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I have a Haddon Teeter totter clock which is missing motor connection to clock's works. Is there a parts breakdown or drawing

Clock has a Hansen synchron motor, clock shaped like a house with a boy and a girl on a moving teeter totter. The motor is disconnected from the clock works and I do not have the parts to reconnect it.

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SOURCE: tire size for 92 camaro anniversary edition

look onm the sidewall of your tires...there are numbers on there tha indicate size...example (not your car) 225 70 r15 ......225 is the size,(how tall) 70 is the aspect ratio (but not terribly important here) and r means radial, 15 is the size of the hole in the center where the wheel goes.
Ifg all tires have the same number then they are the same size. Usually there is a sticker inside the door (the part where the latch is) that lists the proper size.
Rim offset is how far in from the face of the wheel (where the tire meets the wheel) the mounting flange is. Most wheels have the flange half way between inside and outside edge. That is "0" offset. If the flange is nearer to the outside that is negative, more towards the inside, positive. Either way offset has nothing to do with height. You can customize cornering by using more positive offset at the rear but you can't put those wheels in the front. I just listed enough stuff for you to get an idea whats going on, If you have the facts right, then the shop is not telling you the truth.
A side note to this is if you have abs brakes, you need to have all four tires the same size or the computer will read slippage where there is none and mis apply the brakes.

Posted on May 14, 2009


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Arm that connects the driver side windshield wiper arm to the wiper motor has disconnected & I don't know how to get it back on?

Had the exact same problem. You'll need to replace the entire linkage or "transmission". Do your research on dealers for the parts. They will mark these up almost 80% if you are not careful. The part should not cost more than $100. There are no repair kits for this particular linkage system. Thank you General Motors. Also finding these at junkyards is tricky. Even though the 04 Grand Am shares a lot of parts with other GM cars, this is not one of them and these are some of the first parts scrounged when the cars come in.

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Locating the source of the drain can either take a long time or you can get lucking and find it quickly. The easiest way I have found to isolate and narrow down where the draw/drain is coming from is this: You will need a test light. You will need to disconnect the negative cable from your battery. Connect the "aligator" clip on the test light to the groung terminal/cable that is attached to the vehicle and then take the "pointy" part of the test light to the negative terminal on the battery. If you have a draw/drain the light on the test light will light up. Now with the light on the test light glowing, begin to pull one fuse at a time (putting them back after). When you get to the circuit the the draw is coming from the light will shut off. Now comes the long process of finding out what that fuse covers and narrowing down and locating the draw. Now the light may be a little dim if you have a delay on any lights shuting off or from your radio or clock storing memory from your radio and due to the clock always needing power to keep time, this is normal and shouldn't be enough to drain the battery. That's going to be a dim light. If it's a bright light then you have a pretty good pull on your battery and that's what you need to find. For example, below is a picture of the fuse panel on your vehicle. Say you pull the number 7 fuse out and the bright light goes out. The stuff on that circuit are things like the light in the glove box, the cig. lighter and a number of other things. Begin by disconnecting stuff on that circuit (with the fuse back in) until the light on the test light goes out again. Then at that point you have located the source of the draw and correct it. I hope I was able to explain it to you correctly and hope this helps you.


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When you hit the starter it will click then start and the clock will reset to 12:00 2003 grand am

The clock resets because the car battery voltage/current is so low that when the starter motor is turned the + 12 drops to less than 8 volts and so the CLOCK resets.
Please have the battery checked, check the starter motor , battery terminals must be tight.

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Trying to get at the door linkage,cause my passenger side manual sliding door on 2001 mantana will not open,so I want to take the panel off but im not to sure how to go about it..(sounds like everythings...


you must remove the screws along the bottom of the door panel. you must remove 2 screw in under the door "arm rest" (they're toward the front) you MUST remove the metal clip behind the window crank (those with pwr w/l dont have to worry about this step obviously) to do this: you can try to use a thin towel. placing it between the panel and the thin black disc and pulling in a teeter-totter motion. HOWEVER, the best and easiest way to do this is to get ahold of the tool made to do this. it can be picked up at most local auto stores. Or if you live near a best buy or other stores that does installations, tell them you are having trouble getting them out and ask them to remove them for you. (they have a Snap-On tool for this and it works like a CHARM!!) once the metal clip is removed pull the window crank off once you have the bolts and screws removed, you need to go along the edges of the door panel with a long screw driver or your hands and seperate the panel fromm the door (there are several push-pin that hold it to the door) then lift up and out slowly. you'll have to move it around the door handle. before you try to complete take the panel off, UNHOOK the speaker wiring (and power doors/locks if you have them)

to put the panel back on, basically repeat the steps. the first thing you need to do is put the panel back on by starting at the top where the window comes out. there should be a groove that the door rests on. then line up all of the push-pins with their holes (and connect any needed wires) put the bolts back in under the arm rest, and along the bottom of the panel, then the window clip. (this may take a few attempts, but you'll get it)

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go to a chrysler dealer's parts desk. ask them to show you an illustrated parts breakdown of your bumper. then you will see what parts you are missing and have the part numbers, prices, and know how much time it would take to fix it. they will generally print you a page off for free.

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First - Safety is always the key to working with fuel:
1) Remove from the area of work anything that could ignite the fuel, 'High intensity shop lights, no smoking'
2) Work with a flash light or directional battery operated light if its dark.

Two tools to have in my opinion -
1) Pliers
2) Needle nose

1st - use the pliers to spin/break the hose end loose over the In and out flang of the fuel filter.

2nd - If you have a needle nose pliers which have a very narrow nose end.
Place the nose end all the way at the hose end that's over the fuel filter's intake/output flange.
You then can leverage the hose off by forcing the body of the needle nose up against the body of the filter.
Just like a teeter totter where the body of the filter becomes the /\ fulcrum of the teeter totter.
Hope this makes sense?
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Car: 1989 Subaru GL Wagon AWD Problem: Passenger power window doesn't work solutions that failed: Remove interior door panels and check electric cables- cables were good and don't have electricity....

Violethaze, (someone used all of the purple haze?) You're real close. If the window operates from the main switch at the drivers seat then you probably have dirty contacts on the pass. switch.
If this is the case then take the panel off again, remove the switch from the panel and carefully remove the top from the electrical portion. Don't lose the spring! Remember - they put it together so it will come apart using the special tool #002 (Pocket screw driver). These are non-serviceable parts but I've cleaned lots of them. After you get the switch apart, you'll see the brass teeter-totter (TT) pieces with the contacts attached to them. Clean the TT contacts with an emery board and scratch the corrosion from the other contacts with your special tool. Lube it, snap it back together, plug it back into the wiring and test it before the final re-assembly.
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