Question about 1997 Acura TL Series
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: 2005 Acura tl brake replacement
The Brembos that come on Type S/Manual models wear fast. I've changed them at 20,000 miles. They are expensive also.
Non-Type S/Manual models I have seen go 80,000 miles. The biggest factor on brake wear is how the vehicle is driven.
At 50,000 miles I would have them inspected. Depending on where you go, make sure you get an accurate measurement of both pads (inboard and outboard). 2mm is the service limit and about that time the indicators start making noise, but not always. Most indepent shops are going to sell you brake pads at 4mm. That's another 10,000 miles at least you could have driven on them.
Never replace just the brake pads, resurface or replace the rotors. The uneven surfaces of the rotor will cause your new pads to wear incorrectly and possibly cause brake noise. Most aftermarket pads will cause a squeel.
Posted on Sep 21, 2008
Look for the end of the wire retainer clip. Unhook it and lift it up. Remember not to touch the bulb. But if you do, just clean it with a bit of alcohol.
btw - Here's a bit of info from a previous post of mine...
The low beams consist of three parts. The bulb, inverter/ballast and the ignitor. The bulbs usually start to loose their color long before they burn out. The inverters/ballasts either go out after a while or take a while to start up.
Before you spend money on a new bulb, try swapping it with the one on the other side. You'll need a security torx screwdriver to get the covers off of the back of the lights. Don't touch the glass bulbs. If you do, just clean them with a bit of alcohol.
If the problem stays on that side, try swapping the ignitors. They're mounted inside the black covers.
If the problem is still on that side you've got a bad inverter. They're mounted on the bottom of the headlight assembly. You'll need to remove the front bumper and remove the headlight assembly to get to it. (I recommend you take pictures as you remove things so can put them back together correctly.)
Posted on Jan 05, 2009
This starter can be changed without disassembling the top of the engine on the 2.5 with automatic transmission. You will need a 10mm, 14 mm, 17mm, and a 9mm wrench. First with any electrical repair disconnect the battery at the negative terminal. The starter is on the driver's side close to the firewall below the intake manifold. Remove the transmission dip stick so you don't ruin it, then look and study the starter itself. You will notice the starter drive housing with a top and bottom bolt. The top bolt is a 14mm and the bottom a 17mm, loosen both a half turn. Remove the top 14mm bolt first, then the bottom 17mm, this will allow you to pull the starter out of the bell housing. With some angling and no brackets holding the back of the starter you should be able to pull it out enough to disconnect the positive wire and 9mm nut from the soleniod. Disconnect the starter ignition small wire by pulling it off it's connector. Now just pull it out of the engine and fender void and you've got it, saving about a hundred and fifty dollars of labor. Take it to the parts house and match it up with a well made remanufactured or new starter. Reverse the proceedure, hook up the battery.
Posted on Mar 19, 2009
grantgga2: I don't think this is one you are going to want to try to change out.
It entails having to remove the left axle and part of the exhaust pipe to gain access to the starter. At that point, you have one bolt which goes in at the bottom from the starter side and bolts to the engine. The other bolt passes through the trans axle housing and bolts into the starter, pulling it up to the engine.
SCARED YA HUH? I'D SAY FROM A 1-10 FOR A WEEK END WARRIOR, IT WOULD BE ABOUT A 6.
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Posted on May 03, 2009
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