Question about Rover 75

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Have a rover 75 s reg car wont go into gear when engine is switched in

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6 Suggested Answers

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SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: The clutch on the car keeps getting stuck, when

Check your clutch master cylinder, is it full of fluid, if not go to the clutch slave cylinder, mounted on front side of transmission right where engine and transmission come together, see if it is leaking, you may need to pull back the rubber dust cover a little, if it is leaking then replace it and bleed the clutch, (just like brakes). If there are no leaks and the master is full you may have a clutch problem, more than likely though it is a leaking slave cylinder, Hope this helps, let me know

Posted on Jan 20, 2010

  • 286 Answers

SOURCE: rover 216 p-reg no spark al all from plug


Sounds like the ECU ...( Electrical Control Box) under the seat, I had one that did just the same 2 yrs back.

The car breakers is your best bet for another.

Good Luck !

Don´t forget to give a FixYa rating please !

Let me know how you get on !

Posted on Feb 02, 2009

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SOURCE: rover 75 v6 starts no problem runs 1000 rpm then

check idle speed sensor on your intake manifold around 700 to 750 rpm is normal ,air temp may efect idle speed .

Posted on Sep 17, 2009

Ian  Hot Tub
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SOURCE: I have a Rover 75 and I have noticed that the


It's a very big MG-Rover forum and you should find it a useful source of info.

If you decide to register enter my username as a referrer: HotTubRepairer


Posted on Apr 09, 2010

  • 1547 Answers

SOURCE: My car is over revving

They have a good tendency to block inside. Take it out and have it rodded out by a competent rad shop. This should only cost around 50-70 US$ and will give your rad a second live. Have at the same time installed a release valve to empty the rad next time. Another good idea is to have 2 fittings installed for a possible later installation of thermo switches. One can activate an electric fan while the other may switch an warning light.
Range Rover rads are even more vulnerable as they have a side-to-side flow while the Defenders have a upper-lower flow.
You can check the rad easily by feeling for cold spots when the engine is warm. Any difference in temperature indicates a weak spot.
There are several different sizes of interchangeable radiators with different cooling abilities. Some have an intercooler built in, others have an oil cooler. Some even have both. From the engineering point of view it's not the best idea to mix tasks. If you want to go for the maximum water cooling get an rad that only cools water. I believe early Turbo Diesels had the biggest ones but I may be wrong on this. Talk to one of the rad specialists for Land Rovers and they will surely tell you what's the best. An oil cooler for engine oil is is normally not needed but can be fitted as an aftermarket unit below the radiator. If you have an automatic box you must use an transmission oil cooler. This one can be mounted in front of the normal rad but it will block off some air and heat up the other rad- not the best idea. But you haven't much choice.
The Intercooler needed for the TDi engine is another story. The factory ones are WAY too small to reduce intake temp to good levels. If you get an aftermarket unit it will lower the air temp by up to 40 degrees Centigrade allowing for 12% more power without other modifications except adjusting mixture.
Those can only be mounted in front of the radiator but heat output on the TDi is much lower than on the V8 and generally no problem at all.
3. The thermostat An ugly little piece that hides behind the distributor and has a tendency to stick. If you suspect it junk it out. They aren't expensive and can stick in any position. You can get them in various ratings, the lowest being 74°C. But remember that an engine is more efficient the hotter it runs (but not boiling). You can even get aftermarket thermostats with a buil-in safety. It's a small metal tube that extends when the engine overheats and forces the thermostat to open and stay open. You might to have to shop around a bit to find them and they are almost double as expensive as standard units but worth every Penny. And they must be replaced once the engine overheated as the unit can't close again.
4. The ignition timing The V8's are sensible to ignition timing. If the timing is about 4-5° off you will get an overheating engine. I've set mine at 8° BTDC at 800 rpm (for an 3.5 EFI).
5. Corroded block The aluminium block is very vulnerable to corrosion if the wrong coolant is used. You MUST use coolant designed for use in aluminium engines. Corrosion can partially block the water galleys and make an insulation that prevents heat transfer. Once you have this corrosion you have a problem that can only be resolved by stripping and dismantling the engine. Corrosion can even make holes inside the cylinders, allowing the water to leak inside.
6. The cylinder head gasket. Hey, that's my favorite one. The Rover engine has a special design fault in his heads.


Posted on Dec 17, 2010

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2 Answers

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I have a Rover 75 and I have noticed that the temperature guage is fluctuating between normal and the top (red) overheating on the scale. This process is happening fairly quickly. It moved from normal to...


It's a very big MG-Rover forum and you should find it a useful source of info.

If you decide to register enter my username as a referrer: HotTubRepairer


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Rover 75 v6 starts no problem runs 1000 rpm then

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