Question about 2006 Chrysler Town & Country
The rear blower seems to work only on high,but the front blower doesn't respond at all.
Read some of the suggested solutions about the resistor pack which is built in in most vehicles so its a complete new motor only thats sold ,but the front one i would still expect it to work on high unless the switch is faulty so check it out with a meter first to see if it has power as the front one may have popped a fuse as fuses can go with age without their being a fault with the electrics
Posted on Feb 10, 2012
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: blower fan only runs in high(#4)
The blower fan resistor has gone bad and needs tobe replaced, You can go to Auto Zone and buy the new blower fan resistor for much less then the dealer and Auto Zone will have the step by step instructions to replacing the blower resistor with common tools, Good luck and hope this helps. keep me posted, be glad to answer any other questions you may have.
Posted on Jul 29, 2009
THE REASON THE BLOWER ONLY WORKA ON HIGH IS BECAUSE OF SOMETHING CALLED THE BLOWER MOTOR RESISTOR. THIS IS A BLOCK WITH ABOUT THREE DIFFERENT RESISTORS ON IT WHICH CONTROL THE AMOUNT OF VOLTAGE THAT REACHES THE BLOWER MOTOR THUS GIVING YOU YOUR DIFFERENT SPEEDS.
THIS BLOCK IS USUALLY LOACATED BEHIND THE GLOVE BOX AND IS BOLTED TO THE HEATER HOUSING.
Posted on Jun 09, 2010
Testimonial: "Thank you! Changed that out and it works like it should. I now have more settings than off and high."
It sounds like vacuum is not getting to the vent, heat and A/C controls. Find the vacuum can. It may be under the hood on one of the inner fenders. The "one-way" check valve is usually located in the line and close to the can, make sure it works properly. The valve could be the very thing that's causing the problem. Trace the lines back to the vacuum block at the intake manifold or fire-wall, and also back to where the line goes thru the fire-wall. Check the can for leaks or obvious holes. They used to be just a plain metal can, but it could be a plastic ball. Check the lines as you go, for breaks and rub-thru's. Move the controls thru all settings and listen for vent door movement. Worst case is a bad vacuum motor or air flow position selector switch, and/or a faulty Blend Door Actuator. If you have been driving around with the Temperature knob or control set at the same spot for months, move it from fully cold to fully hot several times and wait for the air temperature to change each time. This will help reset the blend door and vacuum control system. Hope this helps... Let me know what you find.
Posted on Aug 30, 2011
Is there enough anti-freeze in the system?
If so perhaps the system needs bleeding.
On the front of the engine, on top near the big upper hose goose neck and nestled between the runners of the intake manifold is a small nipple that looks like a brake bleeder (10MM). This is a cooling system bleeder, a close cousin to the brake bleeder. When opened it will purge the system of air- likely the culpret you are experiencing. on a cold or just warm engine, this can be slightly opened with a wrench and the air can be "Burped" out. Attach a 1/4" clear hose to the nipple and open the bleeder until you see all the air has left the manifold. (Run the hose into a bucket and dispose of the used anti-freeze properly.)
if that doesn't do it, maybe the thermostat is stuck in the open position. Replace it with a cold engine and use a new gasket each time.
If all else fails, the heater core may be plugged.
Posted on Nov 30, 2011
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