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Brake pedal not working untill half way down - 2001 Ford Focus

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Need to strip and adjust rear brakes

Posted on Feb 13, 2012

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: brake pedal is spongy

how did you bled them back 2 front?

Posted on Mar 27, 2009

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How do you replace a brake light switch on a 2012 dodge avenger


It is located above the brake pedal shaft you will see a switch that touches the shaft. Just unplug the wire to it and unscrew it. Screw the new one in until the switch pin that touches the shaft is retracted half way into the switch. Start the car and push the brake pedal down 1/2" the brake lights should come on if not unscrew the switch until they do.

Mar 19, 2015 | Dodge Cars & Trucks

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1969 Kenworth Dump Truck. Not much movement in brake pedal. Does not appear to have air to the pedal. All other air works fine.


Spray brake pedal (treadel valve) With WD-40. May have to remove foot pedal and rubber boot work up and down with pliers until moves freely.

Apr 14, 2013 | Cars & Trucks

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Clutch pedal goes to floor and half works on my b2200 1987 mazda pick-up


If the clutch is hydraulic operated, you need to bleed the clutch at the slave cylinder, down on the transmission housing. Bleed it just like you bleed brakes of air in the line-open bleeder valve, someone pushes clutch pedal slowly to floor, close valve, and repeat until fluid comes out valve in a steady stream. Make sure the clutch reservoir is full before starting. It uses regular brake fluid.
If not hydraulic, it would be cable operated. Adjust the cable until clutch pedal is right.

Dec 29, 2012 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

1992 F250 460 cid automatic 2w drive 85000 mi. Just replaced my master cylinder, all 4 brakes, and both front rotors. Afterward I blead the brakes and got bubbles out of fluid. Problem is : when not...


There is never a test or reason to pump your brakes

Accomplishes absolutely nothing.

There is no pressure in a braking system at all,
until you SLOWLY apply the brake pedal.

Then less than 1" off movement in the master cyl,
will develop 600 to 1800 lbs at the wheels

Release the brake pedal, the system goes to zero,
IT DOES NOT HOLD ANY PRESSURE

To answer your question

You not suppost to press the pedal hard
The saying goes--you apply the brakes,
not force the pedal arm and pin into the
vacuum booster, as though you want to damage it

When your driving what happens ?
You have higher manifold vacuum and
thus your pedal is normal,why the VACUUM
brake booster

Mar 31, 2011 | 1992 Ford F250

1 Answer

2000 Kia Sportage Losing brake fluid. Is it a big


No it is not that big of a deal. It is normally 2-3 nuts and your brake lines. The things to make sure of is that brake fluid does not get on any of the electronics below the cylinder by using a towel. Also make sure to bleed the cylinder before hooking the brake lines in all the way. Basically you can do this by screwing in the brake lines about half way and hitting the brake pedal about half way down. Make sure the reservoir does not get empty. Bleed it until there is nothing but fluid coming out of both lines. Obviously this is best done with two people. Have them hold the pedal down while you tighten the lines fully and you should be good.

Nov 06, 2009 | 2001 Kia Sportage

3 Answers

Brake Pedal goes to the floor in my 1990 Chevy C1500 Scottsdale


do you have a self bleeder kit? first off, you have to bleed the master cyl back into its self and the combination valve before you go to the wheels. when you do that, I think you will find that you have air in the lines. disconnect both brake lines from the master cyl and put the bleeder kit fittings on the master cyl, then put the rubber tubing with the kit on the fittings and submerge it in the brake reservoir. make sure its full. then pump the pedal until you get a hard pedal. if that is the case, reconnect the lines to the master, then have an assistant pump up the brake pedal with the engine off, and bleed the combination valve which should be connected to the master by steel tubing. pump it up, then hold it down, and crack the fittings loose, one at a time until the pedal goes about half way down, but do not release the brake pedal until the line is tight again, otherwise you will **** air in the lines. after you do all that, go to the farthest caliper or wheel cylynder from the master and bleed that with the same technique,and dont release the pedal until you close the bleeder screw. unless you have a major prob, this will work.

Jul 20, 2009 | 1995 Chevrolet K1500

1 Answer

Have to press hard on breaks to break on 528i bmw 2000


sounds like brake booster not working
check vacuum hose that goes to booster is ok and not leaking
engine off
pump up brake pedal several times
hold brake pedal down
start engine
pedal should sink down approx half to 3/4 way down indicating booster is working
if pedal doesnt go down when engine is running booster has leak or no vacuum supply from engine which requires great pedal effort to try and get vehicle to stop.

Jun 26, 2009 | 2000 BMW 5 Series

2 Answers

1998 chevy s10- brake pedal goes to the floor- just changed master cylinder, brake booster, and bled brake lines- did not help


Ok the BRAKE BOOSTER is ONLY there to give you pwer assisted, otherwise NO POWER BRAKES. ( not anything to do with the low brake pedal ) Hopefully the junkyard master cylinder was in better shape than your original. AS far a bleedinda system, heres what I do. First with a1998 vehicle, I would go to ALL 4 wheels , OPEN & CLOSE slightly each bleeder to insure none of them are FROZEN, and they do freeze shut ENSUE THE MASTER CYLINDER IS FULL and CLOSED Now with an assistant sitting in the drivers seat, ready to pump the brakes, and ABLE TO HEAR YOU. Go to the furthest wheel from the master which would be the R/R. DONT touch anything yet. Tell the asst too slowly pump the brake pedal till it gets hard, and then HOLD THE PEDAL DOWN ( and dont let up on it until the pedal drops. If the ast lets up before the bleeder is closed you **** in air.Repeat at each wheel til the pedal stays hard. Hope this helps

Apr 12, 2009 | 1988 Chevrolet C1500

1 Answer

Brakes


have the brake booster rod hooked up then pull it out away from the brake pedal until the pedestal is flush with the hole opening in the brake booster rod. On your brake lamp switch you have a half opening on one side,put this side towards the pedestal first then slide it down over the brake booster rod until the front closed opening on the switch lines up with the pedestal and brake booster rod hole then push the switch and booster rod towards the pedal assembly and install the push pin clip.

Apr 07, 2009 | 1998 Ford Windstar

1 Answer

1996 chev cavalier brakes


Did u replace all the brake lines, front and back brakes replaced? Make sure u did the following:
1. make sure master cylinder is topped off (full)
2. go to the bleeder the greatest distance from the master cylinder, Have someone pump the brake pedal 3 times, each time about half way down w/ pedal, on 3rd pump, they should depress the pedal half way and hold it there while u open the bleeder. When air or fluid comes out and it begins to slow, gently snug the bleeder valve shut before the pedal is released. Continue to do this until only clear, clean fluid is flowing. Keep checking the master cyl. level, if u let it go down too much u will **** air into the line and have to start all over. Go to the next bleeder that is farthest away, etc. til u do the closest bleeder. Car should be running doing this, and you MUST use safety stands so u don't have the car falling on u while u work under it. Also make sure all your new brake line connections are tight, or it will allow air into the lines. Let me know how this works for u. good luck countrycurt0

Sep 30, 2008 | 1996 Chevrolet Cavalier

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