Question about 1990 Dodge Dakota
Idles rough and almost dies at stop signs. When under way will sputter like it's not getting fuel. Replaced the fuel filter thinking that might be it, no change. Possible new EGR, new fuel pump or ECM?
Had the same issues over the past 2 months replace everything fuel related and I could hear my fuel pump so I didn't bother with that. Finally gave in and brought it to a mech. Even though my pump was working it was only producing 8psi instead of 18. Replaced it and haven't had problems since
Posted on Jul 26, 2012
My guess is a burnt valve - check compression.
Posted on Feb 10, 2012
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: Location of EGR Valve
Found the info!!
This Dodge EGR valve is a certain kind of device that is mounted right on your intake manifold which controls the amount of exhaust gasses back into your engine.
On a 2005 Dakota with 4.7 liter engine (non-HO), the EGR valve is located near the intake manifold on the driver's side right up against the firewall. It's hard to spot as it sits lower than the intake manifold. To change it, remove the electrical connector. There's a red tab that needs to be pushed to one side and then you have to squeeze down on a tab to get it free. Using a 13 mm socket, remove the bolt that you can see. I had to use a 3 inch wobble extention and then a 8 inch extension with a deep well socket to reach it with my 3/8 inch ratchet. There's a second bolt that you can't see between the EGR valve and the firewall. With a little trial and error and a lot more luck, you can reach the hidden bolt with the 3 inch wobble extension and a 13 mm deep well socket. Attach the ratchet after the socket is on and remove. This one isn't easy and if there's any Dodge engineers reading this one, a couple of extra inches of clearance between the valve and the firewall wouldn't have killed you no matter what the cost accountants said. With both bolts removed, you should be able to pull out the metal pipe that connects the manifold to the EGR valve out of the manifold (Pull to the right) and then you can lift the valve out. For assembly, the metal pipe connecting the intake manifold the EGR valve has to be removed and reinstalled on the new valve. It's held on with 2 5/16th" bolts. You should put the rear bolt on tight, but leave the front bold loose for the reinstall as some adjustment is necessary to get it put back together and the rear is a pain to tighten when installed. Line up the bolts that attach the valve and get the rear 13 mm bolt (The one you couldn't see on disassembly) started. Do not start the other 13 mm bolt as you'll need to pivot the valve and pipe to the left in order to reinsert the pipe into the intake manifold. Once the pipe is in the intake manifold. Start the other 13 mm bolt and tighten both 13 mm bolts and then the 5/16" bolts holding the pipe onto the valve. Reinstall the electrical connection. Please don't forget to rate!!!!
Posted on Mar 14, 2009
1994 Dodge Dakota V6. Intermittant starting problem then finally stopped starting at all. Thought it was the fuel pump as I wasn't getting any pressure on the fuel rail when checked. $180+ later found the fuel pump wasn't getting power. Had already checked the relays and fuses...everything good there. Ignition switch is new, could it be the Engine Control module??
Posted on Sep 15, 2009
ASD is in the engine compartment fuse block.
The pump relay should be there also. Check your fuse panel in the truck though.
Fuses, Relays & Circuit Breakers The fuse panel box is to the right of the glove box with the glove box door opened or beneath the instrument panel (dashboard) on 1989-93 models.
Pull out the fuse panel for access to the blade type fuses
Posted on Oct 18, 2009
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May 07, 2017 | 1990 Dodge Dakota
Apr 21, 2013 | 1993 Dodge Dakota
can be low fuel pressure issue or clogged fuel pump. Or its engine related
the help link mentioned below to troubleshoot the problem: ------
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details will help.
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Engine stalling and rough run
issue at low speeds
is commonly caused by a dirty automatic idle speed control valve and
throttle valve. Buy a can of throttle valve cleaner (do not use
carburetor spray cleaner!) from NAPA or Carquest (made by CRC
chemicals) and spray it into the air intake while the engine is
running, use up about 1/2 the can, engine will try to stall hold the
speed up, shut it down and let it soak for 30 minutes, restart and
blow out the remaining fluid, shut it down and disconnect the
negative battery cable for 5 Min's to reset the base idle control. If this doesn't improve the problem you have mechanical problems in the engine like a low cylinder die to worn rings or leaking valve seats.
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