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Remove spoiler for 1993 SAAB 900 S convertible

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6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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ilragatzzo78
  • 241 Answers

SOURCE: saab 900 convertible roof not functioning properly

what's going on ??
stuck ??
jerking ??

Posted on May 24, 2008

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  • 61 Answers

SOURCE: on board Diagnostic 10-pin connector

Check further up ahead of the bellows, may be in the housing for the console itself. I think there are two connectors up in there, but wait for other posts before digging further. My suggestion is only that.

Posted on Jun 10, 2008

Saaboheme
  • 76 Answers

SOURCE: 1993 saab 900 belt diagram

Sorry, I don't have access to a Bentley now. There are 4 belts, 2 for alternator etc, 1 for aircon and 1 for pwr steering.
The power steering belt goes round the power steering pump & crank pulley only.
The paired belts go round crank pulley, alternator and water pump.
The aircon belt goes round crank pulley, aircon compressor and tensioner.
Alternator / water pump pair are closest to the engine.
Power steering is in the middle (with aircon) or closest to the bulkhead (without aircon).
Aircon (if fitted) is closest to the bulkhead.

(1) If you do not have an AC compressor, skip this step and go to step 2. If you dohave one, begin by cutting any cable ties that hold the main wiringharness to the AC hoses. Lift the harness up and over onto the camcover until it's near the PCV valve, and is now out of your way.

All nuts & bolts in this step are 13 mm.

Then, slacken the 2 bolts attaching the AC tensioner pulley mount (athick triangular steel plate) to the head. Use a long box wrench (ringspanner, in Englishicon_cheesygrin.gif ).

Using a deep-wall socket (or an offset ratchet wrench, or plain wrench)on the adjuster nut, back it off until there's no more tension in thebelt (you won't be able to remove the belt yet, though).

Now, remove the upper of the 2 mounting bolts and its washer, and pivot the tensioner down; remove the belt.

Remove the lower bolt, and lift out the tensioner. Look the triangularplate over for cracks, and spin the pulley to see if its bearing issmooth and quiet. (If you find problems, the pulley is about $15 and www.eeuroparts.com sells the entiretensioner assembly for something like $70.) Back off the adjuster nutuntil it's about 1/4" (1/2 cm) from the end of its threaded rod (usevise-grips to clamp the rod's other end onto the triangular plate, orput the whole thing in a vise).

(2) Slacken the bolt and nut holding the power steering pump to thehead and to the RH engine mount, respectively. Slacken the adjuster nut(yes, anotherthreaded-rod type thing) by about 1/2" (1 cm). You can use a normalwrench for this, but it takes forever--so I made a special tool bytaking a cheapo 13 mm open-jaw wrench and bending it to a 45-degreeangle just below the jaws (cut it to length if it's too hard tomaneuver). Loosen the mounting nut until it's almost off (but not completely off,or you'll lose the bolt it screws onto--this bolt was designed to fallout when the nut is removed). Pull the nut end of the threaded rodtowards the firewall to get it of the adjuster fork. Push the pumptowards the engine centerline and pull its belt off (you may need topry with a screwdriver to get it out of the pump pulley completely).

(3) Slacken the 16 mm nut on top of the alternator. Back off the alt.adjuster's 10 mm nut about 1/2" (1 cm)--a ratcheting wrench helps here.(This is the last threaded rod--I promise.) Completely remove the 16 mmnut, and pull the adjuster towards the firewall until it's out of thealt.

Now for the clever part: Cut yourself a wedge from a piece of wood (2 x4 is perfect), with a rise of 3" (8 cm) and a run of about 12" (30 cm).Push the alt. towards the engine, and shove the wedge in between theside of the alt. and the coil-spring tower (master cylinder mountingbracket works, too). Keep pushing the alt. and driving the wedge downuntil the alt. is so close to the engine that it's compressing thelower heater hose.

Pull the outer belt off the alt. pulley. Working from the RH side ofthe car, lift the belt off the water pump pulley and then disengage itfrom the crank pulley. Now, pull the inner belt into the outergroove of the water pump pulley. Go back to the LH side of the car, andmove the inner belt into the alt. pulley's outer groove. Try removingit from this pulley; if too difficult, either wedge the alt. closer tothe engine or try pulling the belt off the water pump pulley from theRH side of the car (a helper is very useful for all this).

(4) Install the new inner belt by fitting it into its groove in thecrank pulley first. Work it into the outer grooves of the alt. andwater pump pulleys, then into the inner ones. Install the outerbelt--again, first onto the crank pulley, then the water pump and alt.pulleys.

Remove wedge. Insert tensioner into alt. making sure the threaded rodsettles into its fork, and refit its 16 mm nut--but don't fully tightenit yet. Tighten 10 mm adjuster nut until belts can be pushed in only1/2" (1 cm) by thumb pressure (applied 1/2 way between water pump andcrank pulleys).

(5) Push PS pump as close to engine centerline as possible, andfinger-tighten its mounting bolt to hold it there. Fit a new beltaround the crank pulley first, then work it into the pump pulley groovefrom the bottom of the pulley until it pops in. You may need to use both hands, and/or carefully pry the belt on with a screwdriver.

Loosen the bolt you just tightened. Pull the pump away from enginecenterline, insert threaded rod into its fork (you may have to back theadjuster nut off some more), tighten the mounting nut (but notcompletely), and screw in the adjuster nut until the belt deflects asdescribed in (4) above.

(6) Start the engine. Blip throttle, watching the belts deflect as theengine speed goes up and down. If the "blur" you see midway down eachbelt is over 1" (2 cm) wide, tighten the belt(s) until it isn't. Tighten the PS pump mounting nut and bolt, and the 16mm nut on the alt.

If your car doesn't have AC, your belt replacement is over!

(7) If you haveAC, reattach the tensioner to the head with the lower bolt only (andleave this bolt finger-tight). Fit the new belt around the crankpulley, then around the compressor pulley and, finally, around thetensioner.

Reinstall the top tensioner bolt and its washer. Be careful and patienthere--you're threading a steel bolt into aluminum, so make sure it goesin straight. You may have to back off the tensioner nut a little. Leavethis bolt finger-tight.

Screw in the adjuster nut to get the deflection as described in (4)above. Start the engine, and blip the throttle. Watch belt's "blur" on LHside of engine. Adjust as in (6). Switch on compressor, and repeat.

If satisfied, tighten the 2 tensioner bolts. Return wiring harness toits original position, and re-secure with cable ties if needed.

Posted on Dec 16, 2008

Saaboheme
  • 76 Answers

SOURCE: how to relace clutch cable on 1995 saab se 900 turboon saab 900se

1. Remove the battery.
2. Remove the clutch cable end from the clutch arm end at the wire stop.
3. Slide out the rubber doughnut from the gearbox housing which holds the clutch cable
4. Move the distribution box nut and the alarm pin attached to it (some modules)
5. Disconnect the clutch cable holder from the fender and the data link holder.
6. Remove the drivers lower panel below the steering wheel and remove the air duct as well as the knee shield.
7. Slide out the fuse box holder and ICE Box (should be a black box with many wires going to it). You can remove the instrument cluster at this point but you can also do this without removing the cluster with a little patience
8. Move the pedal spring to one side and remove the eye catch for the cable.
9. Remove the clutch cable by pulling it out from the engine compartment
10. Reinstall in the reverse. Saab actually came out with a bulletin which Needed one to install two washers at the back of the new cable instead of one. The factory cable comes with one but you can remove the 2nd washer off the old cable and install it on the new cable so two exist. This helps take up excessive pedal slack.

Posted on Apr 29, 2009

  • 5 Answers

SOURCE: Saab 900 96 convertible roof problem.

Try buying one of the manuals I have listed from ebay , the guy is a real gent and the manual is a fantastic help. Motros from Saab are not cheap but if the tonneau motor needs replacing, try here http://www.neobrothers.co.uk/product_info.php?products_id=724 for a reconditioned one


CD manual can be found here http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/SAAB-900-CONVERTIBLE-HOOD-REPAIR-TROUBLESHOOT-MANUAL_W0QQitemZ220365143328QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_CarParts_Vehicles_Manuals_Litterature_ET?hash=item334ec93d20&_trksid=p4634.c0.m14.l1262&_trkparms=|301%3A0|293%3A1|294%3A30

Posted on Jul 04, 2009

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1 Answer

When I switch on AC unit nothing happens. Where


IT COULD BE A SIMPLE THING AS A FUSE OR A RELAY, OR IT COULD BE THE FREON IS TOO LOW FOR THE AC CLUTCH TO KICK IN

Jul 24, 2010 | 1993 Saab 900

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I need a diagram showing the locations of the fuse boxes for a 1993 Saab 900


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May 19, 2010 | 1993 Saab 900

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How do i get my key out of a 1996 saab 900


As part of the safety/theft detterent system, most SAABs will only allow key removal when YOU PUT THE (manual) TRANSMISSION IN REVERSE. Not sure how it would work with an automatic transmission. If yours is a manual transmission, give that a try. I had a 1992 SAAB 900S convertible. Ran like a raped ape but the A/C gave out on us. Miss the old girl though.

Hope this helps!

Nov 10, 2009 | 1996 Saab 900

1 Answer

1993 Saab 900 - need to change the clutch


You can change the clutch yourself, if your pretty mechanical. It's at the front of the engine, so you don't remove engine or trans. However, you'll need to remove the hood, as it's much easier to work from the front with it off, and the left rad fan as it's in the way. Might remove rad if you want lots of space!The best source of info on this car is the "Bentley Bible" aka the Saab 900 Official Service Manual, costs about $40 from Amazon!16 valve manual: http://www.amazon.com/Saab-900-Valve-Service-Manual/dp/08376031378 valve manual :http://www.amazon.com/Eight-Official-Service-Manual-1981-1988/dp/0837603102get the appropriate manual for your car and enjoy the Saab!If this helps, please give a "thumbs up", thankssaabreur

May 04, 2009 | 1993 Saab 900

1 Answer

Saab 900 96 convertible roof problem.


Try buying one of the manuals I have listed from ebay , the guy is a real gent and the manual is a fantastic help. Motros from Saab are not cheap but if the tonneau motor needs replacing, try here http://www.neobrothers.co.uk/product_info.php?products_id=724 for a reconditioned one


CD manual can be found here http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/SAAB-900-CONVERTIBLE-HOOD-REPAIR-TROUBLESHOOT-MANUAL_W0QQitemZ220365143328QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_CarParts_Vehicles_Manuals_Litterature_ET?hash=item334ec93d20&_trksid=p4634.c0.m14.l1262&_trkparms=|301%3A0|293%3A1|294%3A30

Apr 16, 2009 | 1996 Saab 900

2 Answers

I don't know how to change the fog/driving lights on Saab 900 '97


It's a bit harder on the 97 if you have a Talladega model. Reaching won't work. You have to half drop the lip bolted to the bottom of the bumper (this is part of what makes it a talladega). You'll need 7, 8, 10 mm sockets, a torx driver, a little luck. A lift helps tremendously as there are only a couple inches to work between car and ground.

Drop the lip, then get in there and undo the bulb. Reverse

Nov 14, 2008 | 1997 Saab 900

1 Answer

On board Diagnostic 10-pin connector


Check further up ahead of the bellows, may be in the housing for the console itself. I think there are two connectors up in there, but wait for other posts before digging further. My suggestion is only that.

Jun 10, 2008 | 1990 Saab 900 Hatchback

1 Answer

Saab 900 convertible roof not functioning properly


what's going on ??
stuck ??
jerking ??

May 24, 2008 | 1995 Saab 900

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