SOURCE: 1993 Toyota Camry V6 Timing Settings
Get a T belt from toyota. It has 3 white lines on
it and and arrow mark. 2 lines are solid and one is broken. Put the
arrow facing away from the engine. The cam gears have a dot punched
into them near a certain tooth. This is where the solid white lines
will line up with. The crank gear will have a dot also. It will line up
at 90 degrees from the top, towards the front of the car. This is where
the broken line will match up with. With the belt installed with all
lines on their proper dots and arrow away from the engine, you valve
timming is correct.
Of course you need to remove and compress the tensioner also. I assume you know this already since you didn't ask.
SOURCE: replacing bad camshaft position sensor
Reverse procedure to install and prior to installing new sensor, lubricate sensor O-ring.
It is located under the water pump. Make sure when you remove the sensor that you rotate the crank shaft and look in the hole to make sure the pick up magnet is still in there. Sometimes they come loose and cause a no start or long crank. You will need to have the code cleared still.
SOURCE: camshaft position sensor
The camshaft position sensor is on the rear cylinder head on the left end (the serpentine belt end of the engine - passenger side). It is a son-of-a gun to get at. When it is bad or the connector is intermittant or bad, the symptom will be irregular idle from 500 to 750 RPM or so.
SOURCE: Where is the camshaft position sensor on a 2000 Ford Explorer?
in the rear like where the dist would normaly be
SOURCE: check engine light on 2003 toyota tacoma, O2 sensor?
An O2 sensor code is a tricky one. It could mean SEVERAL different things, and I know how bad it sucks to hear this, but your best bet is to take it in and have a diagnostic ran on it at either a dealer or a good mechanic shop with a computer they can hook up to it. I had an "O2" code come up a while back on another car I used to have, and literally spent weeks and hundreds of dollars trying to fix it, and never did. Finally out of desperation took it in, paid the $90, and they found the problem and fixed it in like 30 minutes. Something I would have never even thought of was causing it (can't remember off the top of my head). After that I stopped wating time and money on check engine lights. One comes on in my car, I take it to have it ran for free at and auto parts store just to make sure it's not a loose gas cap or something, just to get an idea of what I'm looking at, then go and make an appointment to have to hooked up to a diagnostic computer to track down the problem. Good luck, and hope this helps save you some time and money.
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