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2004 ford explorer 4.6, Starter & location

Need location of starter on this type of engine & cost of replacement?

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6ya6ya
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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olwork
  • 237 Answers

SOURCE: need a diagram showing location of the starter on

4.0L engine:
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4.6L engine:
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Posted on May 24, 2010

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  • 104 Answers

SOURCE: where is the location of a 2001 ford explorer sport starter?

Follow the heavy positive battery wire which is connected to the starter; starter is bolted to the bottom back of engine.

Posted on Jun 18, 2009

  • 96 Answers

SOURCE: Replaced battery and starter. My 2004 ford

this is a stupid idea but one of my co-workers have a 98 explorer and she lost the chip in her key. after that it still wouldnt start turns out the anti-theft kicked in and they had to reset the fuel shut off switch. your battery replacement maybe did the same? not sure where your switch is but hers was up under her passenger side floor board up front somewhere around the kick panel it was a purdy red button

Posted on Nov 04, 2009

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SOURCE: 1998 ford explorer starter solenoid location?

Usually mounted on the inner fender well by the battery, the positive battery cable is hooked to it.

Posted on Dec 19, 2009

planet-x
  • 232 Answers

SOURCE: How do you replace the starter in a 1996 Ford

This is a very simple repair that is rendered near-impossible by the physical access a mortal human has to the starter work area. 1. Make sure you remove and secure the negative battery terminal connection before you start. As tight a squeeze as this repair is, you have zero chance of snaking a socket over one of the solenoid wire connections without bumping one of the other connections and shorting a circuit ONCE YOU DISCONNECT that battery, you're going to lose all your stored computer error codes. So, if you need to check those, check them before you start the repair. 2. You want to get your Explorer up on ramps. If the Explorer is dead, you aren't going to be able push that behemoth up ramps, so Plan B is to use T-pots or concrete blocks. Now... The long armed amongst you can try and do this repair from ABOVE, but -- at least where the starter's mounting bolts are concerned -- you'll probably want to do at least some of it from BELOW, with your face a good ways under the driver's side axle. You really, really, REALLY don't want to slide as far under the car as is necessary to complete this job with only a rickety jack keeping you from being squarshed like a grape. (Remember the scene in Goodfellas where they had that guy's head in a vice? Scorsese was forced by the MPAA ratings board to cut the part where Joe Pesci reaches over and spins the vice handle and the guy's head explodes all over the crew. That's your future if you're under the Explorer's axle and the jack slips. Don't be a fool.) 3. You definitely want a completely cool engine before you do this job. Not only will you have to snake your hand up through narrow, hot parts of the engine to disconnect the starter bolts from the engine (while underneath), but I swear you have to lay across the top of the engine to extract the old starter upwards and out and lower in the new one. (Maybe it will fit down through that little trapezoidal hole in the frame underneath, but I couldn't do it.) Which brings us to... HOLY ****, it's hard to get a socket on the two main mounting bolts of the starter (done from underneath), much less the disconnects for the various wires to the solenoid. (probably best done from above) I have really long orangutan arms and it was a uber-pain to stretch a socket downward on those solenoid nuts. Even if you had the car on a rack and were standing under it instead of creeping under, this would still be maddening. When you are under the car, there's an approx five inch trapazoidal hole in the frame where all the tools have to fit through for access to the mounting nuts and bolts. Brothah, if you don't have an automatic compressor-driven socket wrench (and compressor) borrow one from a friend who does. There is zero room to get torque on a standard socket wrench. Don't take this as gospel, but a 1/2 inch (13mm) did the lion's share of the work. There was a smaller nut on one of the solenoid connections. However, the lower of the two mounting nuts (the one with the wire attached by a second nut) will require EITHER A BOX END WRENCH ("Oh Jesus, kill me now") or a DEEP-WELL 1/2" SOCKET. Hope that saves you a trip back to the store. The main bolt has the mounting nut welded a third of the way down and is shaped kinda like: ===D====== OH! This is important, I guess: If you are doing the majority of disconnections from under the car, You want to disconnect the solenoid wires FIRST. If you pull out the starter mounting bolts, and then snake your socket onto the solenoid connection bolts, the whole assembly is just going to flop around when you try to apply torque, putting stress on the brittle wires. Again: "That's-a no good." I wish you luck. Job took me three hours, but fully 90 minutes of that were spent spewing profanity and saying "this can't be done!" I was wrong. It can be done. It's a "simple component swap repair" rendered challenging by my claustrophobia and some very optimistic design engineers at One Ford Plaza. Ramps/T-pots are your friend. Buy yourself as much room as you can under the car to work. Chock the back tires so the Explorer can't roll backwards off the T-pots or concrete blocks. An automatic compressor-driven socket ratchet is a bonus. SUPER TIP: Put the shop light on top of the front driver's side tire, shooting into the wheel well, It's the only good way we found to light the work area. The light I use didn't get hot enough to damage the tire, but beware that possibility.

Posted on Jan 14, 2010

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1 Answer

Need a wiring digram for a 2004 Ford Explorer starting system


Sorry but I can't help with a diagram.

I think your car could be a CANbus system where there is no direct connection between the starter switch and the starter motor. Starting is likely to be controlled by a relay which is energised by an ECU if the immobiliser has been disarmed, the starter switch only serving to send a signal to a nearby computer for starting to take place.

If this is your system it is possible to check the switch, relay, starter in the traditional manner but glitches in the system will need specialist diagnostic equipment to locate.

Apologies if I have guessed wrongly...

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Disconnect the negative battery cable ,Jack up the vehicle then crawl under the vehicle .Locate the starter , disconnect the wires attached to the starter solenoid . Remove the bolts that hold the starter to the engine block . Sounds simple , it can be ! Just depends if you need to remove other parts to get at the starter !

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There are a couple of things if you haven't checked them already. In the power distribution box located under the hood of the vehicle in the engine compartment there is a cartridge fuse and a starter relay. Below is a diagram of the fuse layout. The cartridge fuse is a 30 amp and is the one in the number 8 position and the starter relay is the one in the number 49 position. I have seen in many cases with Fords that if the starter has a short or it is trying to pull to much power it will blow the fuse. I hope this helps and good luck.


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If your going to be removing all of this I recommend you get the Haynes repair manual on the vehicle so you have the illustrations and directions for dis-assembly and assembly of the starter. The starter should be located on the bottom right of the engine where the Transmission attaches.

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Hello gmboswell: My name is Roger and I will help. You will find the starter located on the passenger side of the motor. You will need a 13mm.socket and extension to remove the three bolts. Two are easy to see the third one is back between the starter and the oil pan. You will also need a 8mm wrench to remove the small solenoid wire. Really is not a very hard job.
Should you need further help please just ask. Please rate the quality of the way I know the answer was helpful. Thank You for using Fix Ya.Roger

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P.S.
Check you positive side cable for corrosion and you might need to replace the cable because it runs from the battery direct to the starter and to the starter relay that is mounted on the right front fender under the hood. You have 2 (two) starter relays on your Explorer.

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