This is a common problem with higher mileage engines because of crankshaft, rod and camshaft bearing wear. You should test the effectiveness of the oil pressure sending units to determine they are functioning within normal parameters. A service manual maybe required to identify, how to test and to determine pressure ranges.
An easy fix to increase oil pressure is to use a heavier weight (higher viscosity number) oil, like 20W-50 - a straight 30W oil will work okay during the summer months. 20W-50 oil will work okay down to temperatures of 30 degrees, but you should use 10W-40 oils for lower temperatures.
Another fix and one that is generally recommended for long term benefit is to replace the oil pump with a new unit. The gears of the existing (OEM) one are generally worn from many miles of use. The increase in oil pressure may only be 2 - 4 psi, but could be enough to quiet the oil pressure warning system. Some later model vehicles with the same or larger displacement engines may have slightly larger oil pumps that can be retrofitted to earlier ones. You will need to research this for availability. If you find one, then this is the best way to go, aside from a complete engine tear-down and bearing replacement.
There is one other consideration although some might refer to this as the "snake oil" method. There are certain oil additives in the marketplace that could increase oil pressure. I cannot endorse any of them, but you could try one or more of them before considering the other options. I believe "Engine Restore" is one brand name. Again the heavier viscosity oils will do more for increasing oil pressure.
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I looked at info for 1500--5.7L engine. 6 psi @ 1000 rpms 18 psi@2000 rpms 24 psi @ 4000 rpms
Sometimes, you can use analog gage in place of oil pressure sending unit and double check oil pressure that way. If oil pressure is actually low, if high mileage engine, I doubt replacing oil pump will help. I just wanted to add, check oil pressure engine warmed up.
This is normal. On your car, on a cold start the pressure will be around 75 PSI. After the engine warms an oil pressure of 15-20 PSI at idle is just what it should be. The oil pressure gauge should escalate when accelerating up a bit to. If your old school like me 15 PSI mean danger but tat Caddy is just fine.
If you have any comments please feel free to leave them here.
The thing to do is to remove the oil pressure sender and put a mechanical oil pressure gauge onto the fitting. Start the car (if it will start) and watch the mechanical gauge. If there is no oil pressure or very low oil pressure (less than 5 psi minimum), immediately stop the engine. Engine damage is sure to result with oil pressure that low. The cause of the low pressure will have to be diagnosed and corrected before running the engine again. Causes of low pressure could be worn engine bearings or a worn out oil pump. There could also be a restriction in the oil system such as a clogged filter or clogged oil pump pick up screen in the oil pan. The oil itself, if it is dirty and full of moisture will become like mayonnaise in the bottom of the pan at such cold temperatures and the oil pump will not be able to pick it up.
I know this won't be easy to do in -20 degree weather. But your car should be towed home or to a shop and not run again until this oil pressure check can be done. I'm hoping damage has not already occurred.
When the engine and oil are cold it will show a high pressure because of the viscosity of the oil. When it warms up the oil is thinner. If it doesn't drop below 20-25 psi at warm idle I wouldn't worry about it as that is normal.
I have a 99 blazer and ever since I have owned it, it reads lower in pressure when idling, but will go up too 40 while driving. This is normal for the vehicle. If the pressure gets real low, and stays low, it means its time for an oil change.
As long as the pressure goes up when you give it gas, it is fine.
Last week my 2001 Grand Cherokee with a 4.7 was dropping below 10 and my "check gauges" light and chime came on. My sending unit was bad. I could see it was bad because oil was getting through the unit and leaking very slow. It's located above the oil filter. Easy fix, but the unit was over $50 and the 1 1/16 special deep socket for sending units was over $10.
The pressure to be most concerned with is the reading in gear at idle with engine warmed up...Low end really should not be below 20. If pressure wanders, change the sending unit and check actual pressure with a mechanical gauge if necessary. The age and quality of your oil, as well as temperature all play a part in pressure, as well as internal wear from time & miles of use. If pressure changes with rpm, that is normal. 40psi is good while driving. need more info just ask.
It is normal for oil pressure to be higher when the oil is cold. As the oil heats up, it will thin out. Since your oil pump is driven faster with the acceleration of the engine, your pressure will also increase. On a engine up to full temp, your oil pressure will probably be around 20 psi and maybe up to 60 at full load. But on a cold engine, you may see 60 psi at idle. I dont know if your high oil pressure is causing your vehicle to stall, but maybe your running the wrong weight/type of oil for your truck. If you live in a extreme cold area, you may want to look into a block heater to help warm up your engine faster.