Question about Ford Econoline

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Ford truck idles fine but sputters and dies when gas is increased

Starts fine, idles fine, but but sputters and dies when accelerator is pressed

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I have a 1989ford econoline motor home I live in Victoria Australia the problem I have is that it runs on gas and petrol there is a part that fits on air hoses from carnie to air cleaner it looks like a set of burn oculars 2hoses fit in one endadnd 2hoses at the other end we can not find the part any where in Australia

Posted on Jul 15, 2012

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6ya6ya
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: truck will not idle

Nicole,
first check to be sure the fuel filter from the gas tank which feeds into the fuel pump isn't restricting fuel flow, replace if needed (its under where you fill the gas tank in front of the right rear tire, you may find it easier to remove the protective bracket for access). Place the hose end from the pump going to the engine(crawl underneath and look for steel line heading to the front of the car on inside frame rail) into a glass jar and have a friend turn the key part way to turn on the pump, only for a couple of seconds without starting engine and wear eye protection and work from outside of the truck, you should see a strong flow. If that is all good, check the small fuel filter that is located in the carburetor where the fuel line attaches.This is located on the front (assuming 2.4 4 cyl.) of the carb. Disconnect the battery negative cable. Remove the air cleaner and take careful note of the vacuum lines connected to the unit, you will have to loosen 4 breather type hoses as well as the air intake line and the exhaust pre-heater, use a variety of Phillip heads screwdrivers at different lengths (a stubby and extra long help a lot).Place a cloth over the carb butterfly so you don't drop anything into it.Loosen the clamps that hold on the (two?) intermediate flexible fuel line below carb, it will need to be able to move up to get the fuel line connector off. Remove the locking bracket holding the 5 sides of the fuel line bolt head which prevents loosening of the fuel line connection, note the location of the brackets hold down screw to use as a guide for reinstalling, you may need to give the hold down bracket screw a sharp wrap with a hammer and screwdriver and/or penetrating oil to help break it loose, use the largest screwdriver you can and do not strip out the head. Scribe a reference line on top of the connector bolt to aid in reinstallation, use a socket wrench for removal. You will notice a slight cut out(circular) in the rim of the Carb above the fuel line that allows for removal. Carefully pull up and angle toward you with a gentle rocking motion to get it out. Go slowly and don't force it or you will break the fuel filter inside which is a dime size plastic cylinder with a fine mesh screen, take your time, it can be done!. Once out, carefully clean the screen without ripping or placing a hole in it, I use a jewelers screwdriver (a cuticle tool would be better) keeping parallel with the screen and then wash out with gas. You will need to clean the 8 surfaces of the connection(2 washers for 4 sides, 2 sides of connector, base and bolt head) before replacement. Do not use metal to clean, only things like scotch bright pads or you could scratch the surfaces causing a leak that would result in an engine fire! Tighten back down firmly, it may make a creaking sound when you're close, check for the scribe mark you made aligning as before and check to see if the lock down bracket will go back on as before removal, fine tune to fit. You don't want to damage the bolt or the threads in the carb so a drop of oil on the bolt threads is a good idea. Tighten down locking bracket. Reconnect battery cable. Turn on the ignition far enough to start the fuel pump but don't crank the motor, do it two or three times. Check for fuel leakage at the connection. If dry, replace the air cleaner and tighten all large hoses and vacuum lines (look around, you can accidentally disconnect things far away from the air cleaner housing). It's a pain in the rear, but, you'll get it. Next, with fire extinguisher on hand, block off a tire on both sides, set E-Brake, put in neutral, foot on brake start the engine and immeadiatly check for fuel leakage using a flashlight, its hidden from view under the air cleaner. Run the motor for awhile and keep checking for fuel leakage. If you don't see any run the motor at varying speeds and recheck for leakage. You're probably good if it passes the first test, but, better safe than sorry. Drive a short distance and recheck for fuel leakage. Good luck!

Posted on Apr 07, 2009

  • 20 Answers

SOURCE: Van Sputters And Loses All Power When I Accelerate

Internal combustion engines requires 3 things... fuel, air, and spark. You do not have enough of one or more of these. If the wires and plugs are old, change them.  Air filter, same thing.  Fuel filter can also clog up with stuff after awhile. When you take a look at the air filter check where the air comes from.  It is possible a little critter has built a home and blocked the air flow (rare, but, it has happened).

Posted on May 10, 2009

wyatt1582
  • 453 Answers

SOURCE: 1997 Ford Escort dies/sputters during acceleration...

How many miles on car? It could be fuel pump and or alernator or both.

Posted on Jul 04, 2009

  • 73 Answers

SOURCE: My 99 ford explorer cuts out and dies when accelerating in drive

You may have dirty or clogged fuel injectors, may also be problems with the ignition system. Might also check the fuel pressure to make sure the fuel pump is working correctly.

Posted on Mar 28, 2010

  • 123 Answers

SOURCE: 1998 Ford F-150 4.2 V6 starts and idles fine ibut bogs when step

i had a van do this same thing to a tee turned out to be a broken key pin in the harmonic balencer causing the timing to ****** replaced balencer and ran like a dream there is a crank sensor grid on the balencer when the key pin broke it trew the timing off

Posted on Jan 14, 2011

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