Question about Cars & Trucks
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: rear wheel bearing
SECTION 205-02B: Rear Drive Axle/Differential — Ford 8.8-Inch Ring Gear
2003 Mustang Workshop Manual
Remove the U-washer (4N237).
Carefully remove the rear brake anti-lock sensor. For additional information, refer to Section 206-09A .
Remove the axle shaft.
Rear Wheel Bearing and Axle Shaft Oil Seal Removal
Using the special tools, remove the rear wheel bearing and wheel bearing oil seal.
Install the two axle shafts.
Install the U-washer.
Install the differential pinion shaft.
Posted on Apr 10, 2009
SOURCE: wheel bearings
the wheel bearin and hub is one . the bearin is press in . some times it just easer to change the hole thing .and you will have to disconect the tierod upper and lower ball joint . i hope this help you
Posted on Apr 05, 2009
Bearings are pressed into the hubs...much easier, faster and economical (if you don't have a press) to replace the complete bearing/hub assembly, no pressing is needed, since bearings are already pressed into the new hubs. Cost..aprox, 60 buxs each.
Here are the steps for the rear replacement...
Loosen the lug nuts on a rear wheel. 2) Chock the wheels and jack the rear of the car on the side with the lug nuts that you just loosened. 3) Remove the wheel by removing the lug nuts. 4) Pry open the dust cap covering the center of the axle/spindle. A small screwdriver tapped into the space between the hub and dust cap will work well for this. 5) With the dust cap now removed, use a thin center punch to straighten the little dent in the rim of the spindle nut so that you will be able to turn it freely in the next step. 6) Use a 32mm socket and a large breaker-bar to loosen the spindle nut. Unscrew the nut all the way and place it in a clean, safe area. 7) You should now be able to slide the hub/bearing assembly from the shaft. 8) Installation is the reverse of removal. Use plenty of high-temperature wheel bearing grease on all surfaces before you mount the replacement hub assembly.
IMPORTANT: Torque the spindle nut to 134 ft/lbs....(per manual specs)
When reinstalling the dust caps, tap them gently into place to avoid denting them...Install wheels, jack her down and pat yourself on the back...job complete.
Good luck..hope this will fixya up...please take time to leave me a fixya rateing...
Posted on May 23, 2009
Remove the wheelcover.Loose but do not remove the lugnuts on the wheel. Jack up the vehicle enough to free that wheel from the surface it is on. Place a small jackstand or some wood blocks under the chassis to be safe. Remove the lugnuts and wheel and set them aside together.In the center is the wheel bearing hubcap, remove this by pry all around the edges with a large flathead screwdriver. place the cap, AND, all parts that you remove on a clean piece of cardboard. Next youll see a cotter pin, bend and remove this with a heavy set of cutting pliers, it is not necessary to use a new cotter pin although it is recommended. Under the cotter is a castlated nut that allows for keeping the wheelbearing nut a the correct tension. This will just lift off. You will then remove the wheel bearing retaining nut, this "should" be be quite simple to remove fro it is only tensioned enough to remove any play in the hub assembly. Next remove the caliped mount from the rear side of the brake guard plate, there will be two large bolts probably 17mm or 19mm, you'll be able to figure that out for yourself. After removing the mount slide the entire hub off the spindle, taking care not to let the outer wheel bearing fall from it's housing. Lay the assembly across two short pieces of 2X4, take out the outer wheel bearing and place it on the cardboard. Take note, also that the smaller diameter of the bearings face inward from the front and from the rear.Take a block of 1 inch X12 inch piece of wood or a wooden hammer handle and slip it into the opening until you feel a resistance, when you do strike the hammer head with your hand, this will pop out the rear bearing and seal (make sure they land on something clean if you plan to reuse them. Now it gets a little tricky. Take a foot long steel punch with a 1/4 inch diameter head(flat) and in a clockwise moyion strike the punch with abrupt but equal hits until you've driven out the bottom bearing race. Flip it over and do the same for the outer race.Clean the hub assy. completely. Next take a brass drift punch and after setting the bearing race with the thinner side out, hold it with your hand and start tapping in a circular motion until the race is "fully" seated on the shoulder provided.Repeat this procedure for the outer race. Wipe about a golfball size glob of bearing grease around the inner bore between the two races, this is purely to protect the hhub from unnecessary rust.Pack your new bearings with grease. Place the inner bearing into the race and lock the seal into its spot again with a light circular tapping motion until it is seated flush with the hub surface. Take ahand full of clean grease and spread it over the wheel hub spindle. Slide the assy. on and place the outer bearing onto the assy. place the large flat washer onto the bearing and then screww the tensioning nut on by hand until it stops. At this point you want to take a 10 inch adjusable wrench and tighten don the bearing slighty and easily until it stops, then back it off about a third of a turn and using the weight of the wrench handle as a guage just let it fall into place a couple times. This has proven over the decades to be the most precise way to correctly tighten the assy. Follow these previously given steps very carefully, and you'll do an ace job. At any point "NEVER" apply more pressure to the assy. than I have explained.Replace the castlelated nut by putting it in serveral different clock positions until the hole for the cotter pin is open on both ends. aplly the new cotter pin, hubcap and disk brake mount assy. You know the rest!!! Best of luck, Dana
Posted on Aug 29, 2009
Tips for a great answer:
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Before raising the rear of your Honda, remove the dust cup from the center of the brake drums using a hammer and chisel. This will give you access to the spindle nut, which you can loosen using an axle nut socket. Then you can raise and remove the wheel/tire assembly ,or assemblies if you are replacing the bearings on both wheels.
If your Honda model is equipped with rear disc brakes, remove the brake disc retaining screws, the brake hose bracket from the steering knuckle and caliper bracket mounting bolts. Hang the caliper to the coil spring using wire. Do not let the caliper hang free or the brake hose may be damaged.
At this point, you will be able to remove the brake disc by hand. However, rust may have a firm grip on the disc. If this is the case, use a couple of 8-by-1.25 mm bolts and screw them evenly into the brake disc threaded holes. This will push the disc off the hub. Now you can finish removing the spindle nut and hub/wheel bearing assembly and install the new hub/wheel bearing assembly using a new spindle nut
If your Honda Civic comes equipped with rear brake drums, remove the center grease cup and loosen the axle spindle nut using an axle nut socket. After raising and removing the wheel/tire assembly, finish removing the axle nut and washer.
You might be able to remove the outer wheel bearing from the spindle using a screwdriver. If not, wiggle the brake drum as you pull on it to let the bearing fall off the spindle. However, the brake drum might be caught in place by the brake shoes. In this case, you can retract the brake shoes through the hole in the back of the backing plate.
Remove the rubber plug from the back of the backing plate. Then rotate the star wheel on the adjusting screw using a brake adjusting tool as you push the lever off the start wheel with a screwdriver. With the brake shoes off the brake drum, pull the brake drum off the wheel assembly. Then clean the brake assembly with brake parts cleaner and a clean, lint-free towel.
Now you can set the brake drum on a workbench or hard surface and remove the grease seal and inner wheel bearing. The inner and outer wheel-bearing races can be removed using a drift punch and hammer. Pack the new wheel bearings with high-temperature wheel-bearing grease using a wheel-bearing packer and use a new grease seal during installation. Also, before reinstalling the brake drum, apply a thick coat of wheel-bearing grease to the cavity inside the hub, but do not fill it completely.
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