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1999 Jeep Grand Cherokee has a stuck lifter how do you fix it or do you need to get a new engine?

Looking to get this jeep if we can replace the stuck lifter with out changing the motor out. Does anyone knows if this can be done?

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Here is what I would do first. Get a can of Seafoam Motor Tune. You should be able to find it at any good parts store. Wal-mart may also have it in their auto section. Add 1/2 can to the engine oil. Start the engine and let it run. If it is a stuck hydraulic lifter I have yet to have this not fix it. Once the noise is gone change the oil. Add the other half of the can to the oil and drive it unti the next oil change. If the noise does not go away I would need to know what engine you have. You should be able to replace lifter without pulling the enigine engine. Let me know if you have any questions and I'll do my best to answer them. Thank you for using!

Posted on Feb 18, 2012

  • pete05231972 Apr 12, 2012

    I used to build race engines for 9 years, and was very leary of "magic fluid" helping any engine. Well, after parking my 2000 jeep grand Cherokee with the 4.0 inline 6 cylinder overnight, I came out the next morning, started it, and heard the tap tap tap of a suspected stuck lifter. My first notion was to pull the head off and check everything. But, thanks to our economy, I haven't the funds to do so. I researched 4.0 lifter issues, and heard more than once how automatic transmission fluid acts as a detergent to unstick all that is stuck. After mulling it over for quite some time, I finally spent the 5 bucks at Walmart on their house brand ATF, and plopped it in the engine. It's not an instant fix, and you must use finesse doing this. I started it, let it idle for just under a minute, and then held it at about 2000-2500 rpm. Don't let off, no matter how weird it feels. Allow the engine temp to come up, and then go from 2k to 3k rpm intermittently. After about 5-10 minutes, it just frikkin fixes itself! I honestly did NOT think it would work, but I'm sure as hell glad it did!



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SOURCE: 1999 Jeep G C Quadra Trac keeps getting stuck in 4 wheel drive.

universal joint on the driveshaft may do this !
check transmission fluide as well.
good luck

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SOURCE: I am trying to replace the lifters on my 2002 jeep

remove valve cover. Lifters are under camshaft

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SOURCE: 1999 jeep grand cherokee all time four wheel drive will not engage

Sounds like the splines on your transfer case gear are ground down

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SOURCE: window motor replace 2001 jeep grand cherokee

You need to remove all the skrews from the door. Normaly there is one in the handle of the door, one behind the in door lach handel and one under the bump out for the arm rest on the door. Than you need to take a flat head skrew driver slowly priying the panel off. There are plastic clips on the backside of the panel it is ok if you brake a few.

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SOURCE: shift indicator light 1999 Jeep Grand Cherokee

There are two parts to it, a voltage resistor, and the EL panel itself.

You need to remove the console first. There are 2 screws under the front rubber pad, two under the cup holder, two in the bin. Remove those six first, take the storage bin out, then slide the rear cupholder out, remove the two screws under the cup holder, and one in front of it.

There are a total of 6 flat screws, and 3 self tapping screws you have removed.

Put the parking brake on, shift the tranny to N, and the transfer case to the middle position if equipped.

Remove the entire console. Slide the shifter beezel as far up vertically as you can. There are 4 clips you ned to remove to do it.
You will see a blue and black wire running into the back. Follow those wires to the resistor. You will see a transparent EL panel attatched to the resistor by two clips.

Usually, one or both of these clips has come loose, causing the light to work intermittantly. Clip them back on, and turn on the headlights to confirm that the light works correctly now.

Re-install everything in the opposite order.

Posted on Oct 11, 2009

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1999 jeep Grand cherokee

If you have a connecting rod problem, likely it is not the rod itself that has failed, rather, the crankshaft bearing on that rod or the wristpin. Usually though when either has failed, the knocking is an all the time thing, varying with engine rpm. A good tech can usually tell the difference between the two just by listening. A beraing failure is generally also accompanied by a drop in engine oil pressure as well. not so for a wristpin. An intermittent noise (tapping) can also indicate a valve lifter problem... though a lifter can also make noise during a low oil pressure situation. Lifter noise is heard from the top of the engine, both other noises are from underneath.
I would first have a different shop give you a second opinion. If it turns out to be a rod bearing, generally this damages the crankshaft and also sends bearing material throughout the entire engine. To properly repair would require complete teardown and rebuild, or replacement of engine. This does not hold true for lifter or wristpin problems, unless severe, though either can be expensive, even if you do the job yourself..
How long is your powertrain warranty?
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