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Cars & Trucks Master
Re: Front heater only blows cold,new rad fitted just...
The heater matrix is behind the dash and requires it to be removed which is about 3/4 hours work ,now you havent stated the model or make of vehicle but reading this question 3 times now i suspect that the controls are connected correctly and the reason the engine is increasing in RPM is because it thinks the AC has been turned on so i would sugest you cut your losses and take it to a dealer as this sort of thing needs a dealer fitter who only works on one make of vehicle all day long and will do it with one hand tied behind their back whilst watching the secretary in the office all at the same time unlike your truely who works on anything and everything from a renault in the morning to somebodys motor bike in the afternnon and then the neighbours tractor so obviously it would take me ages to work out but a dealer fitter ?? minutes
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Hi Sharon, I'm glad to help. Your 2000 year doesn't have a motor for the temp door. It operated by a cable running from the control head to the temp door and you work it manually. If you can't control the temperature from hot to cold, sometimes the cable come off or breaks. Here how you can see the cable to see if its working. Remove the radio and right behind it you will see the cable attached to the door, while watching it move the temp lever from hot to cold and watch it. If it is moving then its most likely out of ajustment. If it is not moving, then you'll need a new cable. Just in case it is moving, I'm attaching the instruction on how to adjust it below. Hope this helps and have an awesome day Sharon!
TEMPERATURE CONTROL CABLE
Any time the heater-A/C control or the temperature control cable are removed and/or replaced, the following procedure must be performed.
The temperature control cable housing and core must be installed at both the heater-A/C control and the heater-A/C housing ends, and the heater-A/C control must be installed in the instrument panel. See Heater-A/C Control and Temperature Control Cable in the Removal and Installation section of this group for the procedures.
Rotate the temperature control knob on the heater-A/C control so that the knob pointer is in the 12 o'clock position.
Pull the temperature control knob straight out from the heater-A/C control base until the perimeter of the knob (not the knob pointer) protrudes about 6 millimeters (0.25 inch) from the face of the control base.
Rotate the temperature control knob to the 1 o'clock position. Push in on the knob slightly and continue rotating the knob to its full clockwise stop. The knob pointer should be aimed at a position about 8 millimeters (0.315 inch) beyond the end of the graduated red strobe temperature control graphic on the face of the heater-A/C control base. If the knob is not pointed to the correct position, go back to Step 2 and repeat the adjustment procedure.
Rotate the temperature control knob counterclockwise until the knob pointer is in the 12 o'clock position again.
Push the temperature control knob straight in towards the heater-A/C control base until the perimeter of the knob (not the knob pointer) is flush with the face of the heater-A/C control base.
Rotate the knob to its full clockwise stop again. The knob pointer should be aimed at the end of the graduated red strobe temperature control graphic on the face of the heater-A/C control base. If OK, go to Step 8. If not OK, go back to Step 2.
Rotate the knob to its full counterclockwise stop and release the knob. If the knob springs back from the counterclockwise stop, the self-adjuster clip that secures the temperature control cable to the blend-air door lever is improperly installed. See Temperature Control Cable in the Removal and Installation section of this group for the procedures. If the knob does not spring back, the temperature control cable adjustment is complete.
Be sure that cooling system has been bled properly after . Start engine while cold with cap off, and heater on. Let engine get up to normal operating temperature and allow thermostat to open and close 2 or 3 times and rev engine slightly once in a while for 5 seconds or so to help improve flow. If you have rad where you can actually look in and see flow, that's better otherwise watch coolant return bottle and temperature gauge. Feel if any difference at heater as you bleed air out. Once you start to feel better /good heat, then it should be bled properly, then top up coolant return bottle and re-install cap properly. Let me know if that helps.
Leave rad cap off, and start engine from cold, top up coolant and make sure your heater is on, and run engine until operating temperature reached, and make sure you allow it to run for a while after reaching operating temperature. Rev engine slightly for 5 seconds or so, every once in a while to help bleed air out. Check heater as your doing this and you should feel warm air. Once heater is working good, top up coolant in rad & bottle if you have access to both, then put all caps back on, and you should be o.k. Just be sure to check coolant level in bottle from time to time, and top up if necessary.
Did you run engine from cold, with heater on when you refilled the system? Try again, rad cap off, with heater on, and let engine get up to operating temperature, make sure you have good flow through rad ,leave cap off, until rad fan comes on to cool returning coolant to rad at least twice. Give engine a little extra rev, for 5 seconds or so, every once in a while to make sure flow getting through heater core, and add coolant as necessary. See if that helps, as it may just be an airlock in system. If your cooling system has any bleed screws incorporated, crack them once in a while as well.
Start vehicle when cold. remove rad cap, start engine & put heater on (not defrost) and let it run for a while & top up rad as coolant goes down, to about an inch or 2 from top of rad. If you have electric rad fans, watch temperature gauge and around normal operating temperature or slightly above, they should come on for a minute or 2 then shut off. If not electric fans, just watch in top of rad for increased flow through rad, indicating thermostat has opened & coolant is circulating. Rev engine slightly every once in a while for 5 or 10 seconds just to help increase flow etc to help assist bleeding air out faster. Watch for increased flow in rad, 2 or 3 times at least, or listen for fan to go on & off 2 or 3 times before putting rad cap back on. As your doing this, keep topping up rad if it needs it. Make sure rad cap on all the way, check coolant return bottle level & add to mark if required, and you should be good to go. One of the things people forget to do the most, is to turn heater on while doing this, and that is usually what causes a lot of airlocks in the system, so don't forget that step.
Start it cold with rad cap off, and heater on high heat, and let it run until you see increased flow in radiator, indicating thermostat opened & engine reached operating temperature. Rev engine slightly every once in a while and hold it there for 10-20 seconds, just to help purge air better/faster. Watch rad flow again, and wait until you see increased flow 3 or 4 times. Then top up coolant in rad to an inch or 2 from top of rad, and put cap back on. Top up return bottle to appropriate level on bottle & then try it again. If it still heats up, get back to me. Does it overheat at all times? Rad fan is good i take it?
Run engine from cool, with rad cap off & heater on heat (not AC) and watch for circulation through rad when engine reaches normal operating temperature. Rev engine slightly from time to time for a couple of seconds, to increase flow & help bleed air out of system. Let it run for a while, and watch for increased flow in rad 2 or 3 times. Probably see air bubbles at same time.Hot coolant from engine comes in top, and back out bottom to engine after cooling in rad. The increased flow in rad ,indicates thermostat is opening & circulating cooler liquid back into engine. After 2 or 3 times put cap back on & fill return bottle only to line specified as warm/hot engine level.
Did you let engine run from cold after refill, with rad cap off & heater on (not defrost) until the engine reached operating temperature and rad fan came on a few times? If not, try it, you may just have an air lock, provided your sure thermostat is correct one & back in correct way. Rev engine slightly every once in a while and hold it there for approx 10-20 seconds to help burp the air out & increase circulation to heater.