Question about Ford Cars & Trucks
My 98 Ford E-150 van surges and lunges as it idles in drive. While cruising, it is not running smooth. I found some vacuum leaks, and it helped a little, but now it seems to be getting worse. It doesn't stall, but at times the idle is hauntingly low. If I don't have my foot heavy on the break, my van will lunge, lunge, lunge, as it idles in drive. It is so bad, that one could become sea sick.
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: Rough idle
I took mine in to change the plugs and they said there are four O2 sensors in the fuel mixture system and two were bad. I didn't replace them since they were a little pricey ($500 to replace both) and I have 103,000 on the car. Has very similar roughness and occasional oscillations, but no stalling. Hope this helps.
Posted on Aug 25, 2008
This make/model has a chronic problem with EGR clogging. If you have a dashboard indicator showing "check engine" most likely it is a trouble code indicating and EGR (exhaust gas recirculator) valve problem. Symptoms are rough idle, and surging and stalls.
What happens is sediments from the exaust manifold get sucked up into the valve when it opens, then stick in the valve and keep it from closing. When the valve is open when it should be closed, the engine runs very rough.
I removed my egr and then dislodged the sediment (pea-sized debris) and then re-installed the valve. Three days later, the same "check engine" and same rough idle. I must have did this at least three or four more times.
What I found that gave me a permanent solution was an aftermarket filter gasket that keeps debris from clogging. I don't remember the name of the product, but a search for "EGR filter gasket" may lead you to the product.
Install the gasket between the EGR and the exhaust manifold and you should be good to go. Note: on 1995 and newer models, disconnecting the EGR from the wiring harness (common on R&R) may require the computer to be reprogramed.
Posted on Dec 24, 2008
It is not the motor mounts causing the problem, although given the age of the vehicle they may need to be looked at. Your transmission is slipping. Check your fluid level, and check for discoloration and odor. Overfilling a transmission will also cause slipping. If you don't know when the filter and fluid were last changed, it is probably overdue. This is a really messy job that is worth paying $75-$100 to a reputable shop to let them handle. The bands will probably need to be adjusted too, which is why it is a good idea to take it to a shop. Some of them will bring the pan out to you to show you the sooty looking material at the bottom, which is perfectly normal. What to look for is large chunks of metal or clutch disc material. If you see either, start saving for a transmission rebuild. I am not sure what flashing lights and speed sensor you are talking about. Are the headlights or dash lights flickering, or is it the police car lights in your rear view mirror? If it is the first, check your connections, your alternator output, and have your battery tested. If it is the second, think of a convincing lie but be prepared to throw yourself on the mercy of the court.
Posted on Feb 13, 2009
check the swiches at the brake pedal their should be two. one for brake lights and one for transmission dump valve it prevents the engine from loading up at lower rpm. ie stoping at lights while in drive
Posted on Apr 03, 2009
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