How to remove trim from rear hatch door on 2001 Sienna
I need to check for a loose wire on the defroster grid (on the back glass) of my 2001 Sienna. The plastic trim around the window needs to be removed to do the check. There are no screws or any obvious way to remove the trim. Is there a way to remove the trim without breaking the plastic?
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Re: How to remove trim from rear hatch door on 2001...
You need to remove the big plastic or vinyl rear hatch trim to get the side trims off. Remove the 10 mm bolt that holds the pull handle (if you have a pull handle), and then, using a flat tool, (like a stiff putty knife), insert the tool between the vinyl trim and the tailgate to loosen the plastic clips (there is like 18 of them); one the hatch panel is off, you will see that you can now remove the side trims.
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I had the same problem with my 2001 Blazer. Just remove the panel by the screws located on the side of the tailgate, the problem was a bad actuator which pulls the lever to open the glass hatch. Once you take off the panel, remove the metal shield on the tailgate and the actuator will be mounted on the back of it.
There are several ways to open the hatch on blazers and jimmys. You can try to release by inserting a small screwdriver and pushing left using the entry hole in the rear hatch deck just below the plastic trim in the center. This works ok unless the latch is out of alignment. The quicker way to release the window lock is to pull the center of the plastic trim (where it rises) toward the inside of the car and break the plastic trim attachment. Remember first to remove the hatch handle.By pulling away from the window, you can then insert a finger between the two walls of the lock assembly and push down. The window will open immediately. Ignore the broken trim attachment as there is plenty of support for the top of the door trim piece. Unbolt the 9/32 panel screws and the two phillips head side screws and the panel will come off. Careful of the rods clipped to the panel. They come off easily as does the hatch door activator. Rather than have to buy an actuator because the blue piece of plastic broke, replacements are available at online auto supply stores. Remember to make sure that the lever of the actuator hits the window release mechanism squarly. A little bending with pliers will align these two pieces so they strike evenly.
I had the same trouble and found that I had to disconnect the glass hatch switch. It is probably defective like mine. I had to release the door by going from the inside and opening a little plastic door and open the whole hatch by using the emergency lever. Then I had to unscrew the plastic panel near the glass hatch and pry it apart just enough to disconnect the glass hatch switch. It is just a small connector that pulls apart. There are two connectors. One for the back wiper and then the glass hatch so make sure you disconnect the right one. This allows me to use the whole door but the glass hatch becomes useless unless you get a new switch.
The main cause for the rear window not working is a disconnected wire at either side of the defroster grid. You can see where the body harness connects to the rear glass.
The second most liekly cause are broken defroster grid wires.
I would suggest to you to obtain a 12 volt DC testlamp, and check for voltage as follows, at the rear defroster.
Hook the clamp of the testlamp up to a known good ground. The back door latch 'hoop' is great. Next, turn on the rear defroster, and place the point of the tip on the extreme side of the back window, on the grid. Does it the tester light up bright? If not, try the other side.
The light, moving across the grid, should get noticeably dimmer, if the grid is functioning properly. The light will go out when you encounter a broken grid wire..
Hello. The rear defroster isn't affected by a/c operation. The most common issue I see in my shop is the rear grid damaged. The wire you see in the rear glass is a resistor type conductor which builds heat as electricity passes through it. If the grid wires get scratched it is like a broken wire and will not build up heat as there is an interruption in the flow. First thing is verify your fuses are good and the indicator light comes on when the switch is depressed.If they are OK proceed to the next check. If you look carefully at each side of the glass there is a wire connected to the grid. If these have come loose or become corroded that is where your problem has most likely occurred. To test it a 12 volt test light or a multimeter should light or read battery voltage applied at each side of the glass grid. If indeed the grid is damaged there is a repair kit available to fill in the gap at your local auto supplier. Hope this helps you with your repair.
check the wiring harness near the Hatch Asy for bare or broken wires, check the grid on the window for broken traces along the heat grid. There are usually one wire on each side of the grid, one is probably loose or broken
The liftgate consists of the following components:
liftgate door lock actuator
liftgate lock cylinder (if equipped)
liftgate window glass
liftgate window latch/ajar switch
liftgate window glass release handle
liftgate latch remote control which consists of the following component:
liftgate release handle
liftgate latch, which consist of the following component:
liftgate latch door ajar switch
Liftgate Latch Actuator
Removal and Installation
Remove the liftgate latch remote control. For additional information, refer to Liftgate Latch Remote Control in this section.
SECTION 501-14: Handles, Locks, Latches and Entry Systems
2001 Escape Workshop Manual
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION
Removal and Installation
Remove the liftgate trim panel.
Disconnect the liftgate ajar switch electrical connector.
Disconnect the liftgate latch actuating rod.
Open the clip.
Disconnect the actuating rod.
Remove and discard the liftgate latch bolts.
Remove the liftgate latch.
NOTE: Make sure the liftgate latch release rod is not preloading the latch. It should be clipped in a relaxed state with no slack. NOTE: Position the liftgate latch release rod by pushing outboard to remove the slack.
FRONT DEFROSTER IS VACCUM OPERATED, ON PASSENGER SIDE REMOVE PANLE TO THE CENTER CONSOLE, YOU'LL SEE A CANISTES SHAPED IN TENNIS BALS IN SECUENCE, START THERE TO CHECK FOR VACCUM PROBLEM.
REAR DEFROSTER/WIPER/WASHER ON HATCH.OPEN REAR HATCH ON DRIVER'S SIDE HINGE YOU'LL SEE A WIRING HARNES GOIN THROUGH USUALLY THAT HARNES BRAKES , LOOSING CONTACT TO ALL OF THE ELECTRICALS IN HATCH DOOR, EASY REPAIR. REMOVE HINGE GET SOMETHING TO HOLD HATC OPEN, LIKE LONG BROOM.PULL OUT HARNES AND REPAIR.GOOD LUCK
There are 3 fuses that control the rear defogger, and 1 relay
The fuses are: 10 amp HEATER, 10 amp MIRROR-HEATER; under the dash
The 30 amp DEF fuse is in the fuse box under the hood
The relay is the DEFOGGER relay, which is on the back side of the fuse panel under the dash
Also, check for a loose wire on the defroster grid (on the back glass), this is the most common problem.