I have a 1996 Saab 9000 CS that has been running fine. 105,000 miles. Direct Ignition Module failed and was replaced at 55,000 miles. Fuel pumps are original. Drove to work, and ran errands ran a little rough while backing. Six hours later it cranked fine but would not start. the outside temp had dropped to below freezing. Walked home.... Walked to work about 6 hours later and the car started, I drove 4 blocks parked and turned it off and it would not start again. Checked the plugs which were not wet (Gas was nearly empty and I was thinking water). The nearest SAAB repair is one state west so I'd prefer not to tow it if I can avoid it. Any ideas?
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I would be checking for spark right after it shuts off. No spark is something in the ignition getting hot and failing. I suppose the shop checked for codes? If no spark, possibly the crank position sensor or the ignition module-a shop can test both. Or if you take off the ignition module and take to a parts store, they should be able to test that. If you do have spark at the spark plugs when it will not start, check fuel pressure or see if pump is working. When it stalls, do you hear the pump come on with key on?
First thing to do is have someone check the computer for trouble codes. You'll have to figure out if it is a fuel or ignition problem. You can check for spark at the plugs and the fuel pressure. It could be a relay, the ignition module, coil, fuel pump, or a list of other things.
Need year and 4 or 6 cyl. Assuming 4 cyl, need to know year and miles. Is the check engine light on? Easiest way is to swap out. Have to be careful with the DIC. Must be attached to plugs, must be upright. Could get 4 plugs, make sure it is up right and attached to computer. See if there is spark. Usually foul electrical smell if DIC fails. Also could be CPS (Crank Shaft Positioning Sensor).
There are three relays all grouped together on the firewall on the passengers side. All three are related to your situated. We can eliminate one of them because you stated that the fuel pump is operating fine. Now that leaves the relay for the ECM(engine control module) this tells the injectors, cold start and run, when and how much fuel to supply and also controls ignition timing and spark advance. The third controls the AC compressor. Now I've got to remind you that I started working on fuel injection systems the day they started failing here in the US around 1972.These were such vehicles as Mercedes, Saab and Volvo. I've worked on every configuration, TBI, MPI, diesel etc.etc. I may on occasion cross one fact with another or mispronounce certain aspect of a system however, These three injectors are where you want to concentrate your efforts. With some finnesse you can swap the harnesses from one to another. If your car runs fine and your AC suddenly does not, then you know that that relay is faulty. Do this until you get your answer. Best of luck my friend, Dana
I would suspect the crankshaft position sensor is starting to fail. Sometimes the hose from the intercooler to the throttle body gets a hole in it where it passes by the exhaust. If it's neither of those two things someone should put a fuel pressure gauge on the car and monitor fuel pressure when the stalling issue occurs.
I have a 1999 Saab 9-5. I had a similiar problem. The car would always run cold. It would get hot and the engine would quit. It could be anywhere. One mile from start to 50 miles from start. Once it cooled down it would re-start but the cool down time was always different. Only difference for me was my car would crank, just not run. Replaced the crank position sensor ($60), no more problems! Good luck!
If you are on your original fuel pump, be advised that they are known to last, on average, about 100,000 miles. Another common fault, besides that and the direct ignition cassette you have already mentioned, is the crankshaft position sensor. The prelude to total failure of this component may prevent starting or cause stalling and rough running. The ECU needs the signal from this sensor to know when to signal the DIC to fire a particular plug.
Sounds like an ignition problem.. The Direct Ignition module in the turbo model can fail but is
tested and replaced.
Remove turn the , Direct Ignition module put the spark plugs in the holes, ground each
plug to the negative battery terminal by use of a wire about 2 feet
long and stripped at each plug. Crank over the engine
over watching the spark plugs. If there is a problem with the cassette, one
of the plugs will have no spark or a very weak spark. Also, when you
turn the ignition key off there should be a shower of sparks that runs all of the plugs simultaneously several times. DANGER BE CAREFUL ! ! ! EXTREMELY HIGH
VOLTAGE! There have been occasions when the Direct Ignition module would test ok
when turned upside down but would fail when turned back over to install
into the valve cover ? Also: Oil leakage from the individual coils of the Direct Ignition module have also been a problem. Oil leaks can be identified by
noting that there is oil surrounding spark plug hole. Hope this helps. Cheers MMP
Try this simple solution, Buy some fuel conditioner additive from auto parts supplier, to clean out any water contamination in fuel, run through a full tank and then replace fuel filter. The fuel pump on the model has been known to stop when it comes in contact with water, so it may fix your problem. All the best..