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WHAT IS THE WHEEL NUT TORQUE SETTING FORD LASER TONIC (FW)

FORD LASER TONIC 1300 1998 MODEL,DONT KNOW HOW TIGHT WHEEL NUT MUST BE KEEPS ON LOOSING BEARINGS IN FRONT.NEW HUBS AND SHAFTS INSTALLED.

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  • 35 Answers

There is no toque setting on wheel nuts, if they are comeing lose then check the threads and replace the nuts with new ones, maybe check the rims you have on the car, are they standard if not then they may be the problem.

Posted on Feb 12, 2012

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

BCally1
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SOURCE: Rear hub nut torque setting Hyundai coupe 2000 se

65-80 ft.lbs

Posted on Jan 06, 2009

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: Torque specs for front wheel hub nut

112 to 174 ft lbs

Posted on Apr 04, 2009

  • 72 Answers

SOURCE: Front Hub Bearing Torque specs to complete replacement

THE LUG NUT TORQUE SPEC - 140FT/LBS\
CALIPER MOUNT - 80FT/LBS
CALIPER BRACKET 129FT/LBS
AXLE NUT 177FT/LBS

Posted on May 09, 2009

  • 15 Answers

SOURCE: VW Jetta torque setting and hub nut size????

129 ft/lbs. Per Bentley...I'm pretty sure it's a 30 mm 12 point socket.

Posted on Jun 01, 2009

  • 10 Answers

SOURCE: what is the torque specs for the front wheel

Ford Front wheel bearings do have a torque spec. It is all over the new part to torque to MFR spec or damage will occur.
I have no idea what that spec is though.

Posted on Nov 07, 2009

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2 Answers

What is the torque spec for the front wheel bearing on a 1964 Chrysler New Yorker?


http://www.automobile-catalog.com/make/chrysler/full-size_chrysler_4gen/full-size_4gen_new_yorker_sedan/1964.html

http://www.automobile-catalog.com/auta_details1.php
25607247-yjo0ud12y22pkmokvfqa1yzz-2-0.gif
NOTE: Always install a new hub nut. The original hub nut is one-time use only and should be discarded when removed.
11. Install hub nut on end of halfshaft stub shaft. With aid of a helper applying brakes to keep front hub from turning, tighten hub nut to 160 N·m (118 ft. lbs.).
12. Install tire and wheel assembly. Install and tighten wheel mounting nuts to 135 N·m (100 ft. lbs.).
13. Lower vehicle.
14. Pump brake pedal several times to ensure vehicle has a firm brake pedal before moving vehicle.
15. Check and adjust brake fluid level as necessary.

Mar 25, 2015 | Chrysler New Yorker Cars & Trucks

Tip

Mazda 323/Protege front wheel bearing


The moment you can hear a loud noise coming from front wheels while driving straight that means that your wheel bearings are ready for replacement. In a Mazda 323 BJ (1999-2004) it usually comes every 150-200 thousand kilometers (95-120k miles). To replace the bearing (do two of them in one go even if only one can be heard) you need to do as follows:
Loosen the nut on the half shaft, jack up the car, remove the wheel, dismantle brake caliper and brake disc, remove all ball joints attached to the hub, detach the shock absorber from the hub (no need of removing it completely), once you have the hub basically hanging on the half shaft, untie the nut and pull the hub out of the shaft so you can hold it in your hands. You will need to go to a garage with a 12ton (minimum) press, no point of trying to hammer the bearing out as you may damage the hub and your whole work will be for nothing. Get the old bearing pressed out and the new one pressed in.The Mazda part numbers for the front bearing kit are: B455-33-047A(B,D),GJ21-33-042B,G304-33-065,B21M-33-048.
After getting the bearing fitted into the hub, all we need is to reverse the whole process, put the shaft into the hub, attached the hub to the shock absorber (makes it easier to attach the rest), put the nut and tight it just as much to feel there is nearly no movement (do not overtight it as this might damage the bearing), attach all ball joints back to the hub. Make sure all nuts are tight, use a
tension wrench when needed, put the brake disc back on the hub, install the brake caliper, once you have all them on and tight put on the wheel, then get someone to press the brake while you tight the shaft nut with the tension wrench, check the wheel for play or hard movement. Lower the car down and take a slow drive around (do not accelerate sharply or brake rapidly, just a gentle drive around. Normally a wheel bearing should be in correct position and use after about 200km (120 miles) distance. After that check if it is not overheating (too tight) or there is a play (too loose). Tight or untight if necessary, recheck after same 200km (120 miles).

on Apr 24, 2010 | Mazda 323 Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Replace Front Wheel Hub Bearing 2002 Jeep Grand Cherokee 2 wheel drive


Removal
  1. Raise and support the vehicle.
  2. Remove the wheel and tire assembly.
  3. Remove the brake caliper, caliper anchor, rotor and ABS wheel speed sensor.
  4. Remove the cotter pin, nut retainer and axle hub nut.
  5. Remove the hub/bearing mounting bolts from the back of the steering knuckle. Remove hub/bearing from the steering knuckle and off the axle shaft.
Installation
  1. Install the hub/bearing to the knuckle.
  2. Install the hub/bearing-to-knuckle bolts and tighten to specification.
  3. Install the hub washer and nut. Tighten the hub nut to specification. Install the nut retainer and a new cotter pin.
  4. Install the brake rotor, caliper anchor, caliper and ABS wheel speed sensor.
  5. Install the wheel and tire assembly.
  6. Remove the support and lower the vehicle.

Apr 22, 2012 | 2002 Jeep Grand Cherokee

1 Answer

What is the foot pounds for the front wheel bearings on a 1995 chrysler cirrus


Hello, If you Chrysler has replaceable wheel bearings and seal. This is the way it goes---pack the wheel bearing with new grease-install the bearing in the wheel nub--install new back wheel seal--coat the axle shaft with grease lightly, thing coat-----install wheel hub on to axle shaft...be careful here don't damage the rear hub seal------------insert front race washer---install axle shaft nut--tighten nut down wheel nut until it is firm with water pump pliers----spin the hub/with tire mounted.
(the wheel and hub will turn but not freely)----take the pliers and back off the axle nut 1/4 turn----now spin the wheel and axle hub, it should spin freely---now if doesn't spin freely---back off the axle nut about 1/16 or 1/32 (or just a little bit)-----now, spin the wheel and hub and if turn freely------------Now grab the top of the wheel/tire and move it back and forth.-----if there is some movement ---try tighten the axle nut just a little little bit, unit the one can barely feel some little movement in the wheel/tire and hub.-----------Now, spin the wheel/tire and hub and it should also turn freely.

If it does----install new and correct size of cotter pin and bent the ends around the axle nut.----

coat the inside of the hub cup with grease. Now, use an rubber or plastic hammer to install the cup on the wheel/tire hub. You are finished with one wheel bearing maintenance. Now do the other side.



I really don't know if you Chrysler Cirrus has replaceable wheel bearing. All the auto/trucks have replaceable hubs, that means that the replacement is total hub with axle shaft, sealed bearings, and seals. This is bolt to each wheel steering hub. This work to remove these one unit hubs.

Four bolts hold the axle hub to the steering hub. Hear is the problem!! it has rusted to the steering hub. Also, these hubs cost more than replacing bearings, races, seals to cool turn of $180 to $250+ I wish you luck in your replacement of wheel bearing on your Chrysler. GB..stewbison

Sep 24, 2011 | Chrysler Cirrus Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Change a bearing in 1983 ford f150 4 wheel drive


need special socket from parts store remove allen bolts from front alex, loose first axle nut. with neddle nose pliers pull out tab ring .then loosen second ring bearing will be next might have to wiggle wheel to get bearing to slid out. replace bearing snug first lock-nut against bearing keep track of lock nut with *** on it that one is first then {DON'T OVER TIGHTEN} then put ring with holes on next nake sure *** is in a hole, then tighten last lock ring watch how you take hub off make sure hubs are not locked in. after you are done with vech.in air lock hubs ane rotate tire to make sure front axel {drive shaft} turns . I use super blue wheel bearing. grease I pack my bearings every two years

Jun 05, 2011 | Ford F-150 Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

How do I rgerplabe how do I replace a front wheel bearing?


TO REMOVE FRONT WHEEL BEARING.YOU NEED TO SAFELY RAISE SUPPORT VECHICLE ON JACK STANDS.MAKE SURE SITTING ON LEVEL SOLID GROUND.BEFORE RAISING VECHICLE OFF GROUND YOU NEED TO LOOSEN HALF SHAFT AXLE NUT JUST A LITTLE BECAUSE WHEEL IN THE AIR HARD TO LOOSEN AXLE NUT WHEN YOU HAVE HOLD THE WHEEL WHILE LOOSEN THE AXLE NUT WHICH IS TORQUE ON ABOUT 200 FT LBS.USING A SIX POINT AXLE SOCKET SOCKET SIZE COULD BE 34 OR 35 METRIC 1/2 INCH SOCKET.YOU NEED 1/2 INCH BREAKER BAR.ONCE YOU LOOSEN AXLE NUT A LITTLE THEN RAISE VECHICLE THEN REMOVE WHEEL.THEN FINISHING REMOVING AXLE NUT AND WASHER.THEN REMOVE THE CALIPER FROM THE STEERING KNUCKLE AND SUPPORT IT ASIDE USING A PIECE OF WIRE.REMOVE BRAKE ROTOR.THEN REMOVE THE 3 HUB BEARING ASSEMBLY BOLTS. USE A SWIVEL SOCKET GOING TO BE HARD TO REACH SPOT WITH A REGULAR SOCKET. REMOVE THE HALF SHAFT FROM THE HUB BEARING ASSEMBLY.REMOVE HUB AND BEARING ASSEMBLY. PUT EVERY THING BACK VISA VERSA. TORQUE HUB BEARING BOLTS TO 70 FT LBS. TORQUE AXLE NUT 284 FT LBS IF YOUR CAR IS 1998 MODEL AND TORQUE AXLE NUT 100 FT LBS FOR THE 1999 TO 2001 MODELS.THE WHEEL HAS TO BE ON THE GROUND JUST ENOUGH TO KEEP IT FROM TURNING.DONT LET ALL THE CAR WEIGHT DOWN UNTIL YOU HAVE TORQUE WHEEL TO THE RIGHT TORQUE.LET ME KNOW IF YOU HAVE ANY PROBLEMS.

Mar 21, 2011 | 1999 Oldsmobile Alero

1 Answer

Need exploded view of 1995 dodge 2500 left front u-joint removal process. How does main bearing race come off?


FRONT DRIVE AXLE Hubs and Bearings REMOVAL & INSTALLATION Models 44, 60, 70 and 80 with Manual or Automatic Locking Hubs
  1. Raise the vehicle and install jackstands.
  2. Refer to Manual or Automatic Free Running Hub Removal and Installation and remove the hub assemblies. Fig. 1: Remove the outer locknut on the Model 60/70 front drive axle 88477g63.gif

  3. Remove the wheel bearing lock nut, using a hub nut wrench.
  4. Remove the lock ring from the bearing adjusting nut. This can be done with your finger tips or a screwdriver. Fig. 2: Exploded view of the front hub retaining hardware 88471109.gif

  5. Using a hub nut wrench remove the bearing adjusting nut.
  6. Remove the caliper and suspend it out of the way (see the brake section).
  7. Slide the hub and disc assembly off the spindle. The outer wheel bearing will slide out as the hub is removed, so be prepared to catch it. To install:
  8. Carefully position the hub and disc assembly on the spindle.
  9. Install the outer bearing cone and roller, and the adjusting nut. NOTE: The adjusting nut has a small dowel on one side. This dowel faces outward to engage the locking ring.
  10. Using a hub nut wrench tighten the bearing adjustment nut to 50 ft. lbs. (68 Nm), while rotating the wheel back and forth to seat the bearings.
  11. Back off the adjusting nut approximately 90°.
  12. Install the lock ring by turning the nut to the nearest hole and inserting the dowel pin. NOTE: The dowel pin must seat in a lock ring hole for proper bearing adjustment and wheel retention.
  13. Install the outer lock nut and tighten to 50-80 ft. lbs. (68-108 Nm). Final end-play of the wheel on the spindle should be 0.001-0.010 in. (0.025-0.25mm).
  14. Assemble the hub parts.
  15. Install the caliper.
  16. Remove the jackstands and lower the vehicle.
Model 44 With Full-Time 4-Wheel Drive
  1. Remove the wheel cover.
  2. Remove the cotter pin and loosen the axle shaft nut. Fig. 3: Remove the wheel bearing adjusting nut from the Model 44 front axle 88477g64.gif

  3. Raise the support the front end on jackstands.
  4. Remove the wheels. Fig. 4: Exploded view of the Model 44 wheel bearing adjusting nut, retaining washer and locknut in their correct relationship 88477g65.gif

  5. Unbolt the caliper and support it out of the way. DO NOT DISCONNECT THE BRAKE LINE!
  6. Remove the inboard brake pad.
  7. Remove the axle shaft nut and washer.
  8. Through the hole provided in the rotor, remove the six retainer bolts.
  9. Position pull C-4358, or equivalent, over the wheel lugs and install the lug nuts. Tighten the main screw of the puller to remove the hub, bearings, retainer and outer seal as an assembly.
  10. Insert a prybar through the U-joint and wedge the shaft inward as far as it will go. Make sure that it is wedged securely and can't be moved.
  11. Install the hub, rotor and bearing assembly and tighten the retainer bolts to 30 ft. lbs. (40 Nm) in a crisscross pattern.
  12. Install the brake adapter. Tighten the bolts to 85 ft. lbs. (115 Nm).
  13. Remove the prybar form the U-joint.
  14. Install the axle shaft nut and tighten it to 100 ft. lbs. (136 Nm), then continue tightening it to align the cotter pin holes. Install the cotter pin.
  15. Using the lube fitting, fill the knuckle with NLGI, Grade 2, multi-purpose EP grease until the grease is seen flowing through the inner seal. Fig. 5: Lubrication fitting location on the rotor top hat 88477g69.gif

  16. Install the inner brake pad and caliper (see Section 9).
  17. Install the wheels and tighten the lug nuts to 110 ft. lbs. (150 Nm).
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Nov 05, 2010 | 1995 Dodge Ram 2500

1 Answer

How tight should the nut be on the front wheel bearings for a 2006 f250 two wheel drive.


  1. Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the Precautions Section.
  2. Raise and safely support the vehicle.
  3. Support the front end.
  4. Remove the wheel cover, if equipped.
  5. Remove the grease cap.
    NOTE Check the wheel bearings for sufficient grease.
  6. Remove the cotter pin and retaining washer. Back off the spindle nut. Discard the cotter pin.
  7. Adjust the wheel bearings as follows:
    1. Tighten the spindle nut to 30 ft. lbs. (40 Nm) while rotating the brake disc clockwise to seat the wheel bearings.
    2. Back off the nut 2 full turns.
    3. While rotating the disc counterclockwise, tighten the nut to 17-24 ft. lbs. (23-34 Nm).
    4. Back off the spindle nut about 1 / 2 turn.
    5. Tighten the spindle nut to 17 inch lbs. (2 Nm).

  8. Install the retaining washer so the castellations are aligned with the cotter pin hole. Install a new cotter pin.
  9. Check the wheel and tire assembly for proper rotation, then install the grease cap. If the wheel still does not rotate properly, inspect and clean or replace the wheel bearings and cups.
  10. Install the wheel cover, if equipped.
  11. Lower the vehicle.
  12. Road test the vehicle and check for proper operation.

To check the wheel bearing adjustment, raise the front of the vehicle. Grasp the tire at the sides, and alternately push inward and pull outward on the tire. If any looseness is felt, adjust the front wheel bearings as follows.
  1. Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the Precautions Section.
  2. Remove the hub cap from the hub.
  3. Remove the cotter pin and the castellated nut.
  4. While rotating the wheel, tighten the adjusting nut to 21 ft. lbs. (28 Nm) to seat the bearings.
  5. Back off the adjusting nut until loose (120-180 degrees).
  6. While rotating the wheel, tighten the adjusting nut to 18 inch lbs. (2Nm). Torque required to rotate the hub should be 18 inch lbs. (2 Nm).
  7. Install the castellated nut and insert a new cotter pin.
  8. Install the hub cap

Mar 06, 2010 | 2006 Ford F-250 Super Duty

1 Answer

How do you change the front bearings


hi, now this is a big job and the nut you need to undo you will need a air gun to undo is as it is torqued up that tight that you wont undo it using any hand tools but here is how you do it.
1. put car on axle stands so wheels are off the floor and remove the wheels.
2. On the side that the bearing needs replacing you need to undo the bottom ball joint witch is under neath the disk break should be just one nut and bolt.
3. is best to undo the track rod end from the steering rack this is the tie rod and should be located in the wheel hub towards the drivers door and is held in place with one nut from under neath.
4. after you undo both of these you will then need a ball joint splitter to sepperate these parts from the hub as they will be to tight to remove from their locating possition.
5. now to get to the bearing itself this is where you need an airgun or similar tool they use in a garage. now right at the centre of the wheel hub you will see a really bug nut attatched to the end of the drive shaft and you can see the end off the drive shaft coming through the hub. I think the nut is nearly a 30m or 32m socket to undo.
6. Once this is undone gently tap the end of the drive shaft through the hub whilst gently pulling the hub outwards dont pull the hub outwards if the drive shaft isnt coming free from the hub as you can pull the drive shaft out of the gearbox and then you will have a right mess with geasrbox oil everywhere as the drive shaft is only push fit into gear box.

If the drive shaft is coming free from the hub then keep pulling the hub towards you untill the drive shaft is free (secure driveshaft with string so as not to put stress on the drive shaft bearing).
Now you should be able to remove the old bearing and insert the new make sure you clean the old bearing out properly and use new grease to lube the new bearing.

When doing the drive shaft back up you need to use air gun again to tighten the nut up enough to be safe to drive as their is alot of pressure on these parts.
You wont undo the nut without a air compressor and air tools buying these would be more expensive than paying a garage to do the repairs themselves.
Please choose carefully as once you have started if you have any problems you cant take the car to a garage as it will be in bits.
Let me know if you need further assistance.
If you are going to do this yourself then please buy a workshop manual as this will give you the correct torque settings as the bearing has to be torqued up to a required setting else the bearing will just fail again.

Let me know how you get on ok.

or if you need further assistance ok

Aug 11, 2009 | 2000 Ford Escort

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