When i switch on the ingnition key there is only cranking, i check the input fuel line is ok (fuel pressure). Furthere more i check the ignition coil side and found the current coming out of it is very very small (check for arc). Ignition coil resistance is 1.1 ohms, is it normal? Was not able to check the input supply of the coil since by bateery now is down. Pleasant day and thank you for any assistance you can extend to me.
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Re: 94 jeep laredo not starting only cranking
Remove one plug wire from an easily accessable plug. Stick a short screw or any metal thing that fits into the boot (where the plug usually is) and hold it near (abolut quarter of an inch) the block while someone turns the engine over. If you get no spark or weak spark, repeat, using dist cap end of coil wire. If good there, check cap and rotor for dampness or carbon tracking. If no spark, check +side of coil for voltage (should be close to batt voltage with key on.) If voltage Ok check output from crank/flywheel sensor. (they go bad frequently) If good, change coil. In all cases, spark should be able to bridge a gap at least on half inch. Blue spark is best but a healthy orange one is ok. there are more complicated things that can be involved but these are most common. (I use plastic handle pliers to hold wire to avoid a bad shock)
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Check for spark at plugs, fuel pressure key on/engine off, and last compression test. If no spark, check all fuses then ignition module/coil. If no fuel pressure, check fuses, relay and listen for pump noise for two seconds or so after key on. If low compression, check timing belt (if any).
DOES IT CRANK in NEUTRAL? using fresh PRNDL contacts?
no crank, is easy to diagnose. with just one tool a voltmeter.
12.6vdc is a charged battery , rested, if lower, and not cold its discharged. so charge it or jumper cable crank engine off running donor car. easy huh?
if it cant crank it cant start, (mine can push start or gravity start)
battery cable lugs clean and tight x4 ends? green corrosion?
we then hot wire. the starter solenoid, next. (using old screwdriver as jumper bar)
it cranks now (good starter ) all in 5min work !
it does not crank bad starter.
so it cranks hot wired. good.
so next what is next, easy the KEY line.
the key line runs form the starter to the PRNDL switch and then the KEY switch (crank Start line)
if the car has SKIM immobilizer it cuts fuel not spark.
so i check for 12vdc into PRNDL cranking then key is ok.
if got 12vdc in to PRNLD but not out cranking the switch is bad.
its that simple ,with any 10buck DMM off walfarts shelf.
if car is hacked or alarms spliced in, we cant fix it here, its not stock.
same with remote start hack jobs.
why not let the PCM tell you what sensor is bad.
and do the spark test, x 4 x 6? ???
if spark is all bad.
insert the diagnostic jumper wire.
then key on,
then crank for 5 seconds.
flash code will tell you if any of 3 inputs are bad, 2 sensors or spark.
The ECU cuts all fuel if it even THINKS spark is bad.
why not test spark?/ like we do for 100 years now.
its no secret how.. like 125 million google hits. (what a million hits for every year./ LOL)
this trick works on all cars and jeeps from 1988 to now.
all. all with EFI and jeep used EFI in 1988, I had one,(renix sys)
your next learning path is the ASD relay,
its just a relay that kills injection, and friends.
it drops out of the ECU thinks there is no park for 2 seconds cranking.
Check audibly the fuel pump. It will run for 3 seconds when ignition is turned on, but engine not started. If it makes noise, you could check for pressue at the fuel rail. There is normally a schrader valve you can press. Tske care, fuel under pressure will come out when pump is ok.
if ok, check for eventual fault codes with scanner.
could be crank sensor.
It does not have an obd11 connector, it's too old. The extended crank time could be a couple of things though. I've seen problems with fuel pumps, fuel pump relays and crankshaft sensors. How many miles on it? Has the fuel pump or filter been changed before?
i would suggest checking to see if you are getting fuel by disconnecting the fuel line at the fuel rail and turn key if no fuel then its either fuel pump or fuel filter. if you get fuel then it would be the spark
cj2176 is correct, we need a lttle more info. Sounds like it will need a new fuel pump or something related to it. Since it starts on starting fluid it has compression and air and spark, just no fuel. Fuel pumps can just stop working while driving, and if not working obviously will not start. No caodes will be set for a fuel pump not working. If it cranks but does not start have someone pound on the bottom of the fuel tank with a fist or small rubber mallet lightly (don't damage the tamk) while your cranking the engine. If it starts, the fuel pump module in the tank is bad.
OK...I have a 93 outside...one diagram I have shows an ignition module next to coil...but there is none on mine, (4.0 engine) Two items to check are crank sensor and cam sensor inside distributor. Test procedure can be found in just about any manual including haynes. You will need a decent volt/ohm meter to do testing. You can also check codes by turning ignition switch on/off three times, leaving it on the third time. Check engine will flash code #'s (ex: one flash, pause two flashes= the number twelve.then followed by a longer pause then another set of flashes etc.)