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leaving the radio on all night would not cause the battery to drain away like this providing its a good one .try disconnecting the battery overnight and see if it still drains as sometimes a battery can drain flat on its own which is caused by sulphation across the internal plates in the cells ,then if if it starts the next moring the battery is ok ,so next is to discoinnect the alternator large terminal off the alternator and try that and if it starts the following day renew the alternator as a rectifying diode is down running battery flat ,if still a proble then out comes the tester to look for a relay that has the contacts stuck together or the favourite boot light but this is a pick up truck so i would suspect the alternator
to find the drawSwitch off all electrical loads such as lights, radio equipment, auxiliary equipment and make sure the vehicle ignition system is turned off.Remove all ground paths from the negative battery terminals.Connect a jumper lead from theground cable to the negative battery terminalYou are now feeding the electrical current requirements of the entire vehicle through the jumper lead.Do not activate any other electrical equipment while the jumper lead is supplying the vehicle current.Wait five minutes to allow all electrical devices to shut down and go to standby mode.While waiting for the vehicle electronics to go to sleep, set up a digital ammeter, such as the Fluke 88to read amps (automatic scale) and make sure the test leads are plugged in to the correct connectors to read amps (COM and A).Connect the COM ammeter lead to the negative battery stud and the positive lead to the connected ground cableAfter five minutes with the jumper and the ammeter connected in parallel, remove the jumper lead from the three connected cables to the negative battery stud as shown in Figure 3.The vehicles entire current requirements (parasitic load) will now be going through the ammeter.Read the current flow in milliamps.Remember that 1000 milliamps is equal to 1 amp.If the readout has ma after the reading youre measuring milliamps, if the readout has A after the reading youre measuring amps.If at any time during this process the current flow is interrupted (a connector falls off) you must begin again with the jumper connected for five minutes before attempting to remove it leaving the ammeter passing all current andmeasuring the parasitic load,Under normal conditions, while parked, a vehicle equipped with a standard electronics package should be drawing less than 50 milliamps.If the parasitic load is more than this the vehicles battery storage life will be shortened.If excessive current draw is observed, remove the fuses one at a time until a significant current drop is noted.Do not pull and reinstall the fuses as this may wake up some circuits and cause excessive surge current through the meter.Make note of fuse locations as they are pulled so they can be reinstalled in the proper fuse panel location when testing is complete.When high current draw devices are isolated consider relocating their power feed from a power source that is inactive when the ignition switch is turned to OFF.Sorry So long but hope it helps
You have a short at one of your systems. It#s sometimes difficult to find such a "electrical gremlin"... I've searched one week and dismounted the whole interior... try to check some systems for a short as follows: connect a Ampere meter for this checks. First try to remove fuses out of the power distribution center right in engine compartment. Do this step by step, one fuse, if fine, fuse back, next fuse and so on.. if you find the main system with the short, do the same with the fuses in dashboard, passenger side how connected with this main circuit. If you've located the circuit with the short, check the whole wiring system related to this circuit till you get him. ..or.... let a specialist check your car. Good Luck!
Hi There. One possible approach would be, with the ignition off, remove the fuses one at a time and place a multimeter, set up to measure current, across the fuse terminals. If you do not have a multimeter, a low wattage bulb (5W) with wire attached may work. Some equipment like the stereo will use a few millamps but any significant current draw will identify the circuit responsible. Then use the manual to find which equipment is fed from that fuse or see what equipment does not work with the fuse removed. Mechanical relays can stick causing current drain problems. I wouldn't think there is a direct short because this would blow the fuse in the circuit. The alternator itself can drain a battery if the rectifier starts to break down. As it is difficult to measure current going through the alternator, you could measure the battery voltage while the alternator plug is removed. A small increase in voltage (maybe less than 1 volt) occuring at the same time as the plug removal would suggest current draining through the alternator. The voltage measuring technique can be used for the fuse removal if you prefer. Hope this helps. Good luck!
BATTERY VOLTAGE CAN DRAIN THROUGH STARTER RELAY OR BAD DIODE IN THE ALTERNATOR.I WOULD REPLACE THE STARTER RELAY.I AM LOOKING AT A ELECTRICAL DIAGRAM.YOU HAVE A 40 AMP IGNITION FUSE THAT FEED THE STARTER RELAY.IF STARTER RELAY HAS A SHORT IN IT.IT COULD DRAIN THE BATTERY.
1.The electrical schematics are in section 12 of the Haynes repair manual for cherokees 1984 through 2001 .
2. With all accessories turned off disconnect -ve battery terminal from the battery (wear your safety glasses at all times in the vicinity of the battery ) .
3. Solder 2 leads to a 12V light bulb and connect the leads as follows : 1 to the -ve battery terminal , the other to the loose -ve cable you disconnected in step 2.
4. If the bulbs glows , start removing , then replacing your fuses one at a time while noting which fuse made the bulb glow dimmer . The corresponding accessory is draining your battery .
No, corrosion will not cause a battery to drain, even if the corrosion is on the terminals. Several factors can cause battery drain, I would first have the battery tested to see if the battery it self is not bad. If the battery is good, then the most common is a short. All most all new cars have a certain amount of drain,(measured in milivolts) this drain is for clocks and computer memory's, and it would take several days of a vehicle sitting for the battery to be drained. Don't immediately assume you have a problem if you see 2-6 milivolts of drain on a battery with the key out, now if your battery is being drained after being parked over night, you have a problem. The easiest way to pin down the problem short is to disconnect your positive battery cable from the battery, take a 12 volt test light and clamp one end to the positive cable, and hold the probe to the positive post. Now if you have a short the light will come on. Have someone help you by pulling the fuses one at a time. If when a fuse is pulled the light goes out you have isolated the short to that system. If you pulled all the fuses and the light never went out try disconnecting all the wires from the alternator, 9 times outta 10 do this will let you know where your short is. If the system is not critical like power locks some people just leave the fuse out.