My sc400 is automatic and when it starts up when in park it is fine. If you put it in neutral it idles higher. Then in drive it goes back to normal. Now, if i leave the car to warmup for about 5mins. then it starts to stumble and idle roughly. I recently changed the ignition coils and replaced the spark plugs.
I believe that it may be the idle air control valve, but not sure. No codes, except for an oil pressure light, but the oil seems to be pumping up to the top fine. So back to the idle problem... when it's warm and stumbling on the idle... if i throw it into drive or reverse it stalls! If i give it some gas it will not stall. Please help!
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Feb 11, 2006 - engine dies when shifting into reverse or drive ... After it dies it starts right up and idles fine in park or neutral. ... these ignition items because you weretrying to cure the stalling, or, did the stalling occur after you replaced these items? ...The only thing that kept the car running was adjusting the Idle screw up.
Jul 5, 2012 - 18 posts - 4 authors
Just to give an update on my car - I've been having an issue with the car stalling when moving from Park into Reverse or Drive (I have automatic). ... I have been playing with the idle advance trying to get more ... I put in the remainder of the AT fluid I had on hand and the car never died on shifting after that.
I'd be checking all of the vacuum hoses and the PVC valve.
Also it wouldn't hurt to put some fuel conditioner like SEAFOAM through it.
My approach tends to be to make sure the basics are looked after before starting to second guess for major problems.
Engine stalls or RPM
fluctuates at idle up and down or dies near idle.
is commonly caused by a dirty automatic idle speed control valve and
throttle valve but always run a OBD2 fault code as well as the
cleaning procedure. Buy a can of throttle valve cleaner (do not use
carburetor spray cleaner!) from NAPA or Carquest (made by CRC
chemicals) and spray it into the air intake while the engine is
running, use up about 1/2 the can, engine will try to stall hold the
speed up, shut it down and let it soak for 30 minutes, restart and
blow out the remaining fluid, shut it down and disconnect the
negative battery cable for 5 Min's to reset the base idle control
The problem is the torque converter solenoid. I had it happen on my 94 Cavalier a few years back and was a cheap fix at the local car mechanic. What happens is the transmission warms up and hits a certain speed where the solenoid engages, but then it sticks and won't disengage until it cools down sufficiently. When it sticks, it causes the car to shake when slowing down and will snub out the engine if you come to a stop.