Re: how do i adjust the hand break system on focus 1999
Hi there, you will need to slacken of the cable adjuster just next to the handbrake lever under its gaiter, jack up the vheicle and remove the rear wheels, remove the rear brake drums, clean and adjust the brake shoes also remove any dust from the drum, if the shoes are worn out they will need replacing, with the drums removed check everything is working freely by getting someone to operate the handbrake lever as you visually inspect the shoes you should see them moving backwards and forwards, if not then strip down and free off, i would advice doing one side at a time so you always have a point of referance to work from. check the wheel cylinder is free and not leaking, if so replace. adjust the brake shoes and refit the drums, once this is done readjust your hanbrake cable so it comes up 3-4 clicks, if this seems a little dawnting your local garage should be able to do you this job for a small fee, hope this helps
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I presume it goes on and off when you hit a bump ?? Working around the areas of the fan switch and the blower motor, attempt to physically shock (hit, pound, whatever- but don't break anything including your hand) these areas to determine if they react. If you get a reaction, that will be your area of focus. If you don't get a reaction, start removing things to gain access to wiring and ensure everything is plugged in tight. If you are not up to the task or not sure, any remotely competant mechanic can fix it for you.
1-2-2 means the sensor in the air inlet duct is disconnected or open. 2-3-1 and 2-3-2 means your o2 sensor has probably failed or possibly is related to the first. If the air sensor fails on a Regina system (square ignition coil on driver's side) then the system, being as dumb as it is, will attempt to put a constant integer in there, computing solely on MAP readings and probably guessing poorly on what the A/F mixture should be. So fix the air sensor first, reset the system, either by disconnecting the battery negative cable and waiting 10 minutes or clearing the codes out by hand.
there is no adjustment of the tensioner. It is automatic.
Automatic tensioners are calibrated to provide the correct amount of tension to the belt for a given accessory drive system. Unless a spring or damping band within the tensioner assembly breaks, or some other machanical part of the tensioner fails, there is no need to check the tensioner for correct tension.
There are 2 things that cause power steering to go stiff. The power steering pump itself either from failure or "lack of fluid" and the rack and pinion assy under the car.
Most of the time the failure is the power steering pump itself. The teflon rollers fail inside the pump and it either stops providing an output pressure or it seizes up. You can loosen the power steering pump belt then try to rotate the pump by hand. It should move by hand. If it feels like it is intermittently locking up as you rotate, it the teflon rollers have failed and the pump will need to be replaced.
This sounds like you have a broken break line, a leaking wheel cylinder or a leaking master cylinder. The small reservoir is for the rear breaks. I would recommend getting it fixed before you continue your trip. If the leak is not repaired, you may do damage to the anti-lock breaking system ( if equipped) as well as other break components. If you get into a position of having to rely on the breaks they may fail completely and cause an accident.
your handbreak connects to the rear breaks follow the cable from your break drum where the 2 meet is the ajustment give it a squart of penertrating oil before ajusting as it has been open to the weather also there is further ajustment where the cable enters the hand break lever good luck ps if this dosent do the trick i suggest you cable is fully streched you will need to fit a new one
If it is the single over head cam (SOHC),chances are you will be o.k.
If it is the dual over head cam (DOHC) , chances are you bent some vales and possible piston damage.
SOHC you can probably do yourself,but the DOHC you need special tools for the set-up of the engine.
Remember to ( after belt is installed ) remove the spark plugs and turn the engine over by hand atleast 2 full turns of the crankshaft.
If while turning by hand the engine stops, you need to reposition the belt on the pulleys. Check the proper diagram, and follow the instructions carefully.
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Jack up the desired side and put it on jackstands. Now make sure the front wheels are blocked against front or rear motion and make sure the brakes are off, this includes the emergency or hand brake.
The pressure of the rear brake pads against the drums should be minimal enough that you can wiggle the drums off. You should not need to adjust the cables - which are for the emergency brake connection.
Grab the brake drum with both hands on opposing sides and gently wiggle back and forth while pulling out toward you. Some of the tension will be from the pads and some will be from the bolts. Once you advance it a few millimeters, it will start to get easier.
As always with brake work, be sure not to disturb the dust or breathe it. Using proper brake cleaner products can really help your health down the road.
The hand brake hardly ever needs ajusting. See your hand brake mechanincly spreads your rear brake shose inside the drum. Therefore just replace your rear shoes and make sure there ajusted right and you should have no more problems with that part of your car. PS make sure you put some 3M paste on the contact points on your backing plate to avoid a squeak in the near future.