Question about 2000 Chevrolet Tahoe
The only time you should have to bleed the brakes is if you opened a bleeder screw, repaired a brake line, replaced a brake hose, replaced a caliper/wheel cylinder, or replaced the master cylinder.
If you have not opened up the hydraulic system than it is not necessary to bleed the brakes.
It can be beneficial to flush the brake system. Brake fluid is hygroscopic which means it likes to absorb moisture. If your brake fluid is dark in color or even green (green color is caused by the erosion of the inside of the brake lines do to water contamination) it wouldn't hurt to flush the brake system. this would essentially be bleeding all four corners until clear fluid comes out. Water in the brake system reduces the boiling point of the brake fluid which can lead to brake failure under extreme braking conditions.
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Posted on Feb 10, 2012
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: BRAKE BOOSTER?
A bad brake booster will result in a hard brake pedal, stiff and more effort required to stop the truck. Here are my questions to you, first, you said you replaced the master cylinder, did you bench bleed it before you installed it? If not, there IS still air in it, regardless of how much you bleed the brakes at the wheels. Second, when you bled the brakes, after changing the calipers and master cyl., did you also bleed the proportioning valve? Sometimes air can get trapped in the valve, and its almost impossible to get it out bleeding just the wheels. And lastly, when the brake light comes on, does the abs light also come on with it? Air can also get trapped in the abs control module too.
Posted on Aug 11, 2009
crawl underneath the front and look at the caliper if it has a duel piston caliper you will see 2 circles about 3 inches across and if it is a single piston caliper it will only have one of these circles in the middle this iswhere the pistons are. yes those pads are suitable. As for bleeding the brakes you need to start at the passengers side rear wheel and bleed it first then go to the drivers side rear wheel then go to the passengers side front wheel and then finally the drivers side front wheel. If you are only replacing the brake pads and shoes then you don't need to bleed the brakes. If you are bleeding the brakes then you will want to be sure to top up the brake fluid as you are doing thebleeding process as if you don't you will end up having to start all over again. as for special tools you may need a 3/8 hex bit and a 8 inch " C " clamp to compress the calipers after you remove the brake pads. If you are replacing the rotors you may require a special socket fo dis-assebleing and re-assembly of the front hubs.
Posted on Oct 09, 2008
Why were the brake lines replaced?
Sounds like the mastercylinder may have run dry. You have to bench bleed the master and then DO NOT allow fluid to run low, while bleeding brakes...
if master cylinder runs low on fluid and air gets in, almost impossible to bleed with out releasing the lines and bleed master it self.
Posted on Sep 20, 2009
On the backside of the brake backing plate there is a bleeder valve that looks more like a grease fitting. Someone needs to be in the vehicle with motor running, pump the brake twice and hold pedal down on the third pump while another person takes a small wrench or socket and loosens the bleeder valve, if no fluid comes out or it spurts, tighten the valve and repeat process until nothing but fluid comes out, do the same for the other wheel, keeping check on the fluid level in the master cylinder at the booster ( if equipped)
Posted on Jul 14, 2010
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