Question about 1989 Mazda MPV

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1989 Mazda MPV V6 RWD: Intermittent starting problem. Battery checks out good, and just replaced starter/solenoid. connections are good at both the battery and the starter. Solenoid clicks but engine does not turn over. after several tries the engine cranks and starts. sometimes will start several times in a row and then the problem occurs for a while. What am I missing?

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  • Craig Smith Feb 13, 2012

    As I mentioned, the starter/solenoid were just replaced with little to no effect.

  • yadayada
    yadayada Feb 13, 2012

    Then either you have a poor connection at the positive battery cable to the starter (heavy cable) or the battery posts are not making a good connection or the battery has a dead cell. Do a voltage drop test on the positive cable to the starter.

  • yadayada
    yadayada Feb 13, 2012

    You say new starter, but is it new or rebuilt? If rebuilt many times the contacts do not get replaced if the starter bench tests ok, they just clean it up and package it. Autozone, Kragen/O'reilly or other discount parts stores do this, the come back rate is horrible, I have personally seen dozens of these so called rebuilds that were defective right out of the box. Suggest if it a low cost rebuilt you return it for intermittent no start problems and request a refund and buy a rebuilt from a parts store like NAPA or Carquest, their rebuilts are the best around.

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  • Mazda Master
  • 75,822 Answers

More than likely the starter solenoid has burnt contacts in it, this is a common problem with all Denso designed starter motors used in almost all Japanese cars and light trucks. You can either try and find a solenoid or just replace the starter. The solenoid can be repaired if you can find the contact kit for it, most are available on line for about $20, just google it.

Posted on Feb 13, 2012

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6ya6ya
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: where are the spark plugs

Here's where I found mine on my 2000 protege.

First you're not looking for the right wire type! If you're looking for a standard 1/4" black wire that would normally run from a distributor cap to the plug you would be wrong... so:


Look right on top of the aluminum engine block and you will see the word Mazda and behind that you'll see your engine size. Between the two you'll see a round black rubber grommet and two black blocks with wires running through them (these are the ignition coils). If you look closely you'll see another rubber grommet under all the wiring. Your plugs are under all that wiring in about 4" deep wells.

First you will need to remove four bolts that hold the coils into place (2) per for a total of (4) bolts. If I recall correctly you will need a 10mm socket to get these out.

Before continuing mark each of the four cables with a number (1-4, left to right) so you don't get these mixed up.

Next pull on the rubber grommet labeled #1 (NOT THE WIRE) and pull it all the way out. You will see your plug waaaay down below.

Hints: Using a 6" extension on your socket remove all the old plugs first. When doing so use the rubber sleeve that is inside the socket to help get the plug out of the well.

When putting the new plugs in remove the rubber sleeve from inside the socket so that the socket can be pulled off the plug and out of the well.


Notes:
1.) Always use an anti-seize compound on the threads of the new spark plugs. This can be purchased along with the plugs.
2.) NEVER over-tighten. Snug is 'snuff.
Hope that helps.






Posted on Dec 24, 2008

StormStrikes
  • 104 Answers

SOURCE: how do i get the trouble codes off a 1989 mazda mpv?

http://img178.imageshack.us/img178/3331/obdikx3.jpg

The above link is to a diagram of your ALDL connector, all you need is a paper clip, straighten out the paper clip and insert one end into the diagnostic test pin and one in the system ground pin (terminals A & B).

Then put the key in the ignition and turn it to the on position but DO NOT start the engine. You will then see the check engine light flash. It will initially start by flashing once, then a pause and then flash twice and it will repeat this three times. That flash sequence indicates 12, which just means the system is operating. Its the flash sequences after that that will give you the code if any are stored.

For instance if it flashes twice, then pauses, then flashes four times, thats code 24. So any flash sequence you get after the initial 12 (flash once, pause, flash twice) you need write those down. Below is a list of diagnostic codes to tell you what the codes mean.

Code 12
1 flash, pause, 2 flashes
Diagnostic: This Code will flash whenever the diagnostic terminal is grounded with the ignition switch turned on and the engine is not running.

Code 13
1 flash, pause 3 flashes
Oxygen sensor voltage stays between 0.35 and 0.55 volts for 30 seconds when the TPS signal was above 0.55 volts. The engine had been running for at least 40 seconds with an engine temperature above 110° F.

Code 14
1 flash, pause, 4 flashes
Coolant temperature sensor signal indicates a temperature of over 284° F for 4 seconds after the engine had been running for at least 10 secondsCoolant Sensor Circuit (high temperature) If the engine is experiencing overheating problems, have those fixed before continuing. Check all wiring and connectors associated with the coolant temperature sensor. Replace the Coolant temperature sensor.

Code 15
1 flash, pause, 5 flashes
Coolant Sensor Circuit (low temperature) Coolant temperature sensor signal indicates a temperature colder than -36° F for at least 4 seconds after the engine had been running for 2 seconds. See above, then check wiring connections at the ECM

Code 16
1 flash, pause, 6 flashes
Charging system voltage was either below 9 volts or above 17 volts for 10 seconds. System High Voltage If the voltage is above 17.1 volts for more than 2 seconds, the Service Engine Soon light will illuminate. Have the charging system checked.

Code 17
1 flash, pause, 7 flashes
PCM did not detect any spark reference pulses within 240 fuel control reference pulses (80 crank revolutions) while engine was running below 1200 RPM. Spark Reference Circuit.

Code 21
2 flashes, pause, 1 flash
Throttle Position Sensor, TPS voltage was above 0.8 volts for 5 seconds when engine was running and air flow was less than 15 gm/sec, or the TPS voltage was over 4.8 volts at any time.

Code 22
2 flashes, pause, 2 flashes
Throttle Position Sensor check TPS adjustment. Replace the TPS sensor. TPS voltage was under 0.2 volts for 4 seconds when the ignition was on. Check for a sticking, or mis-adjusted throttle position sensor.

Code 23
2 flashes, pause, 3 flashes
Inlet air temperature sensor signal showed an air temperature of -29° F for 4 seconds. Manifold Air Temperature. Check the MAT sensor, wiring, and connectors for a possible open circuit. replace the MAT sensor.

Code 24
2 flashes, pause, 4 flashes
Vehicle speed sensor signal showed less than 3 MPH for 2 seconds when engine speed was greater than 3000 RPM and transmission has not been in park or neutral for more than 4 seconds. Or vehicle speed goes from above 18 MPH to 0 in less than 2 seconds without applying brake. This code can only appear when the vehicle is in motion, if it appears when the car is not in motion, ignore it. Check ECM connections, any other problems should be diagnosed by a qualified mechanic.

Code 25
2 flashes, pause, 5 flashes
Inlet air temperature sensor signal showed an air temperature of over 218° F for 5 seconds when vehicle speed was greater than 35 MPH. Check the voltage between the MAT sensor and the ECM. voltage should be above 4 volts.

Code 26
2 flashes, pause, 6 flashes
Quad-Driver sense voltage shows a low voltage when battery voltage should be present, or if the sense voltage shows battery voltage when a low voltage should be present for at least 5 seconds when the engine was running. Have the car checked by a dealer.

Code 27
2 flashes, pause, 7 flashes
2nd gear switch was closed or grounded for 10 seconds when vehicle was in 4th gear, or 2nd or 4th gear switch was open when engine was first started. Gear switch Diagnosis Have the car checked by a dealer.

Code 28
2 flashes, pause, 8 flashes
3rd gear switch was closed or grounded for 10 seconds when vehicle was in 4th gear, or 3rd or 4th gear switch was open when engine was first started.

Code 29
2 flashes, pause, 9 flashes
4th gear switch was closed or grounded for 10 seconds when vehicle was in 4th gear, or 4th gear switch was open when engine was first started.

Code 31
3 flashes, pause, 1 flash
PRNDL indicates a gear other than park or neutral for 13 seconds for 3 consecutive startups when ignition was on, engine was off and vehicle speed was 0. Or the PRNDL status indicators (A, B, C, P) showed an incorrect combination of Lo and Hi for more than 10 seconds.
Check all connectors, and for a faulty switch.

Code 32
3 flashes, pause 2 flashes
EGR System Check vacuum hoses and connections for leaks and restrictions. Replace the EGR solenoid or valve.

Code 33
3 flashes, pause, 3 flashes
MAF Sensor Have the mass air flow sensor replaced.

Code 34
3 flashes, pause, 4 flashes
There was no MAF signal for over 4 seconds while engine was running. Check for loose or damaged air duct, misadjusted minimum idle speed and cacuum leaks. Inspect the MAF sensor and the electrical connections.

Code 38
3 flashes, pause, 8 flashes
The Torque Converter Clutch portion of the brake switch was open and caused the TCC to be inoperative, adjust OR replace switch.

Code 39
3 flashes, pause, 9 flashes
Torque Converter Clutch Check ECM connections, check for faulty Torque Conver Clutch solenoid.

Code 41
3 flashes, pause, 1 flash
Cam sensor signal was not received by PCM for the last 5 seconds while engine was running. Check for faulty connections, or a faulty cam sensor. Maybe also indicate a problem with the vehicle's timing chain.

Code 42
4 flashes, pause, 2 flashes
The Electronic Spark Timing (EST) signal did not change when the ECM applied bypass voltage to the ignition module. Check for faulty connections, or a faulty ignition module.

Code 43
4 flashes, pause, 3 flashes
Knock sensor signal was either above 3.5 volts or below 1.5 volts for at least 20 seconds. Check for a faulty knock sensor, or Mem-Cal.

Code 44
4 flashes, pause, 4 flashes
Oxygen sensor voltage was under 0.25 volts for up to 4 1/2 minutes of closed loop operation, lean exhaust. Check the ECM wiring connections. Check for vacuum leaks at the hoses and intake manifold gasket.

Code 45
4 flashes, pause, 5 flashes
Oxygen sensor voltage was over 0.75 volts for 2 minutes in closed loop operation with a throttle angle between 0.6 and 1.9 volts. Rich exhaust. Check the evaporative charcoal canister and its components for the presence of fuel.

Code 46
4 flashes, pause, 6 flashes
Power Steering pressure switch Check for faulty connections, or a faulty switch.

Code 48
4 flashes, pause 8 flashes
Misfire Diagnosis. Check the ignition and fuel systems.

Code 51
5 flashes, pause, 1 flash
Prom or Mem-Cal Make sure the MEM-Cal or prom is properly installed in the ECM. Replace Mem-Cal or prom.

Code 52
5 flashes, pause, 2 flashes
Cal-Pak Check the Cal-Pak to insure properation. replace the Cal-Pak.


Code 54
5 flashes, pause, 4 flashes
EGR #2 solenoid was out of range for 6 of 8 tests. 55 EGR #3 solenoid was out of range for 3 of 5 tests.

Code 55
5 flashes, pause, 5 flashes
ECM Check for faulty connections. Replace the ECM.

Code 56
5 flashes, pause, 6 flashes
Quad-driver voltage was incorrect for 5 seconds on the circuit connected to QDM "B".

Code 57
5 flashes, pause, 7 flashes
Boost control solenoid did not open bypass valve causing engine torque to be too high.

Code 63
6 flashes, pause, 3 flashes
EGR flow was incorrect. EGR solenoid did not work properly. Have vehicle serviced by a dealer.

Code 64
6 flashes, pause, 4 flashes
Same as Code 63 EGR flow was incorrect. EGR solenoid did not work properly.

Code 65
6 flashes, pause, 5 flashes
Same as Code 63.

Posted on Dec 31, 2008

  • 259 Answers

SOURCE: 2000 Mazda MPV-DX 2.5L V6 won't turn over just clicks.

yes it could be the starter next time it won't start give the starter motor a tap with a hammer or wheel brace also check where the small blade connector is there should be a fuse in line could be the problem hope this helps regards Jim

Posted on Apr 21, 2009

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: 1997 Mazda MPV, 3-Ltr. V6, destroys Timing Belt

i need help install a timebelt in a mazda mpv? please help me out

Posted on Aug 05, 2009

  • 1071 Answers

SOURCE: timing marks on 1993 mazda mpv

they are usually on the valve covers at the edge above gears

Posted on Aug 19, 2009

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1 Answer

My car won't start


Check battery terminals for corrosion (white powdery stuff). Next, test battery for free at auto parts shop. If good, check starter solenoid.

Apr 28, 2014 | 2006 Mazda MPV

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How to replace the starter of mazda mpv


First remove battery connection and then wires and connection from starter . then you will need to remove starter bolts.should be only two holding it in place....hope this helps and good luck....Please rate this post..

Aug 15, 2012 | 1998 Mazda MPV

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1989 MAZDA MPV NO CRANK NO START STARTER TESTS GOOD.


Assuming you've checked the battery for a possible short and both the battery and the starter for loose connections, no click sounds like a faulty starter solonoid, which could work intermittently.

Jan 06, 2012 | 1989 Mazda MPV

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1995 Mazda mpv, was running fine, went to the shops & came back no problems hour later will not start have checked battery, fuses, has plenty of charge but will not crank. what could it be it wont...


could be the starter or it could be the starter solenoid.
if you want to test --- take your volt meter and measure the positive wire going to the starter while someone inside the car tries to start the car,, you are measuring between the solenoid and the starter --- if you have 12 volts there then your solenoid is good and the starter is bad,, but I think if I remember it right that the solenoid and the starter are sold as a complete unit --- you can also remove that power cable going to the starter and with a pair of jumper cables ( use only the positive clamp ) ,, clamp one side to the + side of the battery and take the other side and touch the positive post on the starter,, if the starter jumps then the starter is good and the solenoid is bad. be careful not to touch the body of the starter while doing this test, ( damage to the starter or battery can happen if you short it out ).
also check you main fuse to make sure that is not blown...

c...

Dec 31, 2010 | Mazda MPV Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

How to drop the starter motor out of the car to the floor? I have a 1999 Mazda mpv v6


I'm assuming 2wd. Disconnect the negative battery terminal. Jack the passenger side and place on a safety stand. Starter bolts (2 or 3) are threaded from rear of vehicle towards the front and they are visible and accessible. The starter is removed by removing the mounting bolts (removing the bottom bolt last). These are likely 14mm heads with threadlock on them. They are tough to break loose...use a breaker bar. Once bolts are removed, push the starter towards the front of the vehicle while at the same time tipping the front of the starter down. There are two connections on the magnetic switch (solenoid) on top of the starter...with the starter tipped down you can access the nut on one connection by using extensions (about 8 inches) on the ratchet. The second connection is a clip-on wire. You simply squeeze the connector to release. The starter can then be fished through the gap at the cross member and behind the power steering pump. Tight, but very doable. Nothing else has to be removed, regardless of what you may read. Good luck.

Jul 27, 2010 | 1999 Mazda MPV

1 Answer

How do I change a starter in a 1989 5.2 liter dodge ram truck?


REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
Gasoline Engines



88dac70.jpg


Fig. 13: Disconnect the wires attached to the starter solenoid to facilitate removal
  1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
6c5429b.jpg

Fig. 14: Unbolt the starter from the vehicle

  1. Remove the cable from the starter.

38a579f.jpg
Fig. 15: Once detached, remove the starter from the vehicle


04789a9.jpg
Fig. 16: Exploded view of the starter mounting-2.5L engine
  1. Disconnect the solenoid leads at their solenoid terminals. If necessary, tag then to avoid confusion when re-installing.
9796cc6.jpg
Fig. 17: Attach the starter wire connector to the terminals as shown-V6 and V8 engines


2e59350.jpg
Fig. 18: To remove the starter, unbolt the mounting hardware shown-V6 and V8 engines


On 4WD Dakota models with the V6 engine, the starter is removed from above. On these models you will have to disconnect the steering gear and position the shaft out of the way to gain working clearance.
  1. Remove the starter attachment bolts and withdraw the starter from the engine flywheel housing. On some models with automatic transmissions, the oil cooler tube bracket will interfere with the starter removal. In this case, remove the starter attachment bolts, slide the cooler tube bracket off the stud, and then withdraw the starter.
dc7317b.jpg
Fig. 19: When detached, pull the starter away from the engine and remove it from the vehicle-2WD Dakota model shown

To install:

  1. Be sure that the starter and flywheel housing mating surfaces are free of dirt and oil to make a good electrical contact.
1547e44.jpg
Fig. 20: Install the starter motor on the 4WD Dakota from above as shown
  1. Slide the starter in place, secure using the bolts and washers removed. Tighten the bolts to 50 ft. lbs. (68 Nm). Connect wires and battery cable end at the starter.
  2. If removed for clearance, reconnect the steering column shaft.
  3. Secure the oil cooler bracket if equipped. Connect the negative battery cable on the battery.
When tightening the mounting bolt and nut on the starter, hold the starter away from the engine for the correct alignment.

Diesel Engines

  1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
  2. Raise the truck and support it safely on jackstands.
  3. Disconnect and label the wires at the starter motor.
  4. Remove the attaching bolt, nut and washer, then lift the starter and solenoid assembly from the engine.
To install:
  1. Before installing the starter motor, be sure the mounting surface on the drive end housing and the flywheel housing are clean, to ensure good electrical contact.
  2. When tightening the attaching bolt and nut, hold the starter away from the engine to ensure the proper alignment. Tighten the bolts to 32 ft. lbs. (43 Nm).
  3. Attach the wiring at the starter. Tighten the solenoid connection to 44 inch lbs. (5 Nm). Tighten the battery cable at the starter motor to 16 ft. lbs. (22 Nm).
  4. Attach the negative battery cable.
SOLENOID REPLACEMENT
Chrysler Corp. for 1989-91 models did provide replaceable solenoids for the starter motors covered by this information. However since 1992, the manufacturer no longer recommends replacement of individual components, even if the later unit has the same part number of a formerly serviceable unit. Chrysler now simply calls for replacement of the entire starter assembly if the solenoid is found faulty.

e1aa751.jpg
Fig. 21: Starter electrical connections and mounting bolt locations-diesel engine


Hope helped with this (remember rated this post) Good luck.

Mar 05, 2010 | 1989 Dodge Ramcharger

1 Answer

1998 Chrysler Concorde 3.2L Intermittent starting problem. Can hear the starter solenoid kick but will not turn over. The starter, battery and cables have been replaced. After replacing the battery today...


Thoroughly check the battery to chassis to engine ground system is properly connected and in good order.
Check/replace any solenoid control relay if fitted -(slave relay interfacing between ignition start sw and starter motor engage solenoid).
Check condition and connections of any fusible link (or in line Maxifuse).

Oct 19, 2009 | 1998 Chrysler Concorde

1 Answer

2000 Mazda MPV-DX 2.5L V6 won't turn over just clicks.


yes it could be the starter next time it won't start give the starter motor a tap with a hammer or wheel brace also check where the small blade connector is there should be a fuse in line could be the problem hope this helps regards Jim

Apr 21, 2009 | 2000 Mazda MPV

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