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yep this is a two man job, onece you get air in the lines is better to do all four, my has abs and i was able to do it, but next time don't take anylines lose just turn the piston clockwise and you should be able to push it in.
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION If
you are not thoroughly familiar with the procedures involved in brake
replacement, only disassemble and assemble one side at a time, leaving
the other wheel intact as a reference. 1983-88 Vehicles See Figures 1, 2 and 3
Raise and safely support the rear of the vehicle with jackstands.
Remove the tire and wheel assembly.
Remove the brake drum, as outlined earlier in this section.
Place Brake Cylinder Clamp D81L-1103-B or equivalent, over the ends of the brake cylinder.
CAUTIONBe careful that the springs do not slip off the tool during removal, as they could cause personal injury.
the shoe-to-anchor springs, using Brake Shoe R and R Spring BT-11, or
equivalent, then unhook the cable eye from the anchor pin.
1: Place the brake clamp tool over the ends of the wheel cylinder, then
remove the shoe-to-anchor springs using the correct tool
Remove the shoe guide (anchor pin) plate.
Remove the shoe hold-down springs, shoes, adjusting screws, pivot nut, socket and automatic adjustment parts.
Remove the parking brake link, spring and retainer. Disconnect the parking brake cable from the parking brake lever.
removing the secondary brake shoe, disassembly the parking brake lever
from the shoe by removing the retaining clip and spring washer.
Fig. 2: View of the drum brake components-1983-88 9-inch brake shownFig. 3: View of the drum brake components-1983-88 10-inch brake shownTo install:
brake cable must be connected to the secondary brake shoe before the
shoe is installed on the backing plate. To do this, first transfer the
parking brake lever from the old secondary shoe to the new one. This is
accomplished by spreading the bottom of the horseshoe clip and
disengaging the lever. Position the lever on the new secondary shoe and
install the spring washer and the horseshoe clip. Close the bottom of
the clip after installing it. Grasp the metal tip of the parking brake
cable with a pair of pliers. Position a pair of side cutter pliers on
the end of the cable coil spring, and using the plier as a fulcrum,
pull the coil spring back with the side cutters. Position the cable in
the parking brake lever.
Apply a light coating of high
temperature grease to the brake shoe contact points on the backing
plate. Position the primary brake shoe on the front of the backing
plate and install the hold-down spring and washer over the mounting
pin. Install the secondary shoe on the rear of the backing plate.
Install the parking brake link between the notch in the primary brake shoe and the notch in the parking brake lever.
Install the automatic adjuster cable loop end on the anchor pin. Make sure the crimped side of the loop faces the backing plate.
the return spring in the primary brake shoe and, using the tapered end
of the brake spring service tool, slide the top of the spring onto the
CAUTIONBe careful to make sure that the spring does not slip off the tool during installation, as it could cause injury.
the automatic adjuster cable guide in the secondary brake shoe, making
sure the flared hole in the cable guide is inside the hole in the brake
shoe. Fit the cable into the groove in the top of the cable guide.
the secondary shoe return spring through the hole in the cable guide
and the brake shoe. Using the brake spring tool, slide the top of the
spring onto the anchor pin.
Clean the threads on the adjusting
screw and apply a light coating of high temperature grease to the
threads. Screw the adjuster closed, then open it 1/2 turn.
the adjusting screw between the brake shoes with the star wheel nearest
to the secondary shoe. Make sure the star wheel is in a position that
is accessible from the adjusting slot in the backing plate.
Install the short hooked end of the automatic adjuster spring in the proper hole in the primary brake shoe.
the hooked end of the automatic adjuster cable and the free end of the
automatic adjuster spring in the slot in the top of the automatic
Pull the automatic adjuster lever (the lever
will pull the cable and spring with it) downward and to the left and
engage the pivot hook of the lever in the hole in the secondary brake
Check the entire brake assembly to make sure that
everything is installed properly. Make sure that the shoes engage the
wheel cylinder properly and are flush on the anchor pin. Make sure that
the automatic adjuster cable is flush on the anchor pin and in the slot
on the back of the cable guide. Make sure that the adjusting lever
rests on the adjusting screw star wheel. Pull upward on the adjusting
cable until the adjusting lever is free of the star wheel, then release
the cable. The adjusting lever should snap back into place on the
adjusting screw star wheel and turn the wheel one tooth.
Expand the brake adjusting screw until the brake drum will just fit over the brake shoes.
Install the brake drum and wheel and tire assembly, then adjust the brakes.
Does sound like you need a new master cylinder. On a 2000 you wont need to back bleed. You will just need to follow the instruction and bleed the master and all four points. you will probably need to bleed the ABS block and proportioning valve but only if they have bleeders on them.
try disconnecting the front line, have someone else then step on the brake pedal and hold it down while you re-install the line. If that doesn't do it, you probably did get a defective master cylinder.
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There are many things other than brake lines that can cause braking loss. Investigation will reveal the issue. First, check fluid level in the Master Cylinder. If the level is normal, you don't have any broken lines/leaks. If the fluid is full and you have no brake pedal/braking power, chances are the Master Cylinder itself has failed. There are o-rings internal to the M/C that can fail, and when this happens, you will lose pressure to wheel cylinders/calipers and, as a result, lose your brakes.
If the fluid has leaked out, then you need to find out fro where. This is not too difficult normally. Fill the M/C with fluid and have someone press the brake pedal while observing the underside of the vehicle. You should see fluid dripping from somewhere, often near one of the wheels. You can have a leaking caliper/wheel cylinder, brake hose, or metal brake line. Once you determine what part has failed, you can purchase and replace the defective part. Brake calipers, wheel cylinders, and hoses are fairly simple to replace. Brake lines are more difficult, as they require shaping, cutting, and the creation of couplings. After repairs are done, the brake system must be refilled and all air bled from the system or braking will not be satisfactory.
Does the car have ABS ? And does it have an equalizer block for the 4 wheels ? It sounds like the ABS has been affected, or there is an equalizer block that is stuck on the front wheels only. Can you open the bleeder or the rear line on the master cyl and get fluid to come out by depressing the pedal ?
It's a sealed system, so it's got to be going somewhere, leaking somewhere (or boiling off from severe braking operations over and over). Since you likely haven't experienced extreme braking, it must be leaking somewhere.
You will have to trace all your brake lines from the master cylinder to each wheel to check for any sign of leaking. Front calipers are easy to spot leaks when they leak. If you have drum brakes on the rear, you may need to pull off the drum to check the wheel brake cylinders. Peel back the rubber boot on each end of the wheel cylinder and look for any fluid leaks there. Another place to check is at the back of the master cylinder. If a seal is bad there, it has been known to leak fluid inside the car, under the dash. Feel around the carpet under and behind the brake pedal for any wetness. If you find brake fluid there, you will need the master cylinder replaced or rebuilt. Hope you find the problem. Don't forget to check the ABS system and brake lines, too.
check all brake lines and wheel cylinders for leakage. if no leaks its probably the master cylinder. symtoms are-- pedal will sink to floor when stopping or not. or master cylinder leaks from behind "it", and runs down brake booster. if booster goes bad the pedal will be very hard! good-day !
by stating that your pedal sinks to the floor, you leave 3 options open
1.) the master cylinder seal is bypassing allowing the fluid to bleed by the proper correction is to rebuild the master cylinder.
2. One of your drum brakes has a wheel cylinder that has failed causing a noticable behind the tire leak (most common) correction is to replace all brake hardware and wheel cylinder.
3. One of the brake lines is cracked,broken, inspect for leaks and replace with new line.
4. notice on disc brakes if a brake caliper fails (part that squeezes brake pads to rotor) you will have the same symptoms of a broken wheel cylinder, this would of gradually occured feeling a heavy pedal or pulsation.
well if you are losing fluid you definatly have a leak as brake fluid is not a "topping off fluid". you could have a leaking master cylinder either externaly which can be seen on brake booster or it can be leaking into the brake booster filling it with fluid. other than that you also may be leaking from your brake hoses(one hose at each wheel), calipers(front wheels and rear if all wheel disc brakes), wheel cylinders (if you have rear drum brakes), or metal brake lines due to rust and corrosoin (run from master cylinder to each brake hose). please rate 4 thumbs if helpful.
CLUTCH AND MASTER CYLINDER SHARE THE SAME RESERVOIR YOU CHECK LEVEL IN THE MASTER CYLINDER.ADD BRAKE FLUID TO THE MAX LINE DONT OVER FILL.IF MASTER CYLINDER RESERVOIR IS EMPTY.CHECK FOR FLUID LEAKS AT CLUTCH LINES AND CONNECTIONS AT CLUTCH RELEASE CYLINDER AND CHECK BRAKE LINES - CALIPERS - WHEEL CYLINDERS AND BRAKE BOOSTER.FIX LEAKS AND BLEED BRAKE AND CLUTCH SYSTEM.
bad master cylinder would be my first guess. also check if the fluid reservoir is empty, check if the rear wheel cylinder leaking. check if the front calipers are leaking also check the bleeder valves on the calipers and rear wheel cylinders to make sure they are not leaking. if everything is looking good top off brake fluid level and bleed the brakes.
Are you losing any Brake Fluid? Is it visible anywhere at the four wheels? Is it visible anywhere else?
The Master Cylinder may be defective. When you bled the Brakes did you maintain proper Brake Fluid Level in the Master Cylinder? If you didn't: and air entered into the Master Cylinder there maybe air within in the system in the Master Cylinder. You can bleed the Master Cylinder by removing the brake lines, adding more fluid, pumping the brakes, bleeding the air out of the system.
Are you losing Brake Fluid and can't find a noticeable leak? Then there is a good posibility that the rear seal in the Master Cylinder is leaking and the Fluid is going into the Brake Booster - which is the large wheel shaped drum located on the fire wall. In this case both the Brake Booster and the Master Cylinder will have to be removed and replaced. The Booster contains seals that Brake Fluid is very caustic to and will ruin these seals- causing future failures.
If no Brake Fluid is lost, no leak found: Check the Brake Booster Vacuum Advance. This should be connected to the outside of the Booster, attached to a hose, with the hose going to the engine. Check to see if this is working properly. Replace if needed.