Question about 2001 Ford Ranger Regular Cab
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: ford ranger truck overheating
I have had this happen with my ranger. Changed everything I could to try to fix the over heating. It turned out that I had a small leak in my head gasket and it was allowing exsaust gas to go into the cooling system witch was over pressurizing it. Also the air from the exsaust will heat up much faster than liquid making your thermostat to read hot and will not be able to blow hot air in the cab because there is no liquid going to the heater core. This happened to me when my blet came off and I tryed to make it home. If you had it over heat for a long peirod of time it may have ripped the head gasket.
Posted on Feb 21, 2009
for the most part it is under the hood of your car where the sticker say engine size try this website to see if they have you car listed its www.autozone.com if not call your local part store and tell them its a 4.0 liter and you need the gap on the spark plugs
Posted on Apr 20, 2009
fuel pump shut off switch and reset is located on the right hand side floor board underneath the floor carpet, just pull carpet back.
Posted on Sep 26, 2009
DANGEROUS CHEMICAL NOTICE REGARDING GLYCOL BASED COOLANT: WASH DOWN THE WORK AREA COMPLETELY WITH WATER REMOVING ALL TRACES OF COOLANT. ANIMALS AND SMALL CHILDREN LIKE THE TASTE OF COOLANT AND IT IS FATAL- REPEAT- FATAL, THIS COULD BE YOUR CHILD OR PET. DISPOSE OF COOLANT PROPERLY, CHECK WITH YOUR LOCAL GARAGE OR AUTO PARTS STORE.
Viewing the engine from the front of the car, there is a plastic cover between the FWD cylinder bank and the front frame. Remove the 3x screws w/ 7mm; there is the WP on the right hand side at the bottom of the belt.
WITH THE ENGINE DEAD (overnight) COLD
REMOVE the battery completely, 10mm wrench for clamps, deep 10mm for hold-down nuts.
Place a nice size (3gal) tub under the car and loosen the coolant cap- left side, looking aft.
Remove the clamps on the short rubber hose between the forward metal pipe that runs under the fwd cyl, bank and the thermostat assembly; remove the short rubber hose.
Below the thermostat is an electrical connector (MTX), push down on the tab, pull back out of the way. bag it if you're paranoid or just use a good contact cleaner upon re-assembly
Undo the 1 in diam. coolant hose just aft of the thermostat assembly; that's why there's a coupler there.
Remove the FWD of the thermostat assembly, 2 x 8mm, remove T-stat an crushed O-ring, replace both upon re-assembly... about $12.00
On the top left side of the belt tensioner, there's a notch for a screwdriver blade. Push the tensioner back and remove the belt. Remove the tensioner assembly 1x 8mm.
Remove all bolts holding the WP, (Long and short 8mm and 1/4 in flex drive is really nice) start at the thru-bolt nearest the top and lay out in sequence of removal on the plastic trim piece in front of the front windscreen (96)
Look down from the top of the WP and you will see an area where you can place a large screwdriver blade and GENTLY torque off the right side of the WP.
Scrape off the old gasket material on the engine side, look for debris and trouble.
NOT IN THE MANUAL! Affix the new WP gasket to the WP with a THIN coating of #2 NON-hardening Permatex; do NOT use on the engine side. Align all holes on the gasket, remove excess, set by gently warming with a hair dryer. Make sure it's tacky enough that the gasket doesn't move around
Replace WP, replace bolts in sequence with a final cross-pattern torquing of ONE finger's torque on the wrench.
Replace new thermostat vent rivet to the top, O-ring goes on the outside of the assy. connect front of assembly 2x 8mm
Clean electrical connector with spray contact cleaner that IS SAFE for plastic, DO NOT use brake-kleen. Check to make sure it's locked down.
Replace WP drive belt per decal on front frame.
Replace short connector hose and clamps .
Re-connect 1" coolant line
Replace a few quarts of coolant and check for leaks, engine off (Don't ask me why)NO LEAKS? Proceed.
Replace front cover, 3x 7mm
Install battery, fire up, check for leaks
WASH DOWN THE WORK AREA COMPLETELY WITH WATER REMOVING ALL TRACES OF COOLANT. ANIMALS AND SMALL CHILDREN LIKE THE TASTE OF COOLANT AND IT IS FATAL- REPEAT- FATAL, THIS COULD BE YOUR CHILD OR PET. DISPOSE OF COOLANT PROPERLY, CHECK WITH YOUR LOCAL GARAGE OR AUTO PARTS STORE.
Tip - MUST HAVE Tool
For anyone working on a car's cooling system, you MUST check out the MUST-HAVE tool for dealing with those spring-type hose clamps!!
This tool has a pinching device on the end to securely grab the 'ears' on the hose clamp - squeeze the handle to open the clamp, and then automatically lock it open.
The next awesome feature of this tool: the clamping action is on the end of a cable - you work it down to the clamp buried down underneath, or directly next to some part of the engine - minimal clearance required
Posted on Dec 18, 2009
b y removing the timing belt cover and all the belts.
Posted on Mar 10, 2010
Testimonial: "Thanks, zaldyboy01, this helpful and I'll give it a try tomorrow. I'll let you know the outcome. Thanks again, MC"
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