seal with the gasket. Trash the old gasket. Replace gasket (you can also line the mating surface of the water pump with RTV Sealant, put the new gasket on the new pump, and line the other side of gasket with a second coat of RTV sealant if you want a really good seal). Install the water pump and torque to manufacturer's specs. Attach the pulley to the water pump hand tight and put the belt back on. Tighten the pulley bolts. Put the coolant recovery tank back in place. Fill with coolant, start engine, bleed and check for leaks.
To bleed cooling system: Idle the engine until the thermostat opens (you'll be able to tell bacause the upper radiator hose will be uber hot and you'll feel coolant running through this hose). Squeeze all hoses in the system that you can reach, but don't burn yourself. Stop the engine and let it cool. Open the radiator cap and squeeze the COLD upper radiator hose. You'll see some bubbles in your recovery tank. You might have to monitor your coolant level for a couple of days while the final bits of air are purged through your radiator cap (that's why it's pressurized).
Hope this helps. It's not hard, but it took me quite awhile.
Posted on Jun 27, 2009
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