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Re: 94 toyota corolla
The alternator fuse is BOLTED onto the power feed bar under/inside the fuse box; you cannot pull it out; you have to remove the top/bottom of the fuse box to gain acccess to the bolt that holds the fuse to the big metal bar that branches power to the other fuses.
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I was going to say you had a short from the fuse to the relay. But since you have to play with the other relays, replace the fuse panel. Only thing is the harness goes with it. You can repair it with patience. Remove the battery and alternator cables on the side. Look down the side you will see two clips, release them and pull the panel up. There are several clips to release to get the bottom off. Repair what you see burnt.
It could be a very expensive mistake. Easy to destroy certain parts of the alternator that way. But even with a bad alternator, it could still start and run-until it runs the battery down. It is cranking over, isn't it?
And more worrisome is the health of your computers on the car. Begin by testing the ignition system-that is controlled by the computer. You need to check for spark on the spark plug wires. If you have a blue, snapping spark, the ignition system is probably good. If no spark, you had better have a person with a digital volt- ohm meter and a wiring diagram of the car examine it, and check the pcm.
I'm not sure about that alternator fuse. Some cars even have an in line fuse, and some still use fusible links as protection between the alternator and the battery. Sorry I can't help you more. Check for spark.
Your alternator is not charging the battery. Remove it and have it tested at your local parts store. Fully charge the battery with a charger. If the alternator tests good, reinstall it and start the car. Check the voltage at the battery and also at the alternator on the big charge wire terminal. Report the voltages here for additional troubleshooting steps.
Replacing the fuse the first time was the right move, becuase it could have been a fluke that it blew. Replacing it again and again was not! You should have found out EVERYTHING that the #2 fuse controlled and verified that the components weren't pulling excessive amperage (shorted condition). By replacing the fuse over and over, you might have made the problem worse by subjecting good components to something that was shorted.
BTW next time pick the oldest guy at autozone to help you, if the counter help knew their stuff they would have told you the same thing I just did!
The are several things that may be causing this:
Loose negative or positive connection on the battery.
Fuse or wire for your remote start is burnt or faulty.
Look for loose connections first, then the fuse and wire for the remote start (it should be the wire with the inline fuse). If these other 2 are good, then try to boost the vehicle and see if it starts. If it does, you have either something draining your battery (light on, bad alternator or connection, or a bad wire) and you should find the problem (if there is one) sooner rather than later so you don't get stranded somewhere.
there is a fuse near the battery on the fender. it is in single fuse holder originally had a cover on it but may not now.pull out fuse to see if burnt then look at the fuse holder and check for burnt terminal it happens to them all the time
You most likely have a burnt terminal in your Inside fuse block.Easiest way to check this is to remove the console trim panel next to the drivers side front of console,just pulls loose.Then while trying to start the engine reach down & wiggle the wring going into the front 68way connector.If it takes off & starts to crank you have a burnt terminal in the fuse block.If you remove the front connector (68 Way) there are 2 of these 68 ways in that block.You can look inside at the male terminals you will see one terminal with plastic melted around it.If you see this,that''s your problem!! You will need to find a used Fuse block at junkyard with same Part #.Very important to get same part!! Hope This helps
try checking your alternator, charge the batt and then try starting car if the car starts pull off your batt terminals and if car does stall out then 9 out of 10 the alternator is shot, if it doesn't then get a ac/dc tester then put it to the post on the alternator and if it is not putting out 13.8 or 14.o then you have to try to find a short, a bad wire, or a bad ground and if you cant find one then pull it out and bring it to a aoutozone or a advanced outo and have them bench test it.