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To put it as simple as I can --the faster you go the more fuel you use-- Not rocket science really.-- At the recommended speed the vehicle is in the optimal torque range and is returning the best economy for that speed . any thing over and it takes a big nose dive.. At the recommended speed you have maximum control of the vehicle and it will last the longest time . Now you have to improve the economy by paying attention to the following items
Tyre width , size pressure is critical to economy
Loads being carried at speed is critical to economy
Add-ons such as load racks add to fuel usage so take them off.
Fast take offs at lights uses fuel. If you let the engine bog down instead of changing gears will use fuel.
Not using the cruise control uses more fuel as every time you alter the accelerator pedal position that is extra fuel being used.
Using E fuel mixes will lower economy. So economy is a matter of your driving habits and not of the make of vehicle.
If you want better economy at the speed syou travel at then visit a speed shop and have the CPU re-chipped for more power at the higher rpm's but be aware that it may void your warranty on the vehicle.
hot or cold engine , or both.?
the oil pressure will be in direct ratio to engine rpm. slow low, fast high
due to the oil pump connection to engine crankshaft.
stalls.: can be caused by 50 things, or just 4 in physics.
the EGR valve (if you have one, no engine stated)
can stick open and stall any engine, and in fact LOVES to. clean it.
1: list 12vdc to EFI. (spark and fuel brain) dash lights dim?
2: lost compression hot, ? compression tests.
3: lost spark, do spark tests. and timing, checks.
4: bad fueling, too much if floods, and misfires and stalls.
too little fuel, it starves and dies.
the 1 free test, is can you save the stall with a fast right foot.
we do the tests. avoiding those 50 guesses....
each tests are simple and the tools dirt cheap .
pull the fuse and look for the missing link in it. The main reason for bad fuel economy is the modules and computers and the feedback that they get from the sensors. If the check engine light comes on that means quick, repair something because it is cheaper to fix than the cost of the fuel that you will waste. A lot of fuel will go right out the tail pipe unburned and pollute the environment.
Most of the time this happens, it is due to a loose fuel cap. The system senses that the tank is not pressurized and send a fault as if th cap is missing. Ensure the cap is on tight and allow for a few days to let the system reset itself. Other that that, most check engine light fault are due to failed or failing components in the Emmissions...these include EGR valves, PVC valve, and O2 sensors. If you are not experiencing less that optimum fuel economy, you may just have a bad seal at the fuel cap. I hope this information helps narrow down the problem.
Hello! The gas vapor system, which is under pressure, must be purged...Without the ability to purge fuel will not flow...This is the reason the engine will not idle...Because you smell gas vapors is an indication the vapor canis ter purge valve is either defective or has an open/broken vacuum line...Follow the vacuum diagram under the hood and trace all lines..."tired" vacuum lines will **** closed, replace any cracked, broken or soft lines...If this does not solve the problem replace the purge valve...See picture below...guru...saailer...
There is a fuel cutoff set by the cars computer that limits the RPM's of the engine to prevent engine damage. If its cutting out below say 5000 rpm, then theres a problem. The check engine light being on steady means one of the sensors detected something the computer doesnt like. Get the car to a good mechanic to scan the light and retrieve the trouble code. That will tell you what the problem is. Some auto parts stores, like Auto Zone, will scan the light for free.