Question about 1984 Ford F 150

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My 300 inline 6 is burning oil, has low oil pressure, and has excessive crankcase pressure pushing out the oil dipstick tube. any suggestions?

Posted by Anonymous on

5 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

michael_grey
  • 365 Answers

SOURCE: 1989 f150 300 inline 6

I would check the stator(hall effect switch) in the distibutor.4f600f4.jpg

Posted on Jul 21, 2009

mindreader
  • 578 Answers

SOURCE: i need the torque specs for a ford 300 inline 6

Tighten all bolts to 10 Lbs, then 20 Lbs, then 35 Lbs.
That should be fine for the 6 cylinder flywheel.

Posted on Oct 10, 2009

agent91
  • 2100 Answers

SOURCE: how do i change push rod cover gasket on a ford

Pull all the stuff out of the way of the cover, air filter, wires, anything that crosses over it, remove the bolts, remove the cover, clean out the old gasket, use no adhesive, especially silicone, and set the new one in the cover and carefully put the cover back on without losing the gasket, tighten up the bolts, put every thing back, all set.

Posted on Apr 11, 2010

  • 834 Answers

SOURCE: 1966 ford f100 inline 6 cyl 300\r\engine turns

Make sure that the primary wire between the distributor ignition points and ignition coil is not damaged anywhere and grounding the circuit out. This is not a ground wire.

Replace the ignition points condenser, if this is shorted your points will never be able to work. With the condenser removed, use an ohm meter to check the resistance between the end of the condenser wire and the condenser caseing, there should be infinite resistance or an open loop, but it should not show any kind of a connection between the two, or it is grounded or "shorted to ground" and it will prevent the ignition system from working.

Are the ignition points adjusted properly? They have to open and close to send a dwell signal to the coil.

Connect a test light to ground and on the NEG. (-) side of the coil, have someone crank the engine and look for the test light to flash, the test light should flash indicating a dwell signal or coil pulse. (Do not use the POS. + side of the coil for this test, because you will not get a dwell signal).

If no dwell signal, then...

1. Turn off ignition and remove the distributor cap and turn the engine over until a high spot on the distributor cam lobe is on the rubbing block on the ignition points.

This is the fully open position for the ignition points and where they need to be to set them. and if you do not know the feeler gauge size, or the dwell angle to set your points at (according to manufacturers specifications), then tear off a piece of a match book and place it between the two point breakers.

2. Loosen the point hold down adjusting screw and move the base of the points with a screwdriver (look for adjusting nothches), until there is a light drag felt pulling on the match book. For the newer GM's up to 1974, just use a 1/8 allen wrench to obtain the same light drag on the match book.

3. Remove the matchbook and there should still be a small gap between the point breakers, rotate the engine and you should see the points open and fully close.

4. Pull the coil wire out of the distributor cap and ground the end of the coil wire well or you might get shocked.

5. Have someone crank the engine and re-check for a dwell signal, you should also see a blue-white spark flashing between the point breakers as they open and close.

If you now have a dwell signal then replace the distributor cap back onto the distributor and the the coil wire back onto the distributor cap, the engine should now start.

If you did not grease the rubbing block of the ignition points with die-electric grease when you installed them, then the rubbing block on the points will wear down prematurely, the points will close down, and the engine will no longer start.

If you crank your engine over and the ignition rotor turns clockwise (looking down at the rotor) then you need to put the die-electric grease along the right side of the rubbing block edge (looking down at the points) so that the grease is trapped between the points and the distributor cam lobe, and the distributor cam lobe can pick up the grease. (Grease the left side of the rubbing block edge if the ignition rotor turns counter-clockwise). Only use die-electric grease.

Posted on Apr 19, 2010

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1 Answer

How can I stop oil from coming from my dipstick?


Depends on the cause.
Blow-by is when oil blows by the rings in the cylinders into the combustion chambers or compression blows by the rings into the crankcase. It can also be caused when too much pressure builds up in the crankcase because of a venting problem.
So blow-by can cause smoke out the tailpipe from oil burning with gasoline, or oil collecting in the air cleaner, or blowing out a seal or other place like your dipstick tube.
If it is caused by worn piston rings, the rings have to be replaced.
If it is a venting problem, you need to open up the vent, like the PCV valve or the air intake port.
If you remove the cap where you add oil and there is a vacuum when the engine is running, the venting system is working. If oil blows out the hole, there is too much pressure in the crankcase.

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If there is not too much oil in the engine, then the most likely cause of oil coming out of the dipstick tube is excessive pressure in the crankcase. This would indicate that there is an issue with the PCV valve or whatever other type of crankcase ventilation system the vehicle has. Check the system for clogs and clean/replace components as needed.

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If the oil filter is in that area check that it is fitted correctly. Check for an oil pressure sender unit in that area. Check for a failed rocker cover gasket ( loose bolts/screws or faulty PCV valve operation allowing excessive crankcase pressure which has pushed the gasket out at the loosest point.

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Since the dipstick tube is a slide in fit, you will need to drop the oil pan to work the rest of the part out.
1) drain the oil
2) remove the bolts holding the oil pan (once they are all out, you might need to tap the pan to get it to release from the block-my brother's 97 camry was like this)
3) Remove the pan and look up for the dipstick tube end, spray it good with some WD-40, let it sit for a few minutes. The photo shows some pretty bad corrosion in your case.
4) with a set of channel lock pliers, begin to work the tube out. Take your time, you will be pushing out, not trying to pull the piece through.
5) once it is out, clean the edges of the dipstick tube opening.
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7) Scrape off the old gasket from the oil pan and the face of the bottom of the engine.
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When out door temp is below 20 degree and I start the car and don't let it warm up before driving it forces oil out all oveer the engine


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There are a number of possible reasons ranging from overfilling with oil to a severely worn engine, but the most common cause is a blocked engine breather.

This needs servicing from time to time and when it's allowed to become blocked through a lack of maintenance it prevents excess crankcase pressure from escaping. The pressure still has to release somewhere and the dipstick is the most common route, as the gases escape through the narrow tube they inevitably push oil out as well.

If your engine hasn't had a major service then get that done first (it should include checking and cleaning/renewing the crankcase breather) and if the problem continues further diagnosis becomes far easier as you'll have eliminated any other causes which may be due to regular maintenance issues..

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