I'm doing a all around brake and rotor replacement on my 1999 Trans Am. I get the first tire off (drivers rear) and got the calipur and calipur mounting bracket off. The rotor is old worn and very rusty. I cannot get it to budge to come off from this point. Ive tried prying it with a screwdriver in the rotors slotted edge but it broke the screwdriver. Do I have to remove a center screw of hit it with a hammer or something? Thanks in advance!
An expert who has achieved level 3 by getting 1000 points
An expert that got 20 achievements.
An expert that got 10 achievements.
An expert that got 5 achievements.
Re: Rear rotor problem
Leave the center bolt in - that secures the drive axle in the hub. Use a hammer and whack the rotor hat (the raised center section where the lug studs come through) along the edge of it, where it protrudes from the surface where the pads contact it, out toward the section where the lug studs are. Hit it around the circumference every inch or so, and see if that helps.
Some cars also have a screw holding the rotor to the hub. If your hat surface is rusty, clean it up with brake cleaner and a wire brush - it may be that you have a screw or two in there that secure it to the hub, and they're just covered with rust/corrosion/dust. If you have no screws though, usually hitting it with a hammer will break it free.
A 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
Best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
The service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of (from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones). click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need. Good luck!
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
You should have an alignment on all 4 wheels. Check that the rear axle has not shifted forward or backward on one side. If you have Rear Disc Brakes, have the Hub & Rotor checked for alignment. Does this shaking happen all of the time or just when turning? Does it only happen when you apply the brakes? A Rotor and Hub that is out of alignment will cause shaking. Also check that the Caliper Slide Bolts are lubricated, otherwise the caliper will not operate correctly and the inside of the rotor will wear out faster. This can cause shaking also.
Realize all that is holding them on after you take off caliper slider assembly, is rust & possibly rear emergency brake shoes, inside drum inside rotor. I always engage emergency brake 1 to 2 clicks then ride around the block. That gets rid of rust & ridge on drum. Release emergency brake.Jack up truck, remove tire. Spray around center of rear hub, near studs also, with a good penetrating oil. Then remove 2 retaining bolts that hold rear caliper slider to rear spindle, & remove slider assy & caliper. Now take good sledge hammer & whack center & outside of rotor. Sometimes it takes a bunch of good hits, then they come off.
jack the car take the tire off .remove the caliper ,,around middle of the rotor there is a small screw hole its is close to the tire screws you need to use a star key to take the screw off ,,that screw holds the rotor to the spindle once u take it off tap the rotor with a hammer gently to make it come lose sometimes u have to do that sometimes you don't need to ,,the rotor should come off easy ,,,replace it and put every thing back ..,,,Joe
Hope this helps. This is out of the factory manual. Let me know if this works for you.
NOTE: Tensioner adjustment is only necessary when the tensioner, or a cable has been replaced or disconnected for service. When adjustment is necessary, perform adjustment only as described in the following procedure. This is necessary to avoid faulty park brake operation.
Fully back off cable tensioner adjusting nut at equalizer to create slack in cables.
Remove rear wheel/tire assemblies. Remove brake calipers and rotors.
Verify park brakes are in good condition and operating properly.
Verify park brake cables operate freely and are not binding, or seized.
Check park brake shoe adjustment.
Reinstall rotors and make sure rotors turn freely.
Raise the vehicle. Refer to Vehicle Lifting in General Diagnosis.
Remove the wheel and the tire. Refer to Tire and Wheel Removal and Installation in Wheels, Tires and Alignment.
Remove and support the brake caliper. Refer to Brake Caliper Replacement (Front) or Brake Caliper Replacement (Rear) in Brakes.
Remove the brake rotor. Refer to Brake Rotor Replacement in Disc Brakes.
Remove the ABS sensor wire connector.
Remove the four bolts from the control arm.
Remove the hub and bearing from the control arm.
Remove the brake shield from the control arm.
Clean the control arm face and the bore before installing the hub and the bearing.
Notice: Refer to Fastener Notice in Service Precautions.
Install the brake shield and the hub and the bearing to the control arm with the four bolts. Be careful not to drop the hub and the bearing, as it could be damaged. Reconnect the ABS sensor. Tighten the hub and bearing bolts to 70 Nm (52 ft. lbs.).
Install the brake rotor. Refer to Brake Rotor Replacement in Disc Brakes.
Install the brake caliper. Refer to Brake Caliper Replacement (Front) or Brake Caliper Replacement (Rear) in Disc Brakes.
Install the wheel and the tire. Refer to Tire and Wheel Removal and Installation in Wheels, Tires and Alignment. Tighten the wheel nuts to 140 Nm (100 ft. lbs.).