I have a 1990 Ford Aerostar Van
I was driving and the voltage meter went to red
turned on my lights and they went dim
tried to start it again and it wouldn't start
the batter was dead.
Do I need a voltage alternator?
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If the headlights are dim when the engine stops, the alternator is not charging the battery.
A lead-acid battery will "recover" slightly when the engine is turned off. The recovery may be enough to allow the engine to be started again but if the battery is not being charged adeqautekly, the engne wills top running when the battery voltage falls too much. It won't last long, though. The battery terminal voltage should be around 14.5 Volts with the engine running. If it is 12V or less then the alternator is defective.
There are diodes in alternators to convert AC into DC for the battery. If you "jump start" cars with yours, its alternator diodes or the alternator's internal regulator circuit can be damaged due to excessive loads and/or what is called "inductive kickback" from the other car's starter.
Check your fuses for the turn signal - also the relay unit could be bad - these are located drivers side just below the steering column (there should be a removable panel there) - I have an 89, and that is where it is on mine.- google aerostar fuse dia and you should be able to find the fuse box layout, so you know the ones to check.
I would have said to check a bulb, but since the flashers work, you know it's A) not a bad bulb, and B) not anything with the wiring...
To remove the lead from the battery to the alternator while it is running is to invite a destroyed alternator . Varying voltages with engine RPM is indicative of a bad battery or problem alternator regulator . Have a load test done on the battery to check for cell problems and have the alternator bench tested to check the performance .
Its unusual for both doors to fail at the same time, but not impossible. Since you say the lights dim and you can hear noise in the doors we will assume the motors have voltage and ground. You would need to remove the motors from the regulators to see if the motors are faulty or if the problem is with the regulators or tracks.
Test your battery and starter by doing a voltage drop test. Put one test lead of your meter on the neg side of your battery, one on the positive. Check voltage. Make sure that you are actually connecting to the battery itself and not the terminal ends. Should read 12.8-13.2. Keeping the neg in the same location move the pos to the terminal end, engage starter, meter should read above 10 volts. Continue testing down the pos wire to the starter, checking voltage, until you find less than 10 volts. If the voltage is good at starter, have someone turn key to the start position, tap starter with a hammer. if starter engages , replace starter.
What is the condition of both front calipers? both rear wheel cylinders? and the complete brake lines and hoses of your van? If they are all good with no traces of leakage, then did you bleed the Mastercylinder on the bench first before installing in the van? Did you gravity bleed the 4 wheels first? did you bleed from the farthest wheel first? Are you using a new Master and not a re-built??
The alternator may not be charging the battery. Jump start it, and use a volt meter at the battery, red lead to positive and black to neg. The meter should read between 13 and almost 15 volts, any lower than 13 volts, the alternator is no good. (this is done with vehicle running).
Your alternator is going bad. It should only put out 13-14 volts and therefore is overcharging your battery. This causes your battery to get a dead cell. If you replace the alternator and battery, make sure you check the cables for any shorts.