Question about 2001 Kia Spectra
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: back brakes kia spectra 2007
My name is Dennis and I hope to be of assistance.
I have to assume that you are trying to get the piston to retract into the caliper while trying to put new pads on a disc brake. When the pads are worn down the piston is nearly out of the cylinder of the caliper and when you try to get the piston to go back into the caliper it can **** slightly in the bore of the caliper. Center a "C" clamp in the piston and carefully screw the clamp closed pushing the piston back into the bore. While this is taking place the brake fluid is being forced back int the master cylinder and the going will be slower than you think it should be. Just be aware that you are trying not **** the short stubby piston in it bore as you force it to retract to allow you to put the thicker pads in place.
Glad to be of assistance. Please rate the solution I can learn from your rating.
Posted on Nov 09, 2008
Hi. Check first if bulbs are busted. usually brake lights are double contact bulbs. Meaning when you turn the lights on the steering wheel into park position the first contact of the bulb will light up that is why your have the tail light on at the back. Now when you hit the brakes that is when the brake light will come up. Try to switch to the lights to park position and check if you have your park light on. If nothing shows up at the back of the car then you need to replace the bulbs. One more thing is you may check also the fuse of the tail/brake light in your fuse box. Fuse might be busted also that is why you are getting this problem.
All the best!
Posted on Aug 14, 2010
Since you are asking to bleed the hydraulic line, I think I'm safe to assume you're at least mechanically inclined and have a general understanding of how this system works in your car.
There is a bleeder valve located on the clutch slave cylinder, which is mounted on the top of the transmission. It will require a 10mm CLOSED-END wrench. If you use an open ended wrench, it's likely to strip the bleeder valve screw, which in turn might keep you from tightening it completely. This will allow air to bleed into the system, which will cause your clutch friction plate to wear out early, or might rupture the line. The latter of which being more unlikely.
Back on topic: Get a friend to help you. With the bleeder valve closed, pump the clutch pedal a few (3-4) times, then hold it to the floor. While it's held down, loosen the bleeder screw until either air or fluid comes out. Allow it to drain only a second or two, then tighten the bleeder screw back down. Only AFTER the bleeder screw is tightened does your friend release the clutch pedal. Repeat as necessary, being careful to keep an eye on your brake and clutch fluid reservoir.
If there is air in the line, you should hear it blowing out, see bubbles, or an inconsistent flow of fluid (it will come out in spurts) . If it's only fluid coming out, it's possible that there's no air in the line but to be 100% safe, keep doing this until you've cycled fluid through the entire clutch system, and do NOT allow the fluid reservoir to get below the MIN mark, or you'll just be pumping air back into it.
P.S.) Yes, your clutch and brakes piggyback off the same fluid reservoir in that particular car.
Posted on Dec 21, 2010
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