Question about Cars & Trucks
Posted by Anonymous on
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
jack car up ,remove the wheels then take a brake drum off and clean the shoes off and make sure wheel cylinder is free on both pistons ,then clean the rusty lip off with a small angle grinder ,then adjust the shoes up with the automatic adjuster so when drum is replaced it just slides over the shoes and they can be heard to just scuff the drum when turned ,tap around the outside of the drum and check for rubbing noise again if none heard then adjust shous up another click on the auto adjuster .slacken handbrake cable off before you start though so its right back ,then when shoes are adjusted correctly adjust cable till you have 3 clicks on the handbrake ,the cable adjuster is under or at the back of the handbrake lever ,
Posted on Sep 21, 2009
SOURCE: cylinder head
Mate .I am not sure on your model but all cylinder start at the middle 2 bolts and work their way out in a circular sequence.This is to put a head on.To take if is pretty much the reverse.Get it checked for warp and machine it if need be.This will save another head gasket being blown.ALWAYS retension the head after about 1000 km.Hope this helps
Posted on Jan 10, 2010
SOURCE: water leak into driver footwell
Hi, I've had this problem and spent hours with my Wife watering the front scuttle area with the wipe mechanism removed. I hope at last I've narrowed it down to an area where the brake booster to attached to the firewall. Rather than take it out I've used a cleaning gun on a compressor and fired heaps (and heaps) or black soundproofing tarry solution down around, in and about the right side as you look from the front. Certainly at this stage the water running inside has decreased markedly and I've given it one last blast this morning. I'm optimistic this will cure.
Posted on Jan 11, 2011
It's a 1 hour job visit advancedtuning.co.uk for contact details, We can remove or set all combo limiters including british gas combos
Posted on May 30, 2011
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