I have a Ford F250 with a 7.3L diesel. When I start the engine the front brakes lock up. When I shut the engine off and remove the vacume line and check valve the wheel will then turn free. I just purchased the truck and there are 2 new calipers on the front. Whats up with this? How do I fix it?
Does the red break light come on the dash like when the park break is applied?
If so the check your proportioning valve if the truck has an abs system then the valve will be called a rabs valve.( located on the frame rail under the driver side seat) Check the break lines on the front calipers to see if they are damaged they may have been pinched so bad that they will not release. Also check to see If the master cylinder was changed , if the break lines were connected to the master cylinder incorrectly or the wrong master cylinder was installed the breaks will apply themselves…please rate this if it helped thx…
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
Jerry, Drive to a good shop. So many things can cause reduced power light unfortunately. The first step would be to get the truck hooked up to a scanner/computer and have the computer scanned for trouble codes. One thing that you could try is to drain the water from the water separator that is mounted on the frame under drivers front door. If the PCM picks up on water, power is reduced until water is removed/drained. It could be an exhaust sensor that is reading faulty. Unfortunately from here its impossible to tell you exactly what the fault is because there are just so many engine sensor inputs that could cause your problem. Check the attached links, forums,instruction and guides, Good luck
"I hope this helped you out, if so let me know by pressing the helpful button. Check out some of my other posts if you need more tips and info."
the vacume is produced by the engine not a pump if there is no vacume getting to the booster either the hos is disconnected (broken) or something is wrong with the engine..first disconnect the hose going to the booster start the engine and verify if there is suction by blocking the hose with your finger shut off the engine if there was vacume and your pedal is hard your brake booster is probably bad
the power steering pump also is connected to the brake booster and both take vaccum this is a verry common problem and sucks, the only way to fix this is to get a new power steering pump, just to have it happen again in a few years.
the problem is caused by either a failed power brake booster vacuum diaphram or a loss of vacuum to the booster, most likely the booster is defective, if this is a diesel then check the enginge driven vacuum pump.
First thing to do is engage the lock out hubs on the front axels if it has them, they should say "free" or "lock". Turn them to lock. Then inside the cab on the floor hump will be the 2H 4H N 2L slector. Pull the slector lever into 4H and you are in 4WD high range. Do not drive the truck in 4WD on dry pavement, only gravel/dirt or snow. The minor difference between the front and rear wheel speeds will "wrap up" the driveline and make it hard to pull the lever out of 4WD. It is recommended that you back the truck up at least 10 feet after you remove it from 4WD to "unwrap" the drivelines. Your choice as to disengaging the front hubs, but it will save wear and tear on the front axels and dirveshaft if you disengage.
16 to 20 at idle and 20 to 22 at the most diesels also use a auxillary pump to get the vaccum because it has no trottle there for no vaccum, might want to check that also.
sense its a deisel i would go with the vacume pump, diesels don't put out any or very little vacume, if you don't have vacume than booster won't work hense hard peddel. when you say you let up on peddel and hit it again you got better break tells me it is not getting enought vacume to booster. i would go for the vacume pump.
Adjust your rear brake shoes. Then rebleed the system. Start at the master cylinder Bleed master first then the wheel furthest away from the master (right rear then left rear then right front then left front. Do that and your pedal should be good.
×