Question about 1986 Toyota MR2
What could the noise be in the lower end ?
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: Rod bearing knocking
These procedures may be performed with the engine in the car. If additional overhaul work is to be performed, it will be easier if the engine is removed and mounted on an engine stand. Most stands allow the block to be rotated, giving easy access to both the top and bottom. These procedures require certain hand tools which may not be in your tool box. A cylinder ridge reamer, a numbered punch set, piston ring expander, snapring tools and piston installation tool (ring compressor) are all necessary for correct piston and rod repair. These tools are commonly available from retail tool suppliers; you may be able to rent them from larger automotive supply houses.
Remove any splash shield or rock guards which are in the way and remove the oil pan.
Using a numbered punch set, mark the cylinder number on each piston rod and bearing cap. Do this BEFORE loosening any bolts.
Loosen and remove the rod cap nuts and the rod caps. It will probably be necessary to tap the caps loose; do so with a small plastic mallet or other soft-faced tool. Keep the bearing insert with the cap when it is removed.
Use short pieces of hose to cover the bolt threads; this protects the bolt, the crankshaft and the cylinder walls during removal.
One piston will be at the lowest point in its cylinder. Cover the top of this piston with a rag. Examine the top area of the cylinder with your fingers, looking for a noticeable ridge around the cylinder. If any ridge is felt, it must be carefully removed by using the ridge reamer. Work with extreme care to avoid cutting too deeply.When the ridge is removed, carefully remove the rag and ALL the shavings from the cylinder. No metal cuttings may remain in the cylinder or the wall will be damaged when the piston is removed. A small magnet or an oil soaked rag can be helpful in removing the fine shavings.
After the cylinder is de-ridged, squirt a liberal coating of engine oil onto the cylinder walls until evenly coated. Carefully push the piston and rod assembly upwards from the bottom by using a wooden hammer handle on the bottom of the connecting rod.
The next lowest piston should be gently pushed downwards from above. This will cause the crankshaft to turn and relocate the other pistons as well. When the piston is in its lowest position, repeat the steps used for the first piston. Repeat the procedure for each of the remaining pistons.
When all the pistons are removed, clean the block and cylinder walls thoroughly with solvent.
Posted on Sep 30, 2008
This is Caused By the Grease in the Spindle Bearings Getting frozen. Get it Greased up really Well and you Might need to Repack the Bearings on this side to Stop this and Stop further Damage to the Spindle.
Posted on Jan 17, 2009
no-sorry to tell u but need to pull engine to access crank shaft have to drop oil pan and u have to break down engine to block[ rod bearing might be part of problem wrist pin also may be damaged even side wall of cylinder may be damaged ] piston and rod go in from top of cylinder
Posted on Apr 08, 2010
I do think that loose key and keyway could cause the knock. It would also explain the loss of power, due to the engine timing not being spot on.
A knocking big end or main bearing would not improve at higher revs, it would get worse.
Act soon before the keyway in the crankshaft itself is too badly damaged, by removing the crankshaft pulley, lower timing belt cover, and belt guide. You can then get a precise idea of what exactly is worn. This may assist
You may actually have to find an oversize key, for a neat fit in the crankshaft. It may be necessary to file or grind it to fit. Engineering supply houses stock them, eg
Posted on Dec 05, 2011
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