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5.4 Triton engine.
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
The malfunctioning part in my case is what ford calls the "integrated wheel end" which locs the weel hub on the four wheel drive in or out as need. Part is available from Ford and cost about $110.00. I will do this repair myself.
Posted on Apr 10, 2009
Your front hubs are automatic locking hubs, and the gears are hard nylon. These hubs break very easily, therefore causing you to lose your front wheel drive in 4 high, or 4 low. If you replace the hubs with "WARN (name brand) " manual locking hubs, you will never have the issue again. Of course, you will have to get out of the truck and manually lock the hubs, but they are metal gears, and much more durable. I've personally seen the issue several times, and changing the hubs has resolved the issue every time.
Posted on May 01, 2009
SOURCE: rear axle leaking
Block the front tires. Break the rear lugs loose. Jack up the rear of the truck at the center if possible. remove the wheels & brake drums. Remove the brake shoes,return springs & all the other hardware. Remove the differential cover & drain oil. If you have a posi the next step sucks. You need to remove the threaded pin from the housing & remove the axle retaining clips. All the while,being carefull of the spring in the posi unit. If no posi,then same procedure,minus the "pucker factor". After the axle is out,take a large flat blade screw driver or pry bar & pop the seal out. Keep in mind the axle bearing is probably gone too , so that's another procedure. Keep it apart,you'll be glad you did.
Posted on Jun 23, 2009
First thing is to make sure you chock the front tires so the truck will not roll. Raise the rear end and set it on jack stands. Put the transmission in Neutral and make sure the parking brake is off. Remove the rear tires and disassemble the brakes on the side with the leaking seal. Place a drain pan under the rear differential and remove the cover. Remove the differential shaft lock bolt. You will need to turn the drive shaft by hand to access the bolt. It will be on the right side off the spider gear housing. Only use a 5/16 or 8mm 6 point box end wrench to remove the bolt. After you remove the bolt reach on the top of the spider gear housing and push the differential lock shaft down to remove it. Make sure the spider gears do not rotate after you remove the shaft. If they do you will need to realign everything to reinstall the lock shaft. Push the axle shaft in enough to remove the "C" clip from the tip of it. The axle will now slide out of the rear end. You can use the tip of the axle shaft to remove the axle seal. If you're changing the bearing as well you will need a slide hammer with axle bearing adapters to remove it. You can use a socket and hammer to install the new bearing and seal. Be careful not to damage the bearing and seal. I recommend packing grease in the back side of the seal. This helps prevent the spring on the seal lip from coming off. Assembly is the reverse. Clean off all the gear oil from the differential cover and the axle. You can use RTV as a gasket if the OEM gasket is damaged. Fill the rear end with new gear oil of the proper type. Refer to your owner's manual.
Posted on Jun 05, 2010
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