yep this is a two man job, onece you get air in the lines is better to do all four, my has abs and i was able to do it, but next time don't take anylines lose just turn the piston clockwise and you should be able to push it in.
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION If
you are not thoroughly familiar with the procedures involved in brake
replacement, only disassemble and assemble one side at a time, leaving
the other wheel intact as a reference. 1983-88 Vehicles See Figures 1, 2 and 3
Raise and safely support the rear of the vehicle with jackstands.
Remove the tire and wheel assembly.
Remove the brake drum, as outlined earlier in this section.
Place Brake Cylinder Clamp D81L-1103-B or equivalent, over the ends of the brake cylinder.
CAUTIONBe careful that the springs do not slip off the tool during removal, as they could cause personal injury.
the shoe-to-anchor springs, using Brake Shoe R and R Spring BT-11, or
equivalent, then unhook the cable eye from the anchor pin.
1: Place the brake clamp tool over the ends of the wheel cylinder, then
remove the shoe-to-anchor springs using the correct tool
Remove the shoe guide (anchor pin) plate.
Remove the shoe hold-down springs, shoes, adjusting screws, pivot nut, socket and automatic adjustment parts.
Remove the parking brake link, spring and retainer. Disconnect the parking brake cable from the parking brake lever.
removing the secondary brake shoe, disassembly the parking brake lever
from the shoe by removing the retaining clip and spring washer.
Fig. 2: View of the drum brake components-1983-88 9-inch brake shownFig. 3: View of the drum brake components-1983-88 10-inch brake shownTo install:
brake cable must be connected to the secondary brake shoe before the
shoe is installed on the backing plate. To do this, first transfer the
parking brake lever from the old secondary shoe to the new one. This is
accomplished by spreading the bottom of the horseshoe clip and
disengaging the lever. Position the lever on the new secondary shoe and
install the spring washer and the horseshoe clip. Close the bottom of
the clip after installing it. Grasp the metal tip of the parking brake
cable with a pair of pliers. Position a pair of side cutter pliers on
the end of the cable coil spring, and using the plier as a fulcrum,
pull the coil spring back with the side cutters. Position the cable in
the parking brake lever.
Apply a light coating of high
temperature grease to the brake shoe contact points on the backing
plate. Position the primary brake shoe on the front of the backing
plate and install the hold-down spring and washer over the mounting
pin. Install the secondary shoe on the rear of the backing plate.
Install the parking brake link between the notch in the primary brake shoe and the notch in the parking brake lever.
Install the automatic adjuster cable loop end on the anchor pin. Make sure the crimped side of the loop faces the backing plate.
the return spring in the primary brake shoe and, using the tapered end
of the brake spring service tool, slide the top of the spring onto the
CAUTIONBe careful to make sure that the spring does not slip off the tool during installation, as it could cause injury.
the automatic adjuster cable guide in the secondary brake shoe, making
sure the flared hole in the cable guide is inside the hole in the brake
shoe. Fit the cable into the groove in the top of the cable guide.
the secondary shoe return spring through the hole in the cable guide
and the brake shoe. Using the brake spring tool, slide the top of the
spring onto the anchor pin.
Clean the threads on the adjusting
screw and apply a light coating of high temperature grease to the
threads. Screw the adjuster closed, then open it 1/2 turn.
the adjusting screw between the brake shoes with the star wheel nearest
to the secondary shoe. Make sure the star wheel is in a position that
is accessible from the adjusting slot in the backing plate.
Install the short hooked end of the automatic adjuster spring in the proper hole in the primary brake shoe.
the hooked end of the automatic adjuster cable and the free end of the
automatic adjuster spring in the slot in the top of the automatic
Pull the automatic adjuster lever (the lever
will pull the cable and spring with it) downward and to the left and
engage the pivot hook of the lever in the hole in the secondary brake
Check the entire brake assembly to make sure that
everything is installed properly. Make sure that the shoes engage the
wheel cylinder properly and are flush on the anchor pin. Make sure that
the automatic adjuster cable is flush on the anchor pin and in the slot
on the back of the cable guide. Make sure that the adjusting lever
rests on the adjusting screw star wheel. Pull upward on the adjusting
cable until the adjusting lever is free of the star wheel, then release
the cable. The adjusting lever should snap back into place on the
adjusting screw star wheel and turn the wheel one tooth.
Expand the brake adjusting screw until the brake drum will just fit over the brake shoes.
Install the brake drum and wheel and tire assembly, then adjust the brakes.
Does sound like you need a new master cylinder. On a 2000 you wont need to back bleed. You will just need to follow the instruction and bleed the master and all four points. you will probably need to bleed the ABS block and proportioning valve but only if they have bleeders on them.
try disconnecting the front line, have someone else then step on the brake pedal and hold it down while you re-install the line. If that doesn't do it, you probably did get a defective master cylinder.
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There are many things other than brake lines that can cause braking loss. Investigation will reveal the issue. First, check fluid level in the Master Cylinder. If the level is normal, you don't have any broken lines/leaks. If the fluid is full and you have no brake pedal/braking power, chances are the Master Cylinder itself has failed. There are o-rings internal to the M/C that can fail, and when this happens, you will lose pressure to wheel cylinders/calipers and, as a result, lose your brakes.
If the fluid has leaked out, then you need to find out fro where. This is not too difficult normally. Fill the M/C with fluid and have someone press the brake pedal while observing the underside of the vehicle. You should see fluid dripping from somewhere, often near one of the wheels. You can have a leaking caliper/wheel cylinder, brake hose, or metal brake line. Once you determine what part has failed, you can purchase and replace the defective part. Brake calipers, wheel cylinders, and hoses are fairly simple to replace. Brake lines are more difficult, as they require shaping, cutting, and the creation of couplings. After repairs are done, the brake system must be refilled and all air bled from the system or braking will not be satisfactory.
Does the car have ABS ? And does it have an equalizer block for the 4 wheels ? It sounds like the ABS has been affected, or there is an equalizer block that is stuck on the front wheels only. Can you open the bleeder or the rear line on the master cyl and get fluid to come out by depressing the pedal ?
It's a sealed system, so it's got to be going somewhere, leaking somewhere (or boiling off from severe braking operations over and over). Since you likely haven't experienced extreme braking, it must be leaking somewhere.
You will have to trace all your brake lines from the master cylinder to each wheel to check for any sign of leaking. Front calipers are easy to spot leaks when they leak. If you have drum brakes on the rear, you may need to pull off the drum to check the wheel brake cylinders. Peel back the rubber boot on each end of the wheel cylinder and look for any fluid leaks there. Another place to check is at the back of the master cylinder. If a seal is bad there, it has been known to leak fluid inside the car, under the dash. Feel around the carpet under and behind the brake pedal for any wetness. If you find brake fluid there, you will need the master cylinder replaced or rebuilt. Hope you find the problem. Don't forget to check the ABS system and brake lines, too.
well if you are losing fluid you definatly have a leak as brake fluid is not a "topping off fluid". you could have a leaking master cylinder either externaly which can be seen on brake booster or it can be leaking into the brake booster filling it with fluid. other than that you also may be leaking from your brake hoses(one hose at each wheel), calipers(front wheels and rear if all wheel disc brakes), wheel cylinders (if you have rear drum brakes), or metal brake lines due to rust and corrosoin (run from master cylinder to each brake hose). please rate 4 thumbs if helpful.
Are you losing any Brake Fluid? Is it visible anywhere at the four wheels? Is it visible anywhere else?
The Master Cylinder may be defective. When you bled the Brakes did you maintain proper Brake Fluid Level in the Master Cylinder? If you didn't: and air entered into the Master Cylinder there maybe air within in the system in the Master Cylinder. You can bleed the Master Cylinder by removing the brake lines, adding more fluid, pumping the brakes, bleeding the air out of the system.
Are you losing Brake Fluid and can't find a noticeable leak? Then there is a good posibility that the rear seal in the Master Cylinder is leaking and the Fluid is going into the Brake Booster - which is the large wheel shaped drum located on the fire wall. In this case both the Brake Booster and the Master Cylinder will have to be removed and replaced. The Booster contains seals that Brake Fluid is very caustic to and will ruin these seals- causing future failures.
If no Brake Fluid is lost, no leak found: Check the Brake Booster Vacuum Advance. This should be connected to the outside of the Booster, attached to a hose, with the hose going to the engine. Check to see if this is working properly. Replace if needed.
1. What is the Brake Fluid Level?
2. Are you losing any Brake fluid at all? Are there any puddles or noticeable wetness on the ground or on the tires/wheels? With vehicle parked, the reservoir filled (overfilled), and engine running: pump the brakes and check on the ground and back sides (inside portions) of the wheels. Look for any brake fluid leaks.
3. Leaks from Calipers usually means a leak from the caliper piston. The rubber seals will be wet.
Leaks from Drums usually means a leak from the wheel cylinder.
4. In any case of leaks from the wheels - replace the calliper OR wheel cylinder.
For caliper leaks: change the brake pads, and clean the rotors with brake cleaner.
For drum leaks: clean the drum and brake hardware with brake cleaner, and replace the shoes.
5. If no leak is detected from the wheel area's: check under the Master Cylinder for wetness indicating a possible leak.
6. If no leak can be found: you MAY have a rear seal leak in the Master Cylinder which is pumping Brake Fluid into the Brake Booster (that large disk looking thing attached to the fire wall, attached to the Master Cylinder in front).
a. Use a large drip/catch pan under the Van in the area on the Master Cylinder.
b. Disconnect the brake lines from the Master Cylinder using a flair wrench.
c. Remove the two nuts (12 or 13mm?) attaching the Master Cylinder to the Brake Booster. If you have been using a lot of fluid, and have found no leaks, here is a good possibilty that all that brake fluid has collected in the Booster; so when you detach the Master Cylinder from the Brake Booster, all that fluid will come rushing out!
7. If there is Brake Fluid inside the Brake Booster: there is no cleaning that out. Brake Fluid is very caustic to the seals inside the Booster and should be replaced.
8. Of course the Master Cylinder will also have to be replaced.
9. After replacing the Master Cylinder/Brake Booster - make sure you get all that spilled brake fluid off the engine compartment area parts! I use a brake cleaner, then mild soap and then water to rinse. Clean any Brake Fluid off Paint imediatley as it will quickly dissolves finishes and paint.
10. If no leak is detected and the Booster is clear, there may be problems with the Booster One-Way Valve. This is attached to the outside of the Booster and has a hose from an "advance" connected to it. This maybe malfunctioning where you are losing power. Replace this first before deciding to replace the whole booster (in cases of NON-LEAKS ONLY). If that did not work, there may be inner seals inside the Booster that have failed. That means a new Booster.
11. In any of the above cases: Make sure you bleed the Master Cylinder correctly and bleed the brakes (at each affected wheel) correctly. Any air in the brake lines will decrease your braking proficiency or could result in brake failure.
Let me know if this helped or if you have any additional information or questions. Feel free to contact me at FixYa.com!
if your fluid leak is around brake caliper or wheel cylinder fluid will leak on brake drum or rotor.causing wheel slippage.which will cause traction light to come on.check all four wheels brake calipers and wheel cylinders.look for signs of leaking around the seal area.
no they are inverted flare fittings no seals check all lines and calipers/wheel cylinders if all are dry remove the vacuum hose from the booster if there is brake fluid in the hose the master cylinder is bad
SOUND LIKE LOW OR NO BRAKE FLUID.IN MASTER CYLINDER.IF BRAKE FLUID LOW CHECK FOR LEAKING WHEEL CALIPERS / LEAKING WHEEL CYLINDERS OR LEAKING.BRAKE HOSES AND BRAKE LINES.IF ALL IS GOOD YOUR MASTER CYLINDER IS FAULTY.