Question about 1997 Toyota RAV4
REPLACING CLUTCH STEPS
Posted by Anonymous on
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: toyota rav 4
I work for Toyota, and I will be glad to provide you with the actual answer:
The RAV/4 product is available in two models, a 4WD model and a 2WD model.
The difference between the two is on the 2WD model, there is no driveshaft going under the vehicle to the rear wheels, and no rear differential. There is no "RAV/2"; both models are called RAV/4's.
There is a lot of common confusuion about how the 4WD works. It is full time 4WD. In other words, it is always in 4WD. It does not "kick in/kick out/automatically engage", or anything like that. It is 4WD all of the time. But, when I say "4WD", that is sometimes mistaken for "all wheel drive", and, in this case, the RAV/4 is not "AWD". What this means is that if you raise the RAV/4 up on a lift, and put it in gear, 1 rear and the other side front tires will spin. True "all wheel drive" would have ALL 4 wheels spinning. This is not the case with the Rav/4. What the RAV does have, making up for not having "True AWD" on the 5 speed model, however, is a switch that locks the center differential in the transfer case, which, when engaged, applies a method of "locking" the 4WD system for maximum traction, but it is still not AWD. The automatic version doe not have this ability.
The last "true AWD" vehicle for purchase was a 1970's International Scout.
If you are considering purchasing a RAV/4, that is a very good investement. They hold their value quite well, and are virtually bulletproof; I do not make any "money" off my RAV/4 customers...
Just "gas station work". Very nice cars. I hope that this helps you, please feel free to comment back with any otherr questions...Glad to be of assistance.
Posted on Oct 17, 2008
I see. sounds like you need a new clutch. OK, here is a step by step guide to follow. it will help with the removal and installation of your new clutch.
Remove the Old Clutch Step1 Verify that your vehicle's clutch is the source of your problems and not the pedal-arm bushings, activating cables or the slave-master cylinder. Step2 Unhook the positive battery cable, the clutch cable or hydraulic slave cylinder to get the transaxle ready for easy removal. Eliminate anything that may hinder your efforts, including exhaust pipes and the speedometer. Step3 Secure your car in a safe position before jacking up the front end. Step4 Stabilize the engine with a jack below the oil pan. Remove the transaxle by undoing at least one engine mount. Step5 Separate the engine from the transaxle by removing the bolts that surround the flywheel bell housing. Step6 Push the transaxle away from the engine until the input shift clears the pressure plate. Step7 Disengage the bolts surrounding the pressure plate and take it and the clutch disc out. Check to see if the flywheel's friction surface is scored, checked or has hot spots. Remove, machine and reinstall the flywheel, if needed. Step8 Examine the pilot bearing (bushing) located at the flywheel's center to be sure the needle bearings are lubricated and that there's no galling. Also look for any oil leaking around the rear main engine seal. Replace the clutch Step1 Follow the instructions for replacing your car's clutch carefully to avoid having to remove the transaxle. Step2 Check that the transaxle's input shaft isn't leaking; replace if needed. Step3 Take out the flywheel and the old seal and install a new seal. Install a New Clutch Step1 Clean the crankshaft flange before putting in the flywheel. With the flywheel on top of the flange, secure the bolts in a star formation to the specified torque for your vehicle. Step2 Install the clutch disc and pressure plate. Prior to putting in the transaxle, attach the new release bearing to the release fork. The fork should move freely. Step3 Hoist the transaxle into position and move it forward until the input shaft glides into the clutch disc's spindled hole. Do not apply force. Step4 Reinstall any bolts or mounts that were removed to replace your car's clutch. Grab the transaxle, release the jack and lower your vehicle. Step5 Consider replacing your car's clutch cable. If you don't replace the cable at least adjust it for the right amount of free-play. Step6 Confirm that your clutch's self-adjusting action is performing correctly by depressing the slave cylinder's piston into its bore. Step7 Drive your car to be sure your clutch is working properly.
PLease rate and god bless:)
Posted on Apr 03, 2009
SOURCE: Replace fuel filter
1. Open the hood and access the relay panel on the Right side of the engine bay
2. Open the fuel cap
3. Start the engine
4. Pull the relay for the fuel pump (listed on the bottom side of the relay panel lid)
5. Wait for engine to stop
6. Turn key off
7. Disconnect negative battery cable
8. **** wheels to car
9. Slide under the driver's side around the B pillar area
9. Look on the interior side of the frame rail and you will find the filter assembly
10. Place a drain pan under filter
11. Disconnect the rigid fuel line with a 14mm opne wrench (I think)
12. Disconnect the quick coupling on the aft part of the assembly buy lifting up on the red plastic pience and turning
13. Unbolt the center bolt and pull out the filter
14. Pop in the new filter and reverse order.
Posted on Dec 12, 2009
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