My advice is to buy a haynes repair manual from autozone there only $20 and have alot of other usefull time saving info. The primary and secondary resistance specs are listed on the first page of the engine-electrical chapter. You'll have a hard time finding this info on the web for free and you can take a chance that it wont be acurate.
a 6ya Mechanic can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
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it sounds like either your not getting spark, or fuel at the engine. it could be the coil packs/plug wires or the fuel pump/filter its hard to say what to do first. when you get in the car and turn the ignition on to the position just before turning the engine over you should be able to hear the fuel pump kick on in an attempt the prime the fuel system. if you can smell fuel at the engine after cranking for a few seconds its probably getting fuel. if you have access to an ohm meter with a wire clamp you can test each of your plug wires as you crank it to see if your getting spark. each coil pack sends spark through two plug wires. if you cant read a signal from two of the plug wires trace them back to the coil packs and if they go to the same coil pack that coil pack has gone bad. if they go to separate coil packs you may have two coil packs malfunctioning. this is where i would start i hope it helps.
Unplug the spark plug wires from the coil and label the wires
if necessary for proper installation.
Unplug the pack's electrical connector and remove the coil
pack from the engine, using a wrench or ratchet and socket if necessary. If your
coil pack is mounted on the back of the engine, raise the front of the vehicle
and safely support it on two jack stands to reach the coil pack from underneath
Set your ohmmeter to the 20000 ohms range. Turn on your meter
and touch the spark plug wire terminals on one of the coils with the meter
leads. You may get a reading between 5000 to 15000 ohms, depending on your
particular model. This checks the secondary resistance.
Set your ohmmeter to the 10 ohms range, and touch the
terminal B+ (usually the center prong on the coil pack electrical connector)
with one of the meter test leads, and touch the corresponding coil prong on the
electrical connector with the other test lead. You may get a reading between 0.3
and 1.0 or more, depending on your particular model. This checks the primary
resistance on each coil.
Repeat steps 6 and 7 for each coil in the pack assembly, and
compare your resistance readings to the specifications given on your vehicle
service manual (see "Tips"). If your readings are out of range, replace the
coil or coils as necessary.
it could be anything but i would say you should check the ignition coils first. you can do this by testing the resistance in the coil packs. make sure the engine is off and the key is not in the ignition. if you set your voltmeter to ohms take the 2 ignition wires off of one coil pack. touch your voltmeter lead wires to the 2 posts on the ignition coil. it should read 4000-8000 ohms if you have a bad coil it will usually be close to 0 ohms. do this test for all coil packs. each coil pack ignites 2 cylinders so if you have a v6 you will need to test 3 packs and 4 packs on a v8
This is a stretch - but strong possibility.
Please don't zing me too hard for trying...
I believe that the 12v wire or its connectors are impeding the flow of current to the coil. The coil is trying to provide 60k volts from a good current rate at the 12volt feed. If one of the conductor/connectors is bad (imposing resistence to adequate current flow), then I can realize the coil pack overheating... and eventually failing....
have you tried changing the coil pack? they are simply a coil of wires inside. they easily go bad. just to be sure switch one of the coil packs to make sure its not a problem with the wiring, if the problem switches cylinders replace the coil pack
First start by checking to see if the spark work and do not have a bunch of junk built up on them. If they do, clean them with a wire brush or replace them if they are real bad. If they do not, check the gap on the spark plugs to make sure that it is gapped right for the specific car. If those were not the problems take your spark plug wires off and use an ohm meter to check the resistance of the wires by putting the positive and negative wires of the meter on the ends of each wire. If one or a few of the readings are far from the rest you should try replacing the wires. BE SURE TO PUT THE WIRES BACK ON IN THE ORIGINAL ORDER. If all plugs and wires are fine check the coil packs to be sure they are working. Pull one wire off of the coil pack and have some one hold a grounded, WELL INSULATED wire close to, but not touching, the part the wire snaps on to the coil pack. Turn the engine over to see if it sparks. KEEP HANDS AWAY FROM COIL WHILE TESTING. Believe me it doesnt feel good to get shocked. I know from experience. Do this for each wire on the coil packs. If one does not spark do then the coil pack is bad and needs replaced. If you have a car with a distributor pull the distributor cap off and check for cracks. If its cracked it needs replaced. This is as far as i have ever had to go so i hope it works. Good luck.
Check fuel pressure at idle it should be 30psi. Check coil packs and boots for tears. If euip: Check coil packs with a volt meter should read I think was 5-7 volts or resist ens. Also check the spark plugs its probably still got all the factory stuff on it unless you change it. Let me know I had a 98 Continetal and some of the coil packs and boots on the coil packs where bad after fixing that the car was one of the best car's I have ever owned. Until someone ran into it doing 65mph.
I have seen coil packs go bad on several Hyundai Accents, the coils will do exactly what they are supposed to (hence your check with an ohm meter), however, the coils short through the outer casing. Try running the car when it is dark out and spraying the coil packs with water. Listen for clicking and watch for arching from the coils to any metal around them. Look for abnormal detonation marks in the outer casing. My guess is you just need a set of new coils. If the Problem is worse in the rain then you have found your problem. Remember, If your car has been misfiring (as noted by the engine codes you listed), the EGR valve can become clogged and damage can be done to your catalytic converter as unburned fuel detonates inside it (keep an eye out for O2 codes in the future). Also, your new plugs can become fouled, be sure they are clean once you fix the problem. Checking your plugs can also be a useful indication of which cylinder is misbehaving.
you need a 6 inch extension, short 3/8 ratchet, 5/8 plug socket, 3/8 swivel "u" joint, (sold at sears) 8mm 1/4 drive socket deep well and 1/4 inch ratchet.
find the coil packs (6 total, three in each head.)
remove the two retaining nuts holding each coil pack using 1/4 8mm socket and ratchet.
twist the pack to break the sticking boot below.
pull up (be careful to not rip the boots however it may still happen but rare.)
remove coil packs, the rear is a little more difficult with the intake.
use 6" extension and u joint and ratchet to remove plugs and replace.
reverse order to assemble. Good luck, and hoped this helped.