Question about Ford Laser
Replace front wheel bearing on ford laser s.w
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
The bearings on the wheels has to be installed one way only, the rotor ring is built into the bearing and if installed the wrong way round the sensor cant pick up the wheel speed causing the ligt to be switched on in the cluster. The diagnostic equipment should pick this up as a fault once the car has been driven, it will see the sensor when you do the diagnostic if the car is standing still but once the car is moving and no signal is send from that wheel it would register a fault into the memory of the PCM that you would be able to retrieve later.
There is a way for you to test the sensor yourself by using a multimeter set on volts, you jack the vehicle up at that wheel, install a vehicle stand to support the vehicle to be safe, disconect the wheel speed sensor and probe the two wires into the sensor, spin the wheel by hand and a small amount of current will be produced meaning the the sensor is working and the wheel bearing is installed the correct way, you can also do a continuaty test on the sensor by switching the multimeter onto ohms, but be very carefull, if this sensor has three wires you cant do the continuaty test because of the integrated circuit in the sensor, the three wire sensors opperate on a voltage from 5Volt and it would be destroyed by the multimeter opperating on 9Volt.
If the continuaty test passes and the bearing is installed the correct way, the most comon fault would be a break in the wiring leading to the PCM
Hope this will be helpfull.
Posted on May 04, 2009
SOURCE: replace front wheel bearings
The bearings in your car are pressed into a hub. If the part is available as an assembly, it can be replaced that way. Generally on a front drive car:
Remove wheels and brake calipers
If it is pressed in: remove the rotors, disconnect the drive shafts and remove the steering knuckle. Then the old bearing is pressed out and the new one pressed in with a machine shop press. If the bearing is part of the hub, that will be unbolted and the new one swapped.
On a scale of 1-10 difficulty, Id rate it a strong 7
Posted on Jun 20, 2008
It's nearly impossible unless you have a good air compressor and a powerful 1/2" or larger drive impact gun.The reason is you have to remove the cv axle nut and axle out of the way before removing the bearing and hub.The axle nut requires a couple hundred foot pounds to remove.The procedure is:Jack vehicle safely off the ground,remove wheel and tire.Remove axle retaining nut.Remove balljoint nut and bolt,pry down on lower control arm,and disengage balljoint and lower arm from spindle.Now the axle can be released from the hub,but leave the other end of the axle in the trans,just set off to the side out of the way.At this point,there are two ways to change the bearing.The wheel bearing is a double roller,cartridge type with the hub containg the wheel studs,pressed into the bearing.Remove the entire spindle assembly from the suspension strut,OR leave the spindle attached to the strut,and remove the bearing and hub from the spindle.Some guys swear by taking the spindle to a press,and pressing the bearing assembly out with a bottle jack.I just use a bushing driver set,and ball peen hammer,and remove the hub from the bearing...then remove the snap ring retaing the bearing in the spindle,then drive the bearing out of the spindle with the hammer and drivers.There you have it.Reverse procedure for reassembly
Posted on Jul 11, 2008
Bearings are pressed into the hubs...much easier, faster and economical (if you don't have a press) to replace the complete bearing/hub assembly, no pressing is needed, since bearings are already pressed into the new hubs. Cost..aprox, 60 buxs each.
Here are the steps for the rear replacement...
Loosen the lug nuts on a rear wheel. 2) Chock the wheels and jack the rear of the car on the side with the lug nuts that you just loosened. 3) Remove the wheel by removing the lug nuts. 4) Pry open the dust cap covering the center of the axle/spindle. A small screwdriver tapped into the space between the hub and dust cap will work well for this. 5) With the dust cap now removed, use a thin center punch to straighten the little dent in the rim of the spindle nut so that you will be able to turn it freely in the next step. 6) Use a 32mm socket and a large breaker-bar to loosen the spindle nut. Unscrew the nut all the way and place it in a clean, safe area. 7) You should now be able to slide the hub/bearing assembly from the shaft. 8) Installation is the reverse of removal. Use plenty of high-temperature wheel bearing grease on all surfaces before you mount the replacement hub assembly.
IMPORTANT: Torque the spindle nut to 134 ft/lbs....(per manual specs)
When reinstalling the dust caps, tap them gently into place to avoid denting them...Install wheels, jack her down and pat yourself on the back...job complete.
Good luck..hope this will fixya up...please take time to leave me a fixya rateing...
Posted on May 23, 2009
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