Question about 2006 Hyundai Tiburon
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
hi not conversant with the tiberon in uk but will try to help ? if you remove the rear wheel then look at the brake disc (rotor) most hyundai rear discs on uk models are secured to the rear hub by 2x screws posidrive or tork heads ? if this is so on yours then no problem you will have to remove the caliper first from the carrier 2xbolts h/brake off then undo 2xbolts securing caliper carrier tosuspension stub assy your disc /s are most probably vented discs? or may be standard discs? remove the screws then you may have to hit disc from behind with hammer to jolt free as they are sometimes rusted on due to high temps and rain ideal conditions to create rust as you prob know? re assemble is reverse hope this helps ?
Posted on Oct 24, 2008
hi assume you wish to fit new pads ? if so the the rear caliper pistons are not as front calipers just push back you have to wind back the pistons whilst applying pressure to piston there is a tool specially for this purpose which saves time and effort cheapest un uk is the one made by draper tool Co see motor stores? however! you can improvise and manually wind pistons back using the U shape spanner with 2x prongs that is commonly used/supplied to circular saws and this is spanner for changing blades ? does the trick if you have or can borrow one? look at pistons and you will see where tool locates you just turn c/wise and press piston as you do and it will retract have a little patience! the most important tool in the box that money can't buy ! hope this helps best wishes from uk
Posted on Nov 04, 2008
is it snowing if it is and this is a manual tranny try to leave it in gear one night and not ingage the e brake sounds like it is freezing up on you. snow can get in there and when you stop it freezes the brakes in place you could try and put some hot water on the rear brakes and see if it frees them up. hope this helps you
Posted on Jan 17, 2009
Normally rear disk brake pistons have notches on the top of the piston that a tool does fit into (usually a small square shaped tool with protrusions that fit into the notches on the top of the caliper pistons and this tool usually fits onto a 3/8 drive extension and ratchet), and the piston is then rotated down into the caliper, it actually screws into the caliper. You do not want to compress this type of piston or you will damage the caliper and piston.
Posted on Apr 19, 2010
It's fairly easy and the tool cost less than $10 at most auto parts stores, so why rent it? As for instructions...here you go:
- "Loosen" lug nuts.
- Jack the car up. Support with jack stand(s).
- Remove previously loosened lugs. Remove tire.
- Remove bottom caliper bolt
- Loosen, but do not remove top caliper bolt
- Caliper should now "swing" open from bottom up
- Remove old pads. They should slide right out.
- Spray in some "Brake Kleen" to clear out all that brake dust/gunk and wipe it down. You may want to place a rag or something to catch the brake kleen run off.
- Inspect your old pads for "uneven wear". This will save you tons of time later if you have a bad rotor or stuck piston that has been causing uneven wear or gouges.
- If they are worn evenly, proceed to compress the piston back into the caliper with your tool.
Some tools attach to a socket end, this enables you to ratchet the piston back "IN" to it's original position. Either way you can only turn clockwise regardless of the tool. It will be tough, but not impossible. You should encounter tough but "smooth" resistance. Both rear pistons should feel similar in resistance, if not you may have a stuck piston. You'll know though ;)
-Once completely compressed, slide in your new pads and bring the caliper back down into po-si-tion. NOTE: If you removed both TOP and BOTTOM caliper bolts it may be tricky lining them back up with a new "full" brake pad, but be persistent and wiggle those bolts back in place. DO NOT FORCE OR CROSS-THREAD ANY BOLT. WD40 should help.
- Once the new pads are on and the caliper is back in place, make sure to break them in nice and easy with slow consistent stops for the first 50 miles or so.
-The pads will touch the rotor, but that's normal and you should still be able to turn the rotor with some resistance. Once the tire is mounted, it should turn alot smoother.
Hope this helps.
Posted on Apr 28, 2010
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