How to remove trim from rear hatch door on 2001 Sienna

when you push on the rear defroster button does it light up if so then you will have to use a test light and check for broken window grid wires on the rear window. you ground one end of the test light and using the other end start at one side of the window that lights it up then follow the grid line from one side to the other at 2 inch increments, the light should light up but get dimmer as you test the length of the grid, then go to the next grid line and repeat. when the light stops lighting this is were there is a break in the grid is and needs to be repaired. you can get window grid repair kits for this.

To remove the interior trim panel from the door. Carefully pry off the plastic cover over the rear half of the inner release handle, the locking tabs are easy to break. In the bottom of the pull pocket remove the screw cover with a small screw driver or knife tip. disconnect wiring & switches. Remove any visible screws attaching trim panel to door. Insert a thick putty knife [approx. 2" wide] between plastic panel & door, slide around edge locating plastic retainers, pull outwards to pop loose. Finally lift trim panel straight up to release top lip. If the panel won't come loose in the speaker area, look for a removable cover with hidden screws. Next is the vapor barrier, it is important not to just rip holes in it. Start at the back and peel about 2/3rds of it forward. If it's attached with clear adhesive, it will need to be reglued or at least taped back in place. If it uses a sticky black or white adhesive it will restick itself when you put it back. A sharp knife or singe edge razor blade is usefull during the removal process. The window glass is unbolted from the lift/regulator assy with two small bolts. Raise or lower the glass by hand to line up with access holes, after bolt removal tape the glass in the up position. Unplug the electrical connector. Unbolt and remove regulator and motor as an assy from the door. Remove motor from assy and reverse process. If the cable regulator is broken, it is a dealer item, approx. $120.00. If the motor is bad, dealer price is around $240.00, but it should be easily available at your local parts store for much less. Labor at a qualified Autobody Repair Shop should be about 1.3 hours.

you need to replace glass or is it leaking if leaking then you have to remove upper seat belt covers pop off remove bolt 14mm and the trims on upper pillars pry off carefully held in by clips remove covers on interior light at front where sunroof switches are there are screws by bulbs disconnect connector remove center light cover and screws disconnect connector with clean hands remove rbber trim around sunroof opening and plastic cover on each side of sunroof glass held on with plastic screw clips then remove four 10mm nuts lift sunroof glass out of car remove cover and screws from rearview mirror all plastic trims around headliner move pass seat forward most and flip back rest all way down roll pass window fully down then slide headliner out of car now you can remove electrical connectors and remove water flow hoses from sunroof unit remove 8 12mm nuts holding frame to roof remove through door you will see the track sunroof slides on remove nuts along problem is silicone between track and frame is deteriorated lift track clean replace silicone reattach frame to roof dont put trims or liner in till test connect switches and glass to frame make sure sunroof works and closes fully then go through car wash to see if leak is fixed

During the restoration of our '92 Lesabre, we had an auto glass guy come out to remove & hopefully replace the same glass in the rear window section(the window trim had disintegrated and we bought new stuff to replace it with, but it wouldn't fit unless the window was removed).
What was discovered when the window was removed... was that the defroster interface on the sides of the glass was basically disconnected from the glass: the solder contact patch where the power & ground wires interfaced with the defrosting wires was corroded. It fell off once it was pulled on. In our case we had the whole rear window replaced.

What may be possible for you to do is pull back/off the rear pillar trim that covers the defrost wire & connectors and re-melt the solder with a 80-150 watt soldering iron(assuming that is where the problem is). I suppose, before buying and/or firing up the soldering iron, get the rear trim that covers the left & right edges of the rear-glass removed to find out IF the connectors & the long vertical strip they attach to are indeed attached to or detached from the glass. Oh duh, the vertical strip that the power wires connect to on either side run from top to bottom of the defroster array and are the portions that solder to the glass.

If it results in soldering, I'd suggest you use either a resin/flux core electrical solder or use a flux paste brushed over the solder contact areas & use solid electrical solder.

If I wasn't so busy with other parts of the car I would have gone after the soldering myself... but being as pre-occupied as I was that's why we opted to have the whole window(which includes the defrosting array & connectors) replaced.
I hope things work out for you regarding this... shoot me back if you need any other info/follow-up.

The main cause for the rear window not working is a disconnected wire at either side of the defroster grid. You can see where the body harness connects to the rear glass.

The second most liekly cause are broken defroster grid wires.

I would suggest to you to obtain a 12 volt DC testlamp, and check for voltage as follows, at the rear defroster.

Hook the clamp of the testlamp up to a known good ground. The back door latch 'hoop' is great. Next, turn on the rear defroster, and place the point of the tip on the extreme side of the back window, on the grid. Does it the tester light up bright? If not, try the other side.

The light, moving across the grid, should get noticeably dimmer, if the grid is functioning properly. The light will go out when you encounter a broken grid wire..

Hello.
The rear defroster isn't affected by a/c operation.
The most common issue I see in my shop is the rear grid damaged.
The wire you see in the rear glass is a resistor type conductor which builds heat as electricity passes through it. If the grid wires get scratched it is like a broken wire and will not build up heat as there is an interruption in the flow.
First thing is verify your fuses are good and the indicator light comes on when the switch is depressed.If they are OK proceed to the next check.
If you look carefully at each side of the glass there is a wire connected to the grid. If these have come loose or become corroded that is where your problem has most likely occurred.
To test it a 12 volt test light or a multimeter should light or read battery voltage applied at each side of the glass grid.
If indeed the grid is damaged there is a repair kit available to fill in the gap at your local auto supplier.
Hope this helps you with your repair.

On the inside trim, you can remove screws (these screws may be covered by filler pieces or may be visible, or they may require you pry a plastic piece off that covers the screws) that are by the door handle, arm rest, under door and side of door and then gently pull back on the panel as there will also be retaining clips attached and you don't want to break them. You'll need to lift the door panel upwards in order to get it off the window ledge. Then you'll need to manipulate the panel and disconnect the door handle linkage from the door handle and disconnect the wiring for your controls.

You most likely have a broken plastic guide on the bottom of the glass. Start by removing the switches ( pry upward from the rear of it, you will see the metal clip ) Remove the 2 attaching ( torx ) screws in the handle portion of the panel ( recessed into it ) then look inside where the switches are housed, not sure if there is another screw in this one or not, then pull off the triangle trim cap thats located at the front upper corner ( attached with a platic serrated pin and a tab that hinges over the door itself) pull it from the top, it pops off. Start by prying the trim panel pins at the lower rear corner. they can be stubborn, but they will release, and they are found around the perimiter of the door panel. when you get them all loose, lift the entire panel up to release it from the lip over the door,
After removing the panel, you will need to peel off the inner plastic sheeting, and that exposes the regulator assy. Look closely and you will see two plastic tabs attached ( should be attached0 to your window glass. I suspect one has fallen off, and will need to be epoxyed back on. We use a two-part, fast curing epoxy from the body supply warehouse, but you can do it with a good product from your hardware store. The shoes are bolted to the regulator assy with 10mm bolts ( head size, not thread size ) Clean the spot on the glass with a chemical cleaner, scrape the area with a single edge razor blade if needed to make sure its clean, apply a generous amount of well mixed epoxy, reassemble, and raise the glass all the way to the top. Leave it overnight for a good cure, and you should be good to go ! Reverse procedure to reassemble panel.....

1. Remove the phillips screw that holds the door handle trim piece (under the door handle)
   
2. Remove the phillips screw at the upper front under the small round trim cap. Pry gently around all sides of the cap, prying a little more each time.
3. Remove the arm rest by forcing it up with a screw driver. Start with the end towards the front of the car. Start prying at the front edge and next to the door panel. The arm rest has two clips (one at front edge and one about three inches back. Once the two clips are loose the arm rest flips towards you which unhooks the back two prongs.
4. Pry off the control panel. This trim piece has a metal clip that you need to press from the front edge. There is a small indent to allow a small screwdriver. Don't use a screw driver! Use a thin putty knife, but a scredriver will work. There is a lip that the knife will catch on and release the trim. The back of the trim has a fixed clip, so unless you release the front clip it ain't gonna budge! Then unplug the attached wires.
   
5. Now remove the 2 screws that appeared once the arm rest is off. I think that's all the screws. Pry the bottom of the panel away from the door starting at the bottom back corner (you will feel where there is resistance) and the plastic retaining clips will pop loose one after the other.
   
6. Your panel should now be completely loose on both sides and the bottom, held on only by the top lip (that is supposed to lift off) and the door handle trim
7. The door handle trim is a little tricky but once you know its not that hard. First of all its held it place by two clips. One is directory over the lock switch and one directly under it. Carefully pry underneath the trim in both of these location and twist the screwdriver to pop off the clips. There is still a hook clip nearer the front of the trim so to pull off the trim you have to kind of pop out the two clips while pulling towards the rear of the car since the hook clips slides out towards the rear.
8. Once that is off its just a matter of lifting the whole panel up until it unhooks from the top of the door.

There are 3 fuses that control the rear defogger, and 1 relay

The fuses are: 10 amp HEATER, 10 amp MIRROR-HEATER; under the dash
The 30 amp DEF fuse is in the fuse box under the hood
The relay is the DEFOGGER relay, which is on the back side of the fuse panel under the dash

Also, check for a loose wire on the defroster grid (on the back glass), this is the most common problem.