I have resently purchesed a 95 jetta gl five speed that had a blown head gasket. the head was warped so i shaved it down (properley) and put a complete gasket kit back in to it. when i had it back to gether it would start but it idles low and when you hit the gas it stalls, then it will not start again four several hours. At first i thought it was the fuel pressure regulater, i got a new one and still the same problem. it has spark, fuel and compression. i think that it could possibly be the timing but im almost positive that i timed it correctly. any ideas?
What Wheelercolts says is exellent, in addition to all he says, take the ignition cap of, and when all marks are on the dot, look at the rotor. It has to be aligned with a mark that's on the body of the distribuitor.
I have seen timing issues with the 95 jetta when your crank and cam marks are off a tooth, when you reset this it will not start. Remove the harmonic balancer and the lower crank sprocket, look for the sheer pin to be missing. replace lower sprocket if sheer pin gone. when set your crank and cam marks and put timing belt on. Tip, there is a timing plug on the top of the bell housing near block, usually green, remove plug . look for mark on flywheel and on tranny. if all three line up your timed correctly. good luck.
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If its coming from the reservoir lid, something is causing overheat. Most likely fans are not working. You can test the fans themselves by pulling the plug off of the sensor about midway up the drivers side of the radiator. short the 2 similar contacts and both fans should come on low speed. short right contacts and they should come on high. if this works your fans themselves are good. look at the fan relay (mounted with 2 bolts under the reservoir) or the temp sensor itself.
probably a blown head gasket or warped head from severe overheating. "worth it?" how much work are you willing to do?if you pull the head and its not too warped a machine shop may be able to plain the head and get if flat again there are tolerances to consider (valve clearance/ max amount that can be removed from head) or if the block was affected it may be a lost cause if you shave down one head you should do the same on the other head as well. hope this helps
Seems you have a blown head gasket. To replace a blown head gasket, the cylinder head must be removed from the engine. Once the head is off, the mating surfaces of both the head and block should be inspected for flatness as well as any damage that might have contributed to the gasket's failure or might prevent a new gasket from sealing properly. If the head is warped, it will not seal the new gasket properly and sooner or later it will again fail. Resurfacing and/or straightening the head may be necessary. An inspection of the head may also reveal cracks or other damage that will have to be repaired before it can go back on your engine.
You may very well have an internal leak as in a blown head gasket. If you see white smoke from the exhaust and it smells sweet that is a definate sign you do. You may also notice a white foam on the underside of the oil cap and the oil level may be over full. Remove the radiator cap, engine cold, and start the engine. If you see air bubbles escaping you have a blown head gasket or cracked head. Stop driving the car until you verify this with a compression test. Severe engine damage will occur if you continue to drive this car, if the head gasket is blown.
It is very likely the overheating has blown the cylinder head gasket and coolant is getting into cylinders or compression is leaking from cylinder to cylinder or both, you will need to remove the cylinder head and have it checked for warp-age and shaved flat by a machine shop if ness, and replace heat gasket.
Yes, a machine shop is the best way.
A warp can be so slight that you won't see it with out the proper equipment.
Just make sure to tell them, you want an estimate before anything is done to it.
If it is warped, they can do a shave to straighten it.
They can also check your valves and valve seats while it is in there.