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1998 plymouth breeze that will not start

I have a 1998 plymouth breeze that will not start getting fire and fuel the ASD relay is good as is the fuel pump relay. I have replaced the PCM/ECU camshaft position sensor troubleshot the engine control system completly to include the crankshaft position sensor all check out good and I still can not get the engine to fire up

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  • gerald Bowling Feb 13, 2012

    Thanks for the help, ASD and fuel pump all check out even swapped out with know good ones.
    Camshaft sensor harness had most of the insulation stripped off of them from the last knucklehead who had tried to fix this problem replace that section of wiring harness correctly , orange wire supply voltage is 9.05 VDC good, black/ lt blue signal wire gave .3 to 4.65 VDC also good, but replaced camshaft sensor anyway for ***** and giggles had no affect. will recheck crankshaft sensor again but it gave good readings with in specs supply VDC 9.0 and signal VDC .3 to 5.0 VDC.
    This 2.0L engine is equiped with coil pack, will check timing anyway good idea better than being furstrated with a hammer in my hand.

  • Josh Canaday
    Josh Canaday Feb 18, 2012

    the insulation on the cam sensor wires.harness is there for a reason. check to see if the wire is routed in an area that gets hot (near exhaust manifold coolant hoses...etc.) heat will affect the resistance and cause a bad/poor/faulty signal to be relayed to either your ignition modual or ecm. which would cause your coil/coils to misfire. if the sensor itself was bad it would store a code in the ecm due to lack of or poor signal. and while equipped with a coil pack the cam sensor still relays information to the coil the same way a distributor would run off your cam gear. if you skip a tooth your cam will still be in the wrong place. since you dont have a rotor to go off of then turn your crank to TDC (top dead cylinder) and remove the valve cover and make sure both valves on number one are closed. if the timing belt cover is easy enough to get to you could remove it and check to see that the alignment marks are in the right place. another thing to look at is be sure of your fuel pressure. just cuz your getting it doesnt mean your getting the right amount. alot of motors are very temperamental about fuel pressure (chevy vortecs are a prime example) also the last thing i can think of at the moment is most obd1 (pre96 for most makes) and some early obd2's wont store a code for a cylinder misfire. if you havnt yet pull the throttle and clean the IAC valve and maybe think about replacing it and or the throttle positioning sensor. i know its alot of parts to think about but sadly with modern cars one bad sensor can cause alot of common issue which makes them hard to troubleshoot. i had a similar issue on a bravada and after throwing about 200 bucks in sensors at it it ended up being a bad ground hope i gave you some good ideas and good luck!

  • gerald Bowling Feb 26, 2012

    I have a strange thing going on with this 2.0L engine all the relays tested good wiring harness is OK and the sensors check out good but the thing that puzzles me now is that when all sensors are connected the engine gets fuel but no fire? checked using a timing light, now when I disconnect the (new) camshaft sensor and crank the engine I get fire and the engine acts like it wants to start but does not and I can hear popping in the cylinders and after several times this unbrunt fuel will blow back through the trottle body (unbrunt fuel), this could be a timing issue? thats what I checking out now.



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  • 444 Answers

Sounds like you jumped a tooth on your timing belt/chain. the wait to tell is first identify number 1 cylinder, then find number 1 on your cap, place a peace of tape right next to it or mark it with a sharpee marker or scribe a mark, however you do it mark it so you know where it is once the cap is off. then remove the cap and rotate the crank until you are at TDC (top dead cylinder) once there look at the rotor, if its not pointing at your mark than your valve timing is off and you need a new timing set. (if you cant find top dead then remove the valve cover and rotate the engine until all the valves on the number 1 hole are closed. once they are all close this indicates the compression stroke and number 1 is at TDC)

Posted on Feb 12, 2012

  • Josh Canaday
    Josh Canaday Mar 08, 2012

    after reviewing your last post i think your valve timing is off. now the most important thing to find out before you continue is weather or not your engine is an "interference" engine. if it is doe not continue trying to crank the motor over, you will irreversibly damage your engine if the valve timing is out. if it has a distributor then refer to my earlier post to see if the timing is out. if its a coil pack motor then remove the valve cover and spark plus, have an assistant turn the crank by hand and watch the valves over the number 1 cylinder as it approached TDC if all valve for number 1 are closed when at TDC then timing is not the issue, if any of them are open or still moving at TDC then you are out of time. the reason unburnt fuel is blowing back out the throttle is almost certainly because the cylinder is firing while the valves are still open. if its a distributor car check igniton timing first then valve timing. if coil pack car then your cam or crank sensor is throwing a bad signal or your valve timing is out. hope this helps, and once again if you suspect valve timing insure your engine is not an interference motor before continuing to crank the motor (if it is you risk running the top of a piston into the bottom of a valve) sorry it took me a while to get back to you, i was out of town for a bit. good luck!



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SOURCE: 1998 plymouth breeze won't start

I guess my problem was the new crank sensor has failed.
Replace crank sensor again , it has fixed the problem.
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You will need to locate the fuse panel that is inside the engine compartment. You will find it as a black rectangular box just above the battery. open the cover by squeezing the two clips loated on the right side of the lid (or was thet the left? I forget.) and opening the lid like a book cover. Voila! See those little grey (or black) "cubes"? Look at the inside of the lid cover. The "AUTO SHUT DOWN" and "RAD FAN" relays are posted as they are laid out. (The cover CAN be removed if it helps you)

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SOURCE: plymouth breeze

Yes, I had this on my 97 Stratus....could be a couple of, the there may be damage to the wire connector harness going to that sensor. That was the problem with mine. I replaced the cam sensor, crank sensor, coil pack, mas ended up being a burnt spot on the wire harness. They said this is a common problem for the stratus/breeze/cirrus/intrepid.....the most it could be is a bad ECM....there is a bad pin on it located half way down the side where the big connector is. It is the silver block with the big wire harness going to it in the engine compartment. Try wiggling that around...the harness area.

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Auto shut down fuse blows when I start the truck?

This information is straight out of the 1997 Breeze/Stratus/Cirrus Factory Service Manual (Yes I paid the $90 for it years ago)

__________________________________________________ _______________

Automatic Shutdown (ASD) sense - PCM Input

The ASD sense circuit informs the PCM when the ASD relay energizes. A 12 volt signal at this input indicated to the PCM that the ASD has been activated. This input is used only to sense that the ASD relay is energized.
When energized, the ASD relay supplies battery voltage to the fuel injectors, ignition coils, and the heating element in each oxygen sensor. If the PCM does not receive 12 volts from this input after grounding the ASD reley, it sets a Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC).

Automatic Shutdown Relay - PCM Output

The PCM operates the Automatic Shutdown (ASD) relay and fuel pump relay through one ground path. The PCM operates them by switching the ground path for the solenoid side of the realys on and off. Both realys turn on and off at the same time.
The ASD relay connects battery voltage to the fuel injectors and ignition coil. The fuel pump relay connects battery voltage to the fuel pump.
A buss bar in the power distribution center (PDC) supplies voltage to the solenoid side and contact side of the relay. The ASD relay power circuit contains a 20 amp fuse between the buss bar in the PDC and teh relay. The fuse also protects the power circuit for the fuel pump relay and pump. The fuse is located in teh PDC.
The PCM controls the relay by switching the ground path for the solenoid side of the relay on and off. The PCM turns the ground path off when the ignition switch is in the Off position. When the ignition switch is in the On or Crank position, the PCM monitors the crankshaft position sensor and the camshaft position sensor signals to determine engine speed and ignition timing (coil dwell). If the PCM does not receive the crankshaft position sensor and camshaft position when the ignition switch is in teh Run position, it will de-energize teh ASD relay.
The ASD relay and fuel pump relay are located in the PDC near the battery. The inside top of the PCD cover has a label showing relay and fuse location.

ASD and Fuel Pump Relays

The following description of operation and tests apply only to the Automatic Shutdown (ASD) and fuel pump relays. The terminals on the bottom of each relay are numbered.

' __85 ___________'
' __87A '87 '30 ___' Sorry for the crudeness of this. This is supposed to
' __86 ___________' be the relay terminals!

- Terminal number 30 is connected to battery voltage. For both the ASD and fuel pump relays, terminal 30 is connected to battery voltage at all times.
- The PCM grounds the coil side of the relay through terminal number 85.
- Terminal number 86 supplies voltage to the coil side of the relay.
- When the PCM de-energizes the ASD and fuel pump relays, terminal number 87A connects to terminal 30. This is the Off position. In the off position, voltage is not supplied to the rest of the circuit. Terminal 87A is the center terminal on the relay.
- When the PCM energizes the ASD and fuel pump relays, terminal 87 connects to terminal 30. This is the On position. Terminal 87 supplies voltage to the rest of the curcuit.

The following procedure applies to the ASD and fuel pump relays.
(1) Remove relay from connector before testing.
(2) With the relay removed from the vehicle, use an ohmmeter to check the resistance between terminals 85 and 86. The resistance shoud be 75±5 ohms.
(3) Connect the ohmmeter between terminals 30 and 87A. The ohmmeter should show continuity between terminals 30 and 87A.
(4) Connect the ohmmeter between between terminals 87 and 30. The ohmmeter should not show continuity at this time.
(5) Connect one end of a jumper wire (16 guage or smaller) to relay terminal 85. Connect the other end of the jumper wire to the ground side of a 12 volt power source.
(6) Connect on end of another jumper wire (16 guage or smaller) to the power side of the 12 volt power source. Do not attach the other end of the jumper wire to the relay at this time.


(7) Attach the other end of the jumper wire to relay terminal 86. This activates the relay. The ohmmeter should now show continuity between relay terminals 87 and 30. The ohmmeter should not show continuity between relay terminals 87A and 30.
(8) Disconnect jumper wires.
(9) Replace the relay if it did not pass the continuity and resistance tests. If the relay passed the tests, is operates properly. Check the remainder of the ASD and fuel pump curcuits.

__________________________________________________ _______________

I know you said you replaced the relay, and this is a test procedure for the relay, but I have bought bad parts in the past. The description before the test procedure at least gives you an idea of what components are wired through and controlled by the relay. One of those may be faulty. Email me if you want or need wiring diagrams and I should be able to scan them and email them to you.

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Is there a shut off switch to the gas in a 1998 Plymouth Breeze that can be reset

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