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Obviously, this is a tricky issue, so good you got the cam locking tool, but did you set the VVT when reinstalling timing belt, you have to set the pulley to full counter clockwise position before timing and aligning timing marks. I assume you did align to crank pulley, at least I hope so or your valves will be destroyed. Do you have dual VVT vehicle, or single VVT?
The cam timing to the crank timing is a bit tricky, it's 9 links from TDC to setup the cam from the oil pump, I suggest you go to your local mechanic and have him set it up, this is something you don't want to stuff up
code p1362 refers to camshaft position sensor (CMP) ---no signal==causes wiring--CMP sensor--ECM programming--ECM
First point -cheap sensors are a waste of time and money as they have to be made with a pre-set range suitable to the ECM in your car. next point --when fitting cam/crank position sensors you have to ensure the correct air gap is maintained . third point ---because it is not set to your CPU program then it is advisable to use a scanner tool to reprogram the CPU to read the sensors fitted. I would advise a change of mechanic as it appears that the advice you are getting is not exactly accurate.
You need a Cam Lock tool set for this otherwise you are going to be having a very difficult time with that Variable Exhaust Timing. Amazon sells the kits for about $100+ Shipping but I also advise getting the Timing Pulley Block from IPD to hold the pulleys in place while installing the belt. Do not forget to change your Cam seals at the same time. It is also a good time to reseal the Cam Cover if it is leaking.
How did you manage to rebuild an engine without removing the cam and crankshaft? After doing that, proper cam phasing is essential! Get a manual such as chltons or haynes and follow cam setup instructions, distributor install etc. Problem starting may be due to improper setup or a mistake or previous problem that existed before you did whatever you did to the engine, so go over everything carefully. I'm not there, but I'd give the same advise to anyone if I wasn't able to look at it myself!
Well I just looked up the specs for you for the 2.7 ltr. I hope this is what you want.
Cam Caps 105 in.lbs.
Cam Sprocket 250 in.lbs.
Crank Dampener 125 ft.lbs.
Cylinder Head Cover 105 in.lbs.
Here is an illustration of the timing chain set up. Be aware these marks are lined up with the three sets of plated links on the chain. You should easily identify them if you have a new chain. You may have to clean an old chain to see them.
Good luck with this and let me know how it goes for you.
with crank pulley white mark on 0 remove both cam pulley covers and verify yellow painted notches are exactly on the T mark cast in the fwd cam bearing housings..IF u find that it ISNT 'in time' then remove tensioner located near crank pulley and very carefully manipulate the L and R cam sprokets to allow belt to removed from cam sprockets only... DoNOT rotate engine without T belt installed .Do NOT turn engine backwards.. ever.. be advised that should the cam timing be off by more than 3 teeth either way serious engine damage will result ..this series of engines utilizes variable intake camshaft adjustment .. This job is not for the american small block specialist of yesteryear.. even an experienced asian tech is gonna have a difficult time with this lexus .. its not quite the same engine the Tundra uses...Lexus only mods befuddle reg toyota techs