Question about 2004 GMC Envoy

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Noise like something is dragging when in reverse coming from front end??

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Check your brake pads. also with the hood open brakes on ! look at the motor when you stick it in gear both forward and reverse,give it a little gas if it moves or rocks more than a inch or so you have a broken motor mount .. jay the pool motor repair guy florida .. did you vote for your favorite fixya guy ?

Posted on Feb 09, 2012

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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1 Answer

Why is my rear end kicking up when I put it in reverse only on my 90 dodge 2wd


Hi Shawn:
It is because of the torque being transferred from the wheels through to the frame.
When you put it in forward ans stand on the gas, the front end comes up. Look at a drag racer's wheel stand.
Put it in reverse, and the opposite happens. The back wants to come up.
HINT!!!!
If the rear shock absorbers are worn out, the kick up will be way more noticeable.
Cheers, and Happy Drag Racing!

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My 2000 ford focus car was stuck in snow and when I finally got out of the snow bank, my car now has something hanging from the front end and it is making a really loud noise. It is having trouble exc


This is probably just a splash guard that came loose under the car and hitting or dragging. Take a look under for something big and plastic that looks out of place around the wheel wells and under the bumper.

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Why does my tacoma 2005 makes a knoking noise goin front fordwar to reverse


Depending on where the noise is coming from you may want to start with checking motor and transmission mounts. Check u-joints for play and front end bushings. The torque just going from forward to reverse even with the brakes held is enough to cause movement from worn parts.

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Dragging feeling in rear, grinding noise


I NEED TO KNOW WHICH JOINTS U REPLACED EXACTLY AND WHEN.IS THET NOISE COMING WITH THE STEERING WHEEL TURNED ALL THE WAY TO ONE DIRECTION?DO U FEEL LIKE SOMETHING IS KICKING THE CAR?IF SO LET ME KNOW

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I have a 93 Ford Explorer 4x4 sometimes while starting to drive in 2 wheel drive there is a lot of clunking noise coming from the front end and the only way to stop it is to go in reverse for about 10...


It sounds like your transfer case needs servicing. Drain the fluid & check for metal particles. Some of the older trucks required reversing to disengage the 4x4

Jan 10, 2011 | Ford Explorer Cars & Trucks

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Wierd noise from the front end. sounds like a chain dragging or something. now the 4 wheel drive seems to be not working. any ideas?


Not sure about the 4wheel drive. But the weird sound could be your sway bar end links. Those tend to make a ton of noise when bad. To check: grab a hold of it and move it around, shouldn't have much play at all. If there is play in there replace with a greasable one like Moog. All the other front end noise would be bushings, and would sound nothing like the sound you're experiencing.

Bad end links are a very very common problem for our TB's.

Dec 03, 2010 | 2004 Chevrolet TrailBlazer

1 Answer

STeering wheel is loose and noisy while steering. Sounds like something broke inside.


This might help to understand the steering linkage: REMOVAL & INSTALLATION Fig. 1: Steering linkage used on the Bronco and 4-wheel drive F-150 84928067.gif
Fig. 2: Steering linkage used on the 4-wheel drive F-350 84928070.gif
Fig. 3: Steering linkage used on F-Super Duty chassis/cab 84928071.gif
Pitman Arm EXCEPT F-SUPER DUTY STRIPPED CHASSIS AND MOTOR HOME CHASSIS
  1. Place the wheels in a straight-ahead position.
  2. Disconnect the drag link at the Pitman arm. You'll need a puller such as a tie rod end remover.
  3. Remove the Pitman arm-to-gear nut and washer.
  4. Matchmark the Pitman arm and gear housing for installation purposes.
  5. Using a 2-jawed puller, remove the Pitman arm from the gear.
  6. Installation is the reverse of removal. Align the matchmarks when installing the Pitman arm. Tighten the Pitman arm nut to 170-230 ft. lbs. (230-312 Nm); torque the drag link ball stud nut to 50-75 ft. lbs. (68-102 Nm), advancing the nut to align the cotter pin hole. Never back off the nut to align the hole.
F-SUPER DUTY STRIPPED CHASSIS MOTOR HOME CHASSIS
  1. Matchmark the Pitman arm and sector shaft.
  2. Disconnect the drag link from the Pitman arm.
  3. Remove the bolt and nut securing the Pitman arm to the sector shaft.
  4. Using a 2-jawed gear puller, remove the Pitman arm from the sector shaft. To install:
  5. Aligning the matchmarks, slide the Pitman arm onto the sector shaft. If the arm won't slide on easily, use a cold chisel to spread the separation. NEVER HAMMER THE ARM ONTO THE SHAFT! Hammering on the arm will damage the steering gear!
  6. Install the nut and bolt. Tighten the nut to 220-300 ft. lbs. (298-407 Nm).
  7. Connect the drag link.
Tie Rod and Drag Link EXCEPT RUBBERIZED BALL SOCKET LINKAGE
  1. Place the wheels in a straight-ahead position.
  2. Remove the cotter pins and rust from the drag link and tie rod ball studs.
  3. Remove the drag link ball studs from the right-hand spindle and Pitman arm.
  4. Remove the tie rod ball studs from the left-hand spindle and drag link.
  5. Installation is the reverse of removal. Seat the studs in the tapered hole before tightening the nuts. This will avoid wrap-up of the rubber grommets during tightening of the nuts. Tighten the nuts to 70 ft. lbs. (95 Nm). Always use new cotter pins.
  6. Have the front end alignment checked.
RUBBERIZED BALL SOCKET LINKAGE
  1. Raise and support the front end on jackstands.
  2. Place the wheels in the straight-ahead position.
  3. Remove the nuts connecting the drag link ball studs to the connecting rod and Pitman arm.
  4. Disconnect the drag link using a tie rod end remover.
  5. Loosen the bolts on the adjuster clamp. Count the number of turns it take to remove the drag link from the adjuster. To install:
  6. Installation is the reverse of the removal procedure. Install the drag link with the same number of turns it took to remove it. Make certain that the wheels remain in the straight-ahead position during installation. Seat the studs in the tapered hole before tightening the nuts. This will avoid wrap-up of the rubber grommets during tightening of the nuts. Tighten the adjuster clamp nuts to 40 ft. lbs. (54 Nm). Tighten the ball stud nuts to 75 ft. lbs. (102 Nm).
  7. Have the front end alignment checked.
Connecting Rod RUBBERIZED BALL SOCKET LINKAGE
  1. Raise and support the front end on jackstands.
  2. Place the wheels in the straight-ahead position.
  3. Disconnect the connecting rod from the drag link by removing the nut and separating the two with a tie rod end remover.
  4. Loosen the bolts on the adjusting sleeve clamps. Count the number of turns it takes to remove the connecting rod from the connecting rod from the adjuster sleeve and remove the rod.
  5. Installation is the reverse of removal. Install the connecting rod the exact number of turns noted during removal. Tighten the tie rod nuts to 40 ft. lbs. (54 Nm); the ball stud nut to 75 ft. lbs. (102 Nm).
  6. Have the front end alignment checked.
Tie Rod Ends RUBBERIZED BALL SOCKET LINKAGE Fig. 4: Remove the cotter pin from the castellated nut at the ball stud 88288p02.jpg
Fig. 5: Remove the nut from the ball stud 88288p03.jpg
Fig. 6: Use a tie rod end puller tool to remove the ball stud from the Pitman arm 88288p04.jpg
Fig. 7: Liquid correction fluid makes excellent paint to mark the threads of the tie rod end 88288p05.jpg
Fig. 8: For a more accurate reinstallation, you may measure the tie rod end prior to removal 88288p06.jpg
Fig. 9: After having loosened the nut, unscrew and remove the tie rod end 88288p07.jpg
  1. Raise and support the front end on jackstands.
  2. Place the wheels in a straight-ahead position.
  3. Remove the ball stud from the Pitman arm using a tie rod end remover. NOTE: Optional: paint a mark or measure the length of the tie rod end threads to ease reinstallation in as close to the original position as possible.
  4. Loosen the nuts on the adjusting sleeve clamp. Remove the ball stud from the adjuster, or the adjuster from the tie rod. Count the number of turns it takes to remove the sleeve from the tie rod or ball stud from the sleeve. To install:
  5. Install the sleeve on the tie rod, or the ball in the sleeve the same number of turns noted during removal. Make sure that the adjuster clamps are in the correct position, illustrated, and torque the clamp bolts to 40 ft. lbs. (54 Nm).
  6. Keep the wheels facing straight-ahead and install the ball studs. Tighten the nuts to 75 ft. lbs. (102 Nm). Use new cotter pins.
  7. Install the drag link and connecting rod.
  8. Have the front end alignment checked.
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Sep 18, 2010 | 1996 Ford F150 Regular Cab

1 Answer

Moaning noise reversing while turning wheel to left


The moan is caused by the brakes and the vibration is due to a defective part on the front end a tie rod end or drag link. If you want more information I would be glad to assist but have to run to work so post here and I will give it a shot tonight when I get home.

Sep 30, 2009 | 1995 Lincoln Continental

1 Answer

Grinding noise in front end when coming to a stop,


could be a stone stuck in one of the calipers , sometimes driving in reverse can clear the stone.

Jun 26, 2009 | 2002 Pontiac Grand Am

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