Question about 1999 Mazda 626

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Heater blend door for 1999 mazda 626

I have checked the coolant. I have changed the thermostate. The radiator cap seems to be working properly. Both of the hoses exiting the fire wall are hot. I have seperated the AC coil duct enough to look up in to see if any thing is blocking the air flow. All looked clear from what I could see. The heater still blows cool air. I have read about a blend door that could be affecting the tempature. Any help would be fantastic

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Can you hear the door open ? The actuator solinoid may not be working .

Posted on Sep 07, 2017

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: tempature gauge still goes to h

, ckeck the upper hose to see if it is hot , than ckeck the bottom hose , is it cool , the temp sould be about the same .if it is super hot on top and cold at the bottom hose , the raditor may be blocked, and the coolant is not flowing. you can try to flush the radiator . look to see if there metal shaving in the coolant . if there is the radiator is breaking down. this happen to me , my car would over heat change radiator car is a,ok easy fix . radiator barn .com

Posted on Aug 26, 2009

amgibson37
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SOURCE: Heater problem 1999 Mazda 626

under the dash board on the passenger side is where the heater core is located anything associated with the blend doorwould also be located there as well.

Posted on Feb 12, 2012

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No heate in my 1992 Plymouth voyager , remove radiator cap water not moving Not sure why ! Please help


Hard to see coolant circulating through the cap opening. If the engine is not overheating, the coolant is circulating.
To check the heater, first feel both heater hoses at the firewall where the hoses go inside. Both should be hot! If one is hot and one is cool, then the heater core is not circulating, and that is why you have no heat. If both are hot (with engine at normal operating temperature), then the heater core is okay, and the problem may be the heater case doors not operating properly. This is called the temperature blend door problem-common on lots of cars-and caused by either vacuum operated doors or by motor operated doors in the heater case not operating properly. Sometimes the doors break, sometimes the vacuum signal is lost due to leaking vacuum hoses, or the servo canisters not working.
In short, if the heater core is hot (if both heater hoses are hot), and the coolant level is not low, then the problem is probably the heater case. check if the doors in the case are working.

Nov 07, 2016 | 1992 Plymouth Voyager

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Heat troubleshooting


<span>There are a few reasons this might happen to your system.<span> </span>A typical system is shown in the diagram below:<span> </span></span><br /><br /><br /><img src="CC87E1A.jpg" /><br /><br />The system requires hot water from the engine to pass through the heater core and the blend (or mix) door positioned for air pushed by the blower motor to pass through the core.<span> </span>If the <a href="/../cars/r6235876-no_heat_fan_blowing_cold_air#">vehicle</a> has no air conditioning, the evaporator is absent from the system.<span> </span>Some designs also incorporate a control valve in the heater hose to stop coolant flow to the heater core when not in use. The blend door position is actuated by a stepper motor or cable.<br />Typical failure modes are as follows:<br /><span><span>1.<span> </span></span></span>Blend door stuck<br /><span><span>2.<span> </span></span></span>Blend door actuator failed motor or stripped gears<br />3. Blend door cable is broke or needs adjustment<br /><span><span>4.<span> </span></span></span>Temperature control switch failed<br /><span><span>5.<span> </span></span></span>Air pockets in engine cooling system<br /><span><span>6.<span> </span></span></span>Clogged heater core<br /><span><span>7.<span> </span></span></span>Heater coolant control valve failed closed<br />8. Thermostat failed open<br /><br /><b>Troubleshooting:</b><br />First, with your engine hot and the heater turned on, feel the heater hoses in the engine compartment as they attach to the heater core at the firewall.<span> </span>If either of the hoses is cold, the problem is likely a lack of adequate coolant flow.<span> </span><br /><br /><b>No or low coolant flow:<span> </span></b><br />Check for the presence of a control valve in one of the heater hoses--trace the hoses all the way to the engine.<span> </span>Not all vehicles have such valves.<span> </span>If you find one, check to see if it is actuating properly.<span> </span>It should receive a signal of some kind from the heater controls and open when the temperature control is turned to heat.<span> </span>If you cannot determine that the valve is opening, try taking one of the clamps off and removing the hose to see inside the valve. A typical vacuum operated heater flow control valve is shown below:<br /><br /><img src="7FA590D.jpg" /> <br /><br />The valve may also be actuated by a solenoid or wire cable. <br />If you have no valve, next check the cooling system for air. If you have a radiator cap, take it off and look inside.<span> </span>If it is not full, fill it with coolant and start the engine.<span> </span>Turn the heater on and let the engine run until it is warm and the thermostat has opened.<span> </span>Continue to fill the radiator or reservoir until the level stops falling.<span> </span>Check for the presence of any bleed ports in the system.<span> </span>Bleed ports may be on the housings that radiator or heater hoses attach to or may be installed in the hoses themselves.<span> </span>A typical Honda application is shown below:<br /><br /><img src="C655B97.jpg" /><br /><br />For stubborn cases, p<span>ark the <a href="/../#">car</a> uphill, take cap off radiator, start <a href="/../cars/r6235876-no_heat_fan_blowing_cold_air#">car</a>, fill radiator, let it warm up until <a href="/../#">thermostat</a> opens, bleed air out, fill to the neck of the radiator and watch for bubbles coming up. Once you have bled the air, if gas continues to come out, you may have a blown head gasket that is forming bubbles that can block coolant from entering the heater. In these cases, the heater may work well at speed but blow cold at idle.</span><br /><br />Clogged core: If the control valve is open and there is no air in the system, your heater core may be clogged.<span> A quick way to check for a clogged core is to turn the blower motor off for a while and then back on. If it produces warm air for only a short time and then cools down, your core is only passing a small amount of coolant. This can also be caused by a bad control valve, if you car has one or possibly by a weak water pump. </span>You can try flushing the core by removing the heater hoses and attaching a garden hose or other source of water pressure to force water through the core.<span> </span>Use an adapter to make a good seal and connect to the lower pipe to backflush the core.<span> </span>If the core will not flush or allow adequate flow, replace the heater core.<br /><br />Thermostat: if your car temperature is running cold and only warms up when idling, the heater will do the same. This is caused by a thermostat that has failed open, allowing too much coolant to flow through the radiator. <span>.</span><br /><br /><b>Blend door not moving to heat position:</b><br />If you have coolant flow through the heater core, the problem is with the blend door.<span> </span>The blend door is almost always actuated from under the dashboard.<span> </span>Many systems use an electric motor to actuate the blend door.<span> </span>Check any heater or A/C fuses before tearing into your system.<span> </span>You may need to remove a partition to see the actuator.<span> </span>The door should be to the right of center under the dash.<span> </span>A typical electric motor actuator design is shown below.<br /><br /><img src="4ED4FC8.jpg" /> <br /><br />The actuator can be on the top front or bottom of the duct.<span> </span>Consult a manual for your vehicle if you cannot locate the actuator.<span> </span>Once you can see the actuator, watch it while you change the temperature setting (key on unless it is cable operated).<span> </span>If the actuator doesn't move or turn, troubleshoot the reason.<span> </span>Systems such as the one in the above picture typically fail in the shaft attach or the internal gears on the actuator.<span> </span>If your actuator is getting power but not moving the door, replace the actuator.<span> </span>If the actuator is not getting power, troubleshoot the control switch.<span> </span>Due to the wide variety of designs, we cannot provide test tips for electric blend door control switches.<br />Whether your blend door is electric or cable operated, remove the actuator and operate the door with your hand.<span> </span>If the door sticks, the heater box must be removed and opened to free the door and restore unhindered operation.<br />If your blend door is cable operated, check the cable for proper attachment at the control lever and at the door lever.<span> </span>The cable sheath must be properly adjusted and firmly clamped for proper operation.<span> </span>To adjust, first remove the cable from the door and move the door lever with your hand to observe the range of motion.<span> </span>Then set the control to full hot, open the door fully, and reattach the cable, clamping the sheath so as to ensure the door opens fully when set to hot.<br />

on Jan 31, 2011 | Dodge Caravan Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Heater problem 1999 Mazda 626


under the dash board on the passenger side is where the heater core is located anything associated with the blend doorwould also be located there as well.

Feb 12, 2012 | 1999 Mazda 626

1 Answer

Heat not working in 1998 mazda milleni S


OK if heat no blowing out just cool air #1 check your engine coolant level add if needed to res bottle and radiator, (wait until engine is cool to the touch before opening the radiator cap under pressure when hot!)#2 if good on coolant and your engine is getting to normal opperating temp as always you may have a clogged heater core, if so you can test the heater core flow by removing the to heater hoses mounted at fire wall in your engine compartment and with a garden hose at low volume push water through one of the two copper hoses coming out of your fire wall if the entering amount of water is coming out the other copper pipe then your heater core is good.#3 then if all the above is good and working your dealing with a blend door not operating properly inside your heater box located under your dash (not for the non experience to repair)

Jan 10, 2012 | Mazda Millenia Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

I have a 1999 Mazda 626 2.0L that is having a overheating problem. I had pulled over and the radiator cap was cold so was the fluid and there doesn't seem to be any loss of water. I changed out the...


Physically look in the radiator under the cap for coolant level, and check the valve in the cap for sticking. If air is present in the radiator it can't get out, and more coolant can't get in,(from the overflow). Either clean the cap or replace it and check that it is the CORRECT cap.
Radiator fins dirty, clean with a strong stream of water, not high pressure water.
Radiator clogged, have it boiled out, or replace.
Thermostat stuck open or shut, replace it.
Water pump worn out, can no longer move enough coolant, replace it.
Fan shroud broken or missing....
Electric Fan(s) not working, Check the fan, relay, fuse and engine temperature sensor's.
Belt driven fan, belt slipping, fan clutch is bad, fan blades have flattened out.

Air dam under front bumper is gone, loose, or broken. It actually has a purpose other than scraping on the driveway or curbs. It forces air up into and thru the condenser and radiator. If it

Aug 17, 2011 | 1999 Mazda 626

1 Answer

My heater won't get hot


Could be a cooling system problem; Ranges from a leak in the radiator, radiator hoses, coolant reservoir, low coolant, even a bad coolant reservoir cap could cause it. Also water pump is a possibility. If not those, could be a bad blend door actuator.

Jan 04, 2011 | 1999 GMC Yukon

2 Answers

Replace my blower still I have no heat


This may seem silly, but it may possibly be the problem. Check your coolant levels. If there is not enough water in your cooling system, the heat won't be enough to warm you up. Be careful not to remove the radiator cap unless the engine is cooled down.
Other factors can be vacuum leaks in the doors that open and direct air flow to your climate control system. Can be the heater valve to the core is stuck closed. Hope this helps,
Best, Mark

Dec 29, 2010 | 1999 GMC Suburban

2 Answers

Overheating


The first thing to check would be the coolant level, do this when engine is cool, if its full of coolant then my next step would be to make sure the fans are turning on, the most common thing would be a thermostant, you may want to start there and then see if it still overheats, if it does then take alook at the electric fans, if they are not turning on you may have a bad sensor that controls the fans to turn on at a certain temp,that part would be the coolant temp sensor, but start with the thermostant and checking the coolant level.

Aug 29, 2010 | 1999 Mazda 626

2 Answers

No heat 98 lincoln mark viii


sounds like you may just have an air column in the system.Try this,Remove the radiator cap,start the car,turn heat on high,wait for the car to reach normal operating temp,and add coolant as needed.(if you watch inside the radiator,as soon as the car reaches operating temp,the water level will drop,That is the time to add more)

Jan 13, 2009 | 1996 Lincoln Mark VIII

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