Question about 1999 Ford Expedition

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My expedition is a 2000 with 5.4 i have put a new water pump, therm. and upper rad.hose and cap, clutch fan still no heat and it keeps pushing antifreez out the over flow wat is my problem

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  • 1,511 Answers

The problem is a hose clamp

Posted on May 09, 2014

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

cj2176
  • 520 Answers

SOURCE: 1999 expedition overheating

Sometimes fords can be tricky. Try to be sure that all of the air is purged from the system. I usually do this with a manual release cap. run the engine then slowly release the pressure. then the system will stabilize. If that doesn't help then you may have something restricting flow inside the water jackets through the engine. some shops have those nifty little cameras that they can run through the system to look for potential problems. hope it works out for you. I know how how much of a pain some of these problems can be. Good luck.

Posted on May 12, 2009

blueextc3221
  • 15935 Answers

SOURCE: 2001 Ford Taurus upper radioator hose replacement

2 clamps.
you can have it done in 20 minutes with a pliers or phillips screwdriver (depending if the hose clamp has been changed before.)

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Posted on May 13, 2009

  • 40 Answers

SOURCE: Upper Rad Hose bulging when engine hot

The hose needs to be changed. It is most likely bulging do to the inner fibers breaking. It could have started do to over heating but can be because of age. Never the less change the hose and you should think about changing the heater core out because it may get cold and heat is nice to have when it gets cold.

Posted on Jun 21, 2009

  • 447 Answers

SOURCE: is there a valve going to the heater core that can

No, there isn't a valve in the system. Coolant flows through the core all the time.

Posted on Dec 21, 2010

  • 1243 Answers

SOURCE: 2000 FORD EXPEDITION OVERHEATING....changed thermostat,radiator

yes. the impellor on these engines have a tendency to come off the water pump.First you can see if the pump is working by removing a heater hose then have someone to start the engine. if the water sprays a good, solid stream out then the water pump is good. if the water just barely comes out or not at all then the pump is weak or "bad".

Posted on Aug 13, 2011

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2 Answers

We changed thermostat sensor and thermostat, still over heating. What could it be?


overheating has many symptoms, not just green on the ground
do tell?


temp gauge lies its buns off... use a real tool called a thermometer to see real temps. we use a IR pyro gun to see it and not GET burnt.

gauges is telling truth, so......................


a bad rad cap, or bad thermostat are common fails.
test one: (dead cold engine) never hot.
radiator tank filler cap off , you look down there, is the level really low?
(forget the silly side expansion tank for now)
if found low , then fill it and burp it. no air allowed there
running 50% antifreeze now? no?, that its WRONG.
the tool is $2, test it. (Prestone sells it)
the coolant is all rusty color, (ill not comment ) try service.

  1. Green on the ground,? for passengers feet.
  2. Water exploding from overfill side tank? ( oil in RAD or Milky engine oil) (same milk in transmission pan?)Exploding gases, on cold start is bad head gasket or warped head or cracked head/block, or just simple overheating, The Rad leak down test and the exhaust test (green/blue ) tests solve this riddle easy.
  3. Steam rising from hood or Radcap, or hose to Cap and recovery tank. Over heating or leaks.
  4. Dash gauge pegged. (or WILD GAUGE swings "air pockets below thermostat") or gauge bad. sender bad.
  5. Motor pinging and loss of power. (do not allow pinging, it will wreck the engine)
  6. Pistons landing on ground? (just joking....)
  7. A/C dies?, does it?, due to A/C engine overheat switch ,tripping off. a 235 ?F (spec) see FSM. A/C means Air conditioner clutch dead.
  8. Does the engine over heat , if left idling a long time (30min-1hr). or only at stop signs or red lights? (clutch fan not activating , check it, this way.)
  9. Does it only over heat while moving ? ( a bad pump, or Rad)
  10. Overheats, only on hills? (bad RAD)
  11. Only overheats pulling heavy loads ? (inside, full of bricks, or pulling a 1000 trailer ? ONLY?
  12. Never overheats moving fast on flat ground. (so the RAD fan is dead, no mater if stock or hacked in electric fan, it's DEAD)
  13. Do you have carbon or oil floating around in the Rad, filler CAP neck top tank ? yes?, that is bad head gasket or worse cracked block/head. Do the Exhaust test.
  14. Overheats under all conditions, Catastrophic overheat. ( can be bad pump (rotor gone) or RAD or system is packed up)
  15. Seems to overheat , even at first start , in 1min or less I have gases shooting into the overfill tank, that is a bad head gasket (mostly a warped head, at least)
  16. Antifreeze (and water) in the pans, Engine or Transmission.
  17. The RAD fan is DEAD ( just because a mechanical RAD fan coasts, don't mean it WORKS RIGHT.) See the clutch tests below. if electric fan , there is a test in the FSM covers this 100% the fan must come on over heated,.
  18. my electric fan , starts to run idling engine long time at 225F. It kicks on, some cars have 2 fan and staged, come on trip points.
  19. RTM read the manual the FSM>
  20. there is more im sure, cant think of them all now.

That pyro gun allows me to test any RAD easy , ask.
ok , i check all rad tube top and bottom and bingo find any tube clogged fast. if all are equally clogged.(partial) i cant find that.
that is caused by zero service, so...and there are signs for that too.


Jul 02, 2014 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

I have a 84 351 windsor that runs way to hot i put


seems to me that you could have an air lock, try loosening the rad cap slightly and run car until fans kicks in, squeeze upper rad hose a few times to push any air out. Careful with hot hoses. see if this helps.

Apr 27, 2010 | 1991 Ford Mustang

2 Answers

Dodge neon


drain coolant,follow upper rad hose to thermostat housing,undo hose,therm.cover,take therm.out,clean mating surfaces install new therm.and gasket.

Sep 17, 2009 | 1997 Dodge Neon

5 Answers

Keeps over heating i have new radator old one blew out this seems to be doing same i have buy past heater core and removed therm stat,what is wrong???


sounds like a head gasket leak, you can buy a kit at your local auto parts store , that you can stick on your radiator and will change color if exhaust gasses are present in the cooling system. alumiseal does a great job of sealing leaks on the straight 6 motors on these models

Aug 15, 2009 | 1999 Jeep Cherokee

1 Answer

Water Pump Leaking


the hardest part of this job is removing your fan clutch. you removed your top fan shroud, then your fan clutch, its reverse thread. take off your belt, upper radiator hose and 6 10mm bolts hold it in. clean water pump housing and put all back together. aftermarket water pumps do not come with theermostat, dealer pumps do. remove your belt tensioner from old water pump 3- 15mm bolt, two different sizes and install on your new pump. you need, 10mm socket, 15mm socket, flat head screw driver, pliers to removed hose,fan clutch tool(rent at autoparts store)

May 05, 2009 | 2000 Chevrolet Suburban

3 Answers

Radiator


the upper rad hose goes from the rad to the thermostate housing. this hose is @2-21/2" the lower hose same size goes from lower rad to water pump. There is a 5/8 hose from water pump to thermostate housing called bypass hose. and you have two hoses from water pump and intake to the heater core. hope this helps if not let me know thanks

Jan 18, 2009 | 2000 Dodge Durango

1 Answer

HOW DO I CHANGE THE WATER PUMP ON A 99 JEEP GRAND CHEROKEE ?


At least you have the 4 liter 6. Once you get all the **** out of the way its like replacing a W/P on an "old school" engine, very much like a Ford or Chevy straight 6. 1) Remove radiator top retainer (the metal U that looks like its the top of the radiator (#13 or 14mm sockets I think). 2) To completely get if off you also have to remove the grill (4-6 phillips screws), then 3) unbolt it from the tubular bumper retainers underneath the grill. 4) DO NOT remove the latch cable - no need. 5) Remove the top bolts holding down the fan shroud. Lift the shroud off its bottom "tabs" and push over the fan. 6) Using #10mm socket remove fan from fan clutch, then remove bolts holding fan clutch onto water pump pulley. 7) Pull out shroud, then fan, then fan clutch. Be very patient, lots of wiggling may be needed. 8) Locate belt tensioner on idler puller below the Power steering pump. Losen very little the pulleys center bolt (10mm), then use a 10mm w/entension to losen the pulley's tension (use counter clockwise/normal rotation to losen). 9) Draw a diagram of the belt routing - you will Never remember it correctly otherwise. 10) Tap the w/p pully and pull if off - do not hit radiator fins! 11) Drain the radiator (clockwise/right rotation opens petoc from factory radiators - counterclock used on aftermaket rads). 12) Remove lower raditor hose at radiator, then at pump (it will be a challenge). 13) Remove upper radiator hose from rad and from thermostat housing. 14) losen the Rubber heater hose from the metal hose screwed into the W/P. 15) Remove 4 bolts from W/P (13 or 14mm I think). The one at the 4oclock position is longer than the others. One is hidden at 6oclock.
16) Remove 2 bolts (14-15mm??) on bottom of Power Steering mount - these go through the W/P case to the block. You may also need to losen the top PS bolts so the PS Bracket can be loose at the W/P case. 17) Wiggle the W/P out from under the PS bracket. and pull off. (16b if needed, remove the upper idler pulley near the A/C unit.) 18) Remove the Thermostat (upper hose return) housing. Scrape off old gasket. Replace with 160deg or 190deg thermostat. Use silicone on gasket. 19) Carefully use a 17 or 19mm box wrench to remove the metal heater hose return line from the upper part of the old water pump. Coat threads with spark plug thread antiseize and screw onto new W/P. 20) Install new W/P gasket w/silcone, be careful to Not block the water holes. 21) Slide W/P under the P/S bracket and jiggle into place. Hand thread one of the top bolts to hold the W/P in place. 22) Insert the P/S bracket bolts and lightly tighten. 23) Jiggle W/P around and insert other bolts, start with the 6oc hidden bolt. Add remaining bolts and tighten to 25 or 250?ftlb (about 3/4 past socket-snug). 24) Tighten ALL P/S bolts. 25) Adjust metal heater pipe. Reinstall rubber heater hose. 26) Reinstall W/P pulley and Fan clutch, and upper idler if it was removed. 27) Thread NEW Belt on pulleys. 28) Tighten tension on idler. Tighten idler axle bolt. 29) Install lower rad hose. 30) Slide shroud over pulleys. 31) Install fan on clutch. 32) Clip shroud retainer bolt mounts back on top of radiator. 33) Install shroud. 34) Connect upper hose. 35) Reinstall radiator retainer. 36) Bolt retainer to Tubular bumper mounts. 37) Reinstall grill. 38) Wonder where the extra bolts etc are supposed to go. 39) Cuss - pray -cuss - pray. 40 ) sip some beer. 41) carefully inspect everything to ensure its back to the way it looked before (several pictures from a digital camera taken during the disassembly will help). 42) Close the rad petok. 43) Add 1 gallons of antifreeze. 44) Start engine and add another gallon of A/F. 45) Turn heater controls to HOT inside (no need for fan). 46) Water guage should show 180 to 210F. 47) Add 1 gallon of water. 48) Install New 18PSI rad cap. 49) Turn off engine and add water or A/F to overflow tank. 50) 1 hour later open Cap to see if level has settled. Add Water as needed to fill rad.

Dec 24, 2008 | 2000 Jeep Grand Cherokee

2 Answers

2002 V.W. Jetta 2.0 liter overheat


turn your heater on to max heat and high fan. then see if you can feel the hoses on the firewall for heat they should be hot. make sure that the fan unit on the radiatoris working if the upper radiator hose is hot the fans should be running if they are not that means that either the relay is bad the thermo sensor is bad or the fan unit is shot... please rate the solution..........thanks

Sep 24, 2008 | 2002 Volkswagen Jetta TDI

1 Answer

98 runner cooling issues


You probably have airlock in the cooling system.

Not sure about the 4 runner's cooling system, but if there is airlock I usually take the coolant back out, take the thermostat back out, fill the engine block from this hole with 50/50 coolant, reinstall the thermostat, upper hose, fill the radiator and tank, then run the vehicle with the heater on max (rad cap off) and then fill the rad as the rest of the air comes out.

Aug 15, 2008 | 1998 Toyota 4Runner

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