Question about 2007 Jeep Compass 2.0
The check engine is flashing; the ESP light is on and a chime is continuous. While driving with the ESP on, the bakes will grap unexpectedly and engine feels like it's going to stall. I have turned off the ESP and driving the vehicle seems less problematic, but at times the engine will not have any horsepower on exceleration, and the studder occurs intermittent after about 10 minutes of driving with the ESP off. I have done many google searches on the condition, but have not found anything that clearly defines what the problem is. Can anyone here offer an opinion on what the issue is? I appreciate your response. Studdering my way home!
If your check engine light is flashing, it indicates there's a relatively serious problem detected by the ECM - continued operation is not recommended. Have you had the codes read? Not many technicians are willing to guess at what may be wrong without more information than you provided. Post your question again and state what codes you have stored in the ECM. Or you can look the codes up yourself once you know what they are. Or, (recommended solution) take it to a qualified technician and have them troubleshoot it, provide you a recommendation for repairing it, and an estimate.
Posted on Apr 06, 2017
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Think I'd consider maybe replacing IAT sensor (intake air temperature sensor) , and cleaning the IAC motor before all that. The IAT basically tells the PCM what's going on temperature wise at the intake manifold, thus if it gives same reading when engine cold & needs more fuel, as it does once engine is warmed up, then you will experience the symptoms you are experiencing now. The IAC motor can be removed and spray cleaned with throttle body cleaner, (watch your eyes & hands) as well as spray into port you remove it from, as this may not be the cause, but may contribute, but if it were me, I'd change IAT sensor first & see what happens. If your mechanics want to change your fuel pump, tell them to test fuel pressure when first started cold and symptoms would be present, then test again after engine warmed up & running good. There should be a difference, as in lower pressure when cold. If once it's warmed up & you can accelerate well down the highway and experience no cutting out or bogging down as when cold, then I don't see why they are so sure it's fuel pump because it would do it then as well?
Posted on Sep 08, 2009
Testimonial: "Thanks for bringing a new idea into the mixx. This sounds like it may be the issue as well. Your last point has been my main concern all along! thank"
I have a 2002 jeep grand cherokee Limited and Had similar problem. Found out that a wire/connection harness had gotten cut under PASSENGER seat.from seats moving back and forth. It's part of the airbag system, it tells airbag system if seatbelt is fastened and if occupant is in seat. Since the wire is broken, it can't report back to air back system and activates the light. try this, hope it helps.
Posted on Sep 18, 2009
If your steering wheel is off center, this can cause the problem. Luckily this is very easy to fix -- you can do so even if you have little to no experience working on your vehicle.
1. Park the vehicle with the wheels facing straight ahead (drift forward until you are moving in a straight line). Don't worry about the steering wheel position. 2. Locate the steering drag link -- the diagonal rod coming from the bottom of the steering arm to the top of the passenger side steering knuckle (on the axle near the tire) 3. Loosen the two bolts on the rotating adjustment collar on this link. I believe these are 13mm. 4. Rotate the collar one way about two or three turns, check the steering wheel to ensure that the "Jeep" logo is perfectly horizontal. If it's not, continue rotating the collar (or move it in the opposite direction) until the wheel is centered. 5. Tighten down the nuts on the drag link adjuster. 6. Take her for a test drive and let me know how it worked!
Posted on Sep 25, 2009
Check under drivers door sill step. There is a spice I believe the wires are red or pink in color. The splice will be wrapped in black hockey tape looking stuff. Peel the the hockey tape stuff off and you will find that this splice is corroded and not making contact anymore. You can repair this splice and your problems will be fixed. Be sure to use some good heat shrink on your repair to prevent from happening again.
Posted on Oct 13, 2009
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