Question about Mazda Tribute

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2001 Mazda Tribute 3.0L V6 with knocking/tapping sound. Where do I begin troubleshooting?

I have a tapping/knocking sound coming from somewhere at the top of the engine. I have been told it could be anything from a leaking airline to a lifter. I don't know where to begin troubleshooting. Any suggestions?

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  • Andrew London Feb 17, 2012

    I have a code reader and put it on but no codes tripped. I have driven it since I changed out both catalytic converters this past weekend. I will try the scanner again and see if anything trips.

  • William Feb 17, 2012

    I would get a detail view on your motor just for reference,to see whats involved,or better yet what needs to be disconnected to take off the valve cover,if you have a bent lifter this should be easy to locate,you should be able to spin the lifter between your fingers and you will know if 1 is bent will be obviuos,good thing is they are cheap,and fairly easy to change out,and you can get detail on doing this online i'm sure there is a write up on it.Best of luck hope this helps

  • William Feb 17, 2012

    SHOULD SAY -PUSH ROD

  • Andrew London Feb 17, 2012

    Sounds good, I have the Haynes manual so I will take a look at it this weekend. Thank you very much.

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Quit truthfully i would take advantage of [free] go to auto zone or anywhere they scan for free and see what code the ECM,OR PCM is giving and they should be able to tell you right there what that diagnostic code means,they should be able to point you in the right direction,if they can't go online and do some homework on that code.Hope this helps

Posted on Feb 17, 2012

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: sparkplugs are due for replacement mazda tribute v6

Get all your tools ready and a few styrofoam cups to keep the bolts organized and labeled for re-assembly. Have a pencil and tablet handy for notes while doing the take-down. Forgive me if I can't name all the parts. I'm not a mechanic but I was able to successfully replace all six plugs. The key is to keep track of each part you pull & replace it in the reverse order. Number the cups with a marker 1,2,3,4,5.

You'll need a metric socket set,
a spark plug socket and a deep 8mm socket
A flat/slot bladed screw driver will also be handy.
A roll of tape to use as labels

In short, here are the abbreviated steps:
Disconnect the battery
Remove the engine cowling
Disconnect the throttle cable(s)
Remove the ribbed air intake hose
Disconnect the two black wire sockets on the throttle intake
Disconnect the two wire sockets at the top-left of the engine
Disconnect the three hoses in the back/center
Disconnect the solid pipe (saucer on top) on the right side of the manifold
Disconnect the instrument which is behind the solid pipe/saucer
Disconnect one hose from just in front of the master cylinder (brake fluid reservoir)
Remove four long screws at the corners of the manifold
Loosen eight screws keeping the manifold in place (these are captive)
Remove the manifold
Remove each screw holding the spark plug caps in place
Remove each of the spark plug caps
Remove and replace each of the spark plugs

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Now the more descriptive version:
Disconnect the positive terminal on the battery and set it off to the side. This is primarily for safety reasons.

Remove the three nuts from the cowling, pull it and set it aside with the three nuts in cup#1. You'll see the three forward spark plug caps now but WAIT until you have the back three also viewable.

Find the throttle cable(s) on the top and the throttle itself with a circular spring. Rotate it counter-clockwise to slacken the cable and disconnect it, and the secondary line/cable it is attached to. I don't know what the heck it is but it's plastic so be careful not to snap it. Remove the three screws keeping the throttle cables attached to the manifold and keep them in cup#2. There is one short gold colored screw on the left bracket and two longer silver colored screws on the right bracket. Flip the throttle cable up and to the left to get it out of the way.

Next, pull the ribbed air intake hose by loosening both the screw clamps and pop-out the sensor line on the top of the hose
Pull the larger end down and rotate it toward you to remove. Again, set it safely aside.

Since the ribbed hose is near the throttle body, go ahead and disconnect the two wire sockets from the throttle body. They'll be immediately to the left of where the ribbed intake hose attaches. These are easy to access when the intake hose is off but tricky while it's still installed.

Disconnect the two wire plug sockets (one black, one gray) at the top-left of the manifold. Once the sockets are separated, use the flat screw driver to pry/nudge the plastic retainers from the holes keeping the sockets attached to the manifold. Otherwise they'll snag when pulling the manifold.

Disconnect the three hoses on the rear-center of the manifold and label these with a piece of tape as L-C-R. One each for Left, Center, Right.

Disconnect the solid pipe (looks like a saucer on top) on the right side of the manifold by removing the two bolts keeping it's bracket in place. Keep the bolts in cup#3. The Pipe will pull slightly away from the manifold but you will NOT be able to completely pull it out. It will stay in place and you'll eventually see the total length after the manifold comes off. There is also a small gasket around the pipe; leave it in place and tape it down for safekeeping while you're working. Remove the tape when you're reassembling.

Disconnect the instrument behind the solid pipe. (Sorry, I don't know what it's called) First remove the front bracket bolt and put it in cup#4. The rear bolt is a combination set and is a little tricky. Remove the outward nut first and again use cup#4. Next use a deep metric socket to remove the remainder of the bolt and use cup#4. Basically this is a bolt with a permanent nut in the middle and uses a second nut on the end to retain two different parts. You'll see what I mean. This keeps 3 pieces in cup#4 but they all go to the same place.

Next, look to the top-right of the engine and find the master cylinder. (This is where you would add brake fluid if needed). You'll see a hose running from just in front of this area (NOT on the master cylinder itself) down to the manifold with a plastic clip on top keeping it attached. Depress the clip and disconnect the hose.

Now you're finally ready to tackle the intake manifold itself. There are 12 bolts keeping this in place (8 short captive bolts that won't come off, and 4 long bolts with small captive washers).
Look around the manifold top and locate the bolt heads. Use a socket with extension to loosen each bolt. You'll soon determine which bolts in the corner will come out. The other eight will NOT lift out and have larger washers.

Gently lift the manifold up, to the left and toward the front of the car. Make sure to check that nothing is still connected and keeping it in place. Watch the solid pipe, on the right, slide out of the manifold and be sure the gasket doesn't get lost! Carefully, place the manifold off to the side.

You should now see both the front three and the rear three spark plug caps, with six rectangular holes in the top of the engine. BE CAREFUL NOT TO DROP ANYTHING DOWN THESE HOLES!!!!! It would be a good idea to cover these up with duct tape while you're working on removing the caps, bolts and finally the spark plugs.

Unclip the ignition wires from the plug caps. Then remove the bolts retaining the caps and place these in cup#5. MAKE SURE NOT TO DROP ANY DOWN INTO THE CYLINDER HOLES.

Pull up the caps slowly with firm force. Do NOT **** them. Some may be stubborn to come off so use steadily increasing force until they pop off the spark plugs and come freely out of the recessed holes.
You'll need a very long socket extension to reach the spark plugs. Replace the plugs with the platinum tipped variety. I doubt you'll want to go through all this again soon to save $10 on parts.

That's IT! Now work backward, replacing or reconnecting parts in the reverse order as you pulled them. Cross each item off as you work backward. Remember to reconnect the battery terminal and test start the car.

Tada !!!! You've just saved yourself a costly maintenance cost and are good for another 100k miles.

Posted on Feb 22, 2009

  • 11 Answers

SOURCE: Mazda MPV V6 engine noise

My strong guess without looking at it would be a cracked exhaust manifold, when it gets hot the metal expands an it doesn't leak.

Posted on Dec 18, 2008

motor1258
  • 6674 Answers

SOURCE: electricall problem w/2002 V6 mazda tribute

When that light comes on, it is indicating charging system problem which could mean alternator not charging for one reason or another like loose belt, faulty alternator, or yes, bad battery or connection at battery, for example. First & easiest thing to do is check all your connections to battery, which you've probably done, and make sure they're tight & clean. Make sure belt driving alternator is good & tight, and in good shape. Now boost the vehicle to get it going & test voltage at battery, after you take cables off. My guess is in your case, the voltage will begin to go down, indicating a bad alternator, that will need to be replaced.

Posted on Jan 17, 2009

  • 60 Answers

SOURCE: 2004 Mazda Tribute V6 will not stay running

Try this, it's cheap, easy and it won't take long...and it will probably help...

I have a 2001 Tribute and ithas had this problem since about 1 year after buying it new. My motherin law also has one and it has the exact same problem. You can crankthe car2_bing.gifcold (sometime even warm) and it will die unless you keep the gas pedal pressed in. I suspect that this is a widespread problem with theTribute. Forget about the Mazda dealer helping. There is a very simpleand cheap solution:

1. Locate the idle air controlvalve...looking at your engine from the front of the car2_bing.gif, the valve islocated on top of the air intake towards the far right corner of theengine (next to the plastic cover on top of the engine). The valve ismetal, looks like a small metal cylinder is attached to it, and isbolted on with two bolts. It also has wires plugged into it. You can goto google images2_bing.gif and type "Mazda tribute idle air control valve" to see what it looks like.

2. With engine off, unplug the wires from the valve.

3. Remove the two bolts and take valve off of air intake.

4.Inside the metal part you removed, you will see two chambers with ashaft going through them that can extend back and forth. The shaft hasa spring on it, and a plug that can open or plug a hole between the twocavities. This is the idle control valve.

5. Take a flat headscrew driver and pry the shaft back and forth a few times to free itup. There will probably be some dirt/grime on the shaft.

6. Takecarburetor cleaner and spray it in the valve cavities. Allow it to soakfor a minute and drain it out. Repeat if needed to clean it out.

7. Blow in it to dry it out.

8. Take WD40 and spray it in the cavities. Drain excess out
.
9. Take the screwdriver and work the shaft back and forth a few more times. The shaft should move freely.

10. Bolt the valve back onto the engine air intake and plug the wires back up to it.

Startthe engine. If this was the problem, and the engine was stalling justbefore doing this procedure, then it should start right up and idlefine. If it was stalling sporadically when started, it should not anymore. I have to do this procedure with my car every 6 - 12 months. Whenthis problem first occurred with my car it took it to the dealerseveral times. Of course it would not do it at the dealer, and theyclaimed ignorance as to the cause. I suspect this is a cash cow forMazda.

Posted on May 22, 2010

ZJLimited
  • 17970 Answers

SOURCE: need a pic of firing

For 2004 Mazda Tribute 4WD 3.0 liter DOHC V-6 check...

zjlimited_61.gif


Hope this helps (remember to rate thsi asnwer) TY for using Fixya.

Posted on Dec 10, 2010

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